How do you replace fork tube caps?

[Ike]

The springs in the fork tubes are difficult to deal with. Replacing the tube caps to me is a problem. The springs must be compressed to screw the caps into place. What methods are you using to compress the springs? I have put together a device that works well. Curious how other Wingers have tackled this problem. Any ideas are worth checking out. Now let's see what you came up with. Could be very interesting.

[heraldhamster]

the ones I dismantled last weekend didn't have that circumstance. the top edge of the spring was just below the last thread where the cap fits. but it was an aftermarket cap w/air valves in each. but I'm by no means an expert, I take apart, replace and put back together.

now I'm wondering, is there something wrong with my aftermkt caps?

[rcmatt007]

on my 1200 I replaced the orginal springs with progressives.... then the fun began... fortunatley the caps had a bolt top... I took a piece of 2x4, drilled a hole just big enough fot my 1/2 socket extension, my wife applied downward force with the 2x4 to place the cap at the opening, while I used the rachet to turn the cap and screw it in

[Sidecar Bob]

You think it's hard getting stock forks back together? - I usually put an old valve spring in the top of each fork on my sidecar machines, and they stick out about an inch before the caps push them in.

I made a special tool for getting the caps started on mine. It works for the caps for forks with air (GL500, GL1100, &c).

I took a piece of wood a foot or so long and a couple of inches wide (size not critical) and nailed a couple of blocks onto it near the centre, just far enough apart for the cap to fit between. Sort of a big wooden wrench.
To use it, I clamp the upper fork tube in a wooden jawed carpenter's vise (if you're careful, any vise will work if you put wood between the jaws and the tube), then bear down on the ends of the tool to compress the spring while turning the tool (& cap) counter clockwise until I feel the ends of the threads pass each other, at which point I start turning clockwise until the cap is threaded in a couple of turns, then finish with a regular wrench.

[Rat]

You think it's hard getting stock forks back together? - I usually put an old valve spring in the top of each fork on my sidecar machines, and they stick out about an inch before the caps push them in.

I made a special tool for getting the caps started on mine. It works for the caps for forks with air (GL500, GL1100, &c).

I took a piece of wood a foot or so long and a couple of inches wide (size not critical) and nailed a couple of blocks onto it near the centre, just far enough apart for the cap to fit between. Sort of a big wooden wrench.
To use it, I clamp the upper fork tube in a wooden jawed carpenter's vise (if you're careful, any vise will work if you put wood between the jaws and the tube), then bear down on the ends of the tool to compress the spring while turning the tool (& cap) counter clockwise until I feel the ends of the threads pass each other, at which point I start turning clockwise until the cap is threaded in a couple of turns, then finish with a regular wrench.

Brilliant.

Gord