new EMPI VW carb setup problem. Wrong jets?

[Mike Woodman]

I just got the set on ebay and when installed with the initial jet settings (2 turns out) it starts very hard and will only stay running at around 2000 rpm. It's difficult to get a screwdriver in there to adjust the thing but it seems to make no difference anyway. I'm wondering if the larger jets (60 idle and 130 main) might work better. I've checked for vacuum leaks and fuel pressure and no problems there. Stock motor and exhaust. Thanks for any help

[Dirt Road Cowboy]

I have the same problem with an EMPI 34 Pict 3 on my GL1000. It would run good, up into the triple digits on the road, but it would stall under 2000 rpm. That big clunk into first gear was no good either!

I tried testing for leaks, tearing the carb apart looking for debris, soldering the hole in the throttle plate, capping the vacuum lines separately, checking the pilot jet for blockage/restrictions, and experimenting with different main jets from 130, 127.5, 125, 122.5 and 120.

My conclusion? I probably just got a bad carb. Cheap Chinese EMPI carbs are a crap shoot as far as quality goes. Unfortunately, mine sat new in the box for 4 years, so I couldn't return it for a refund.

My options?
1. Try to rebuild the EMPI with a good quality kit.
2. Buy another Non-EMPI 34 Pict 3 carb (Solex).
3. Get a smaller 30/31 Pict carb and adapter to fit the manifold.
4. Go with the 32 DFT Progressive carb using a 2 into 1 adapter.
5. Go with the 32 DFT Progressive carb with a VW type 3 plenum.
6. Go back to stock.

I chose #4 for now, and will eventually get the VW plenum.

Maybe your carb is okay, maybe not. Mine wasn't, and the size is probably too big for the 1000 anyway.

I hope you can get it to work without throwing a ton of money into it.

[Bugdaddy66]

No experience with the 34 PICT 3 on a wing, but lots on aircooled VW's. Just to review the carbs settings, the big screw on the side is idle speed, small screw below it is idle mix. Throttle should be set fully closed for idle with choke open, idle circuit is only through the idle speed and idle mixture screws. If the carb has the electrical solenoid on the side, that must have key on power, or no idle, as that is the cutoff valve. almost any change to the idle speed screw will require readjusting idle mix. Hope that helps!

[robin1731]

Have you checked the plugs to see what they look like? Hard to check jetting without doing that. At different rpm under a load.

[Mike Woodman]

I have been fiddling with it off and on with only minor improvement. I wish I could test the VW carb somehow to see if it is faulty. I may just put the bike away and fart around with it this winter, maybe go back to stock. I got the bike for cheap and it looks real nice so I can justify putting some more money into it but I don't want to throw any more money away. This VW carb set up was 300.00 and no return of course. Thanks for the help.

[Dirt Road Cowboy]

You could take the carb to a local VW mechanic and have them take a look at it. Then you'd know if it was a defective carb, or if it is just too big for the bike engine.

They may also be able to give you some jet advice.

[Mike Woodman]

That's a good idea. I did some research before buying the VW setup and several GL1000 owners were happy with theirs so I wouldn't think it was too big for the bike. However my compression was 150ish (supposed to be 186) on all 4 cylinders so I wonder if that might have an effect on the amount of vacuum needed for the carb.

[robin1731]

Is this a new or used carb? New you shouldn't have to worry about if it is good or not.

Those compression numbers are pretty good. I've had good running bikes with much lower numbers. I wouldn't think that is an issue.

[82aspy]

as far as scc goes, that seems to be the way it's going with empi type options, the odd stellar results vs issues

best to fully research all options, and particularly scc options, where good short basic recent info is practically impossible to find, while at the same time there is volumes of easy to find old scattered misinformation,

which requires a strong dedication of time and effort alone, prior to even deciding on a scc setup,

before spending money

My conclusion? I probably just got a bad carb. Cheap Chinese EMPI carbs are a crap shoot as far as quality goes. Unfortunately, mine sat new in the box for 4 years, so I couldn't return it for a refund.

My options?
1. Try to rebuild the EMPI with a good quality kit.
2. Buy another Non-EMPI 34 Pict 3 carb (Solex).
3. Get a smaller 30/31 Pict carb and adapter to fit the manifold.
4. Go with the 32 DFT Progressive carb using a 2 into 1 adapter.
5. Go with the 32 DFT Progressive carb with a VW type 3 plenum.
6. Go back to stock.

[anixon92]

Did you adjust choke first. Thats the first thing to be adjusted. Then adjust idle cam on choke steps. Without choke adjusted right that will throw off idle. back out both screws 2 1/2 turns. Use large bypass screw to adjust idle speed. Little screw adjust air only for a good idle.
Also if you still can't get a slow idle loose the jet a little on the other side of carb were the bypass screw is. If the jets are screw in to tight that will cause high idle.
I have EMPI 34 pict 3 on GL1100 55 jet 130 jet idles 1000-1100. Starts right up and runs great. I also adjust my accelerator pump after getting it to idle good. Because i had a lite stumple at around 1500-2000.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbGcwFxgrs4

[82aspy]

how many miles on your (above post) setup? pvc runners? any issues? are u using heat? plugs good in all regimes?

any running in damp colder temps?

i'm aware of a few very good reports with this carb but they seem very few as far as having no issues, thoughts on that?

i ask myself if a few have good results, why aren't there there a ton out there?

a big issue gong scc for prob most is first, having to be your own mechanic, time effort and a good chunka change can go in that direction, only to end up with lotsa this

I have been fiddling with it off and on with only minor improvement. I wish I could test the VW carb somehow to see if it is faulty. I may just put the bike away and fart around with it this winter, maybe go back to stock. I got the bike for cheap and it looks real nice so I can justify putting some more money into it but I don't want to throw any more money away. This VW carb set up was 300.00 and no return of course. Thanks for the help.

seems to me that more must be going on than just the carb itself being questionable due to the source?

dunno what the story or history of the empi carb is in the vw community, but if they are not having the same general issues in the carb itself, then something else is going on in gw running issues