intermittent starter the starter/headlight switch is fading

[Don R]

The 1978 20 year sleeper has begun to crank intermittently when starting. It will cut-out, and then if I let off the button and push again it will crank and start. It's not ignition, just the starter motor cutting out. I'm thinking maybe the brushes are worn. I had a GL starter rebuilt once but it was my 79 and that shop recently closed.
I remember removing the exhaust pipe and the rear stud on the 79, I'll do a search on starter removal. It's got 61,000 miles now. Ideas? I do have a set of 750 brushes in stock, no idea if they might work or not.

[CYBORG]

If the battery is strong, I would guess brushes. Brushes are cheap and easy to change. If that low mileage, probably just needs brushes and a cleaning

[redglbx]

Might also be the start button itself,, probably the brushes but the starter button is also suspect. Does your headlight always come back on when you release the button ?

[Don R]

I watched it this morning, it wasn't cranking at all and the headlight operated properly, I tapped the starter with a plastic mallet and it started several times in a row. I'll still load test the battery, but it does look like brushes.
Thanks for the feedback.

[redglbx]

Good luck Don ! Sounds like you have it figured out.

[Don R]

It turned out to be the start button, if I push it in a little it starts fine, if I push it in all the way it stops cranking, now where to get a replacement?

[Don R]

I'm not finding an oem right control replacement anywhere, are there some generic replacements like K&S that are good enough quality? How about oem from newer goldwings? I don't have a problem figuring out wiring, its a fun challenge.

[redglbx]

Don, there are several new ones on eBay currently, also could check David Silver and CMSNL . These are common across several models and I will add that now’s a good time to put the headlight on relays so you take that load off of the button contacts.

[Don R]

I'll check ebay again, DSS and CMSNL don't have any. The one I saw on ebay was $325. I'm not ready to do that.

I bought a Toyota land rover retrofit headlight kit shipped for $40, it has two Koito 7" H4 headlights, relays, fuses and a wiring harness that can be taken apart and used on whatever. It's part 81110-60P70. They have been tested on bikes on the SOHC4 forum and have a good light pattern, the bulbs do protrude a little forward of the chrome ring. They came from Toyota parts overstock.
I plan to use one the bulbs, a relay and a fuse to re-wire the headlight once I get a reliable switch. I've already got the ignition power on a relay.

I must be searching incorrectly, the only right controls I find are Rygo replacements for 75 and 76 gl's, used ones and the one $325 new one that shows sold. I searched for start stop switch, right control and the part number for 78, 79 and 77.
I have no doubt that I can wire one made for a 76 and make it work China made might even get expensive in the near future.

[gltriker]

*

[redglbx]

Don, I found several on eBay that are new and sub $50,,

[Don R]

I'll probably go with the ebay rygo brand replacement, it's $37 delivered to my door. I was hoping to find NOS but at the price I'll switch it to aftermarket. I'm guessing the $60 Forsetti brand control is the same switch as the $37 Rygo with a different name stuck on it.
I don't see much sense going with old used parts since they are likely to suffer the same failure soon. Thanks for the replies.

[NotSoLilCrippseys]

Suggestion: Get some electrical parts cleaner spray and clean the controls (left and right).

Getting the dust/gunk out might improve the action on your start button. If it works sometimes, it seems like improving the connection would help it work all the time.

You're out maybe $5 and have plenty left for the next 50 times you want to clean an electrical connection.

If it doesn't work, then go with something new (or a used part from one of the many bike breakers selling on eBay).

[Don R]

The contact cleaner is easy enough to try, I even have a can. I've seen this on 75 and up 750's with no headlight switch, it's almost always caused by the plastic cage that holds the contacts getting brittle and crumbling.

[Sidecar Bob]

Contact cleaner should always be the first thing you try when a switch is giving you trouble.

And if you end up needing a part and you can't find one locally contact this guy
https://vintagemotoswitcheroo.au/