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Good info for mounting MC and connecting to linkage. I am not to that point but thought I would use the GL1000 MC on the GL1800 rear disk, but your solution is a better idea and looks cleaner with the aluminum casting.

A couple of things you might want to do differently than I did to mount the 1800 master cylinder--use slightly thicker bar stock so that washers are not needed to prevent twisting (bring the mounting surface out flush with the raised rings around the MC. This would mean countersinking the lower bolt hole (the one that does not go through the frame but only mounts to the MC) so that it is flush with the adapter. Second, it would be easier to service if the new bolt hole between the tabs was threaded. Let me repeat the instruction about attaching the banjo bolt finger tight before bolting down the MC! It is difficult or impossible to twist the brake line enough to get it on otherwise. This will be a snap to do if you get it on before the rear wheel and gas tank.

Gary

ole496 wrote:Parts N More has the rebuild kits for the rear brake cylinder

http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/honda/g ... ng]=custom

They do carry it, but it is out of stock....a problem I am finding for that particular part.

Gary,
Thanks for the link and for the info...knew it was close, but couldn't put my finger on it.

wingrider wrote:I've also been thinking I need to drill my rear brake rotor to match the front rim. Do I need to have the rotor surfaced after they are drilled?

Rotor surfacing removes material and makes the rotor thinner and that is directionally wrong for thermal mass and fad free stopping. Rotors that are gouged often need to be replaced rather than resurfaced. Pads can conform to minor surface concentric features just fine. Many of drill our rotors without surfacing as a center punch can still locate the bit just fine. So my advice is that if the rotors need surfacing, just replace them with some that do not. This is not supported by all, some surface at each pad replacement.

Thanks for that bit of info Fred. I haven't measured mine yet, but in quick passing, it still looked pretty good. Just wanted to be sure when it gets drilled, that I didn't need to resurface it. I'll have to read up more on the those threads that mention doing it.

Also a good idea to chamfer/counter sink the holes after drilling.

Thanks Robin! I had it in my head I would do that, but it is good to know I'm on the right track.

I drilled mine with 3/16ths then chamfered the holes. Some use 1/4 inch but that is a lot more material removed and removing material is not directionally correct from a thermal mass viewpoint. But there is plenty of room for variation.

Thanks for the info Fred! I figured I'd measure what size the holes were in the Busa rim, and make them close to the same on the Honda rotor. Hard to tell when this will all get done. . So many things to do, so little money.

Yes, you do need to match up with the Busa rotors if you can. Plus the rear rotor does so much less braking the pattern is not really a compromise and matching is more important if you can.

Yep, that's the plan...haven't seen the GL rotors drilled with this pattern, but I can get it to work. Went out and looked at the Busa rotor, they punched 1/4" holes through them.

Those front forks are looking pretty sweet. I can't wait to see what else you do with this. Keep up the good work.

Well, small update...got my rear Lester rim and my Randakk manifolds back from being powder coated by a member on here. He goes by tomk1960, and he does very nice work.

I had the rim shot in semigloss black, and the intakes were shot in a chrome. Hopefully they go nicely with the shined up valve covers that Sunnbobb is polishing and painting for me. Being I am going to paint the block black, do you think I should also paint the Webers black?

Here are a couple shots of the progress....
I don't know why this is upside down...taken and attached right side up?
I also am having a hard time deciding between seats. I was set on a Gunfighter from Corbin, (member had one on here, but seems to have dropped off) or a Speed triple seat. I think both look good....which one do you think I should do?

Cool build! Watching with great interest!

I also am having a hard time deciding between seats. I was set on a Gunfighter from Corbin, (member had one on here, but seems to have dropped off) or a Speed triple seat. I think both look good....which one do you think I should do?

If you got the dough, the Gunfighter seat is amazing but it does have a distict look about it. The Triple Seat also looks amazing and definately has it's own look but could be more versatile with a few different bike configurations...it's also cheaper.