82 Nearing completion

[Earl43P]

I've spent all winter on this beast.

I'll take the time to describe the past later, this is the big project I finished today.

Started with this collection of parts:


I abandoned the idea of using the 20* fittings and went with 2" to 1-3/4" adapters instead.
I did a lot of grinding and fitting with the angles and could not come up with a way to keep the angles set from mock-up and fitting to the transport to my welder's. I like it straight better.

If you want the down and dirty, I simply ground down the old muffler to manifold welds, leaving the top weld seam as a keyway of sorts. Then, I pounded those 2" adapter onto the manifolds and set the angles with the mufflers slipped on. Carefully slipped them back off and went to get them welded. Worked like butter.

[Earl43P]

This is how they looked before finish grinding and header paint:

[Earl43P]

I only had one of the Harley Sportster clamps, so i reused the one from the original crossover joint. Had to grind its ears off to get tight enough. I'll replace it with another HD clamp whenever....


Sounds quite nice.
Still need to fab muffler mount brackets and a center stand bumper (still debating removing that thing).

[Earl43P]

I fashioned a pad for the sissy bar today.



I think the wife will appreciate it.

I'm going to the DMV Monday morning for tags.

[Earl43P]

Here's a side view showing the newly installed seat fabric.

[Earl43P]

I'm looking for someone somewhat local (Norfolk? Whiskerfish?) to ride this bike and give me a seasoned Goldwing rider's assessment of its "everything".

Engine response
Suspension (I have the F/R both set at the minimum PSI from the placards)
Brakes,
etc.

It'll be street legal Monday afternoon and I'd be happy to meet anyone who can help me out.
I haven't ridden/owned a bike since 92, so I lack perspective.

Send me a PM if interested, I'll come to you one evening next week.

[Earl43P]

Well, after the debacle detailed here: http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=40192

I found a replacement engine from a member on here! (will get it this weekend, hoping to leave work early Fri)

I'm down to removing that circlip to separate the engine from the rear drive. Currently searching for some tips on how to best do that bugger, since I have to buy a tool to do it. Happily accepting links if you find something written up before I do!

[Earl43P]

Found this very helpful tip:

Sidecar Bob
Post subject:
Post Number:#27 PostPosted: Thu Aug 09, 2007 5:24 pm
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Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 9:14 pm
Posts: 1414
Location: Kawartha Lakes, Ontario
I always use a flat dolly for removing engines.

Every home should have at least one - basically a piece of plywood with a caster at each corner. We have used ours to move everything from sofas (standing on end) to refrigerators. When I made ours I happened to have a suitably sized piece of plywood with a plastic laminate like they use for countertops - when I spill oil on it in the shop I can wash it off with detergent and it's still OK for furniture. If I hadn't have had that piece I probably would have made a second one by now.

To remove the engine from the 'Wing I:
- put the bike on the centrestand and remove all the stuff attached to the engine (see manual)
- roll the dolly under the engine and put blocks of wood between the dolly & the engine so that it is just supporting the engine
- remove the subframe and all engine mounting bolts
- roll the engine forward to get it free of the u-joint and then move it to the left and out.
It's not quite as easy as it sounds. You may need to move it to the left at the same time and possibly rock it a bit to get it clear and a helper to push down on the back end of the bike to make the front raise could be helpful. But the engine will be far less likely to fall off of the dolly & blocking than it would be to fall off of the 2" or 3" diameter lifting pad of the jack.

You should never have to disturb the swingarm pivots to remove the engine.


Note that I said a caster at each corner. Casters are wheels that can swivel in a horizontal direction. If you put wheels that can't swivel on one end and casters on the other it won't move the way you need it to.

_________________
Mr. Honda ('83 GL1000/Dnepr) summer
The Famous Eccles ('84 GX650EI/Velorex700) winter
Click: Colour schematics for all GL1000 & GL1100 and GL1200 standard models plus instructions on how to download the full size version
Image "A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad." - Cookie
Another guy with two sidecars..... Hmmmm... must be something to that....

[Earl43P]

And this link fixed me right up: http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 651#136651

I need to meet that guy, being a 28 year H60 guy myself.....

[aussiewingman]

the circlip takes about 5 seconds to take off, with the right tool, i tried to get mine off with every way i could think, but in the end the easiest way is to buy that tool...

[Casper]

I agree with our friend from the real deep south. I got a tool a few years back that has a series of removable tips, and that can set for either inside or outside circlips. Invaluable when dealing with the little devils.

[Earl43P]

I settled on the NAPA SER 446 ( http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogIt ... 0006402589 ), after taking this one home and finding its jaws had inadequate throw ( http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogIt ... 0293962594 ).

I spent WAY too much time with the counter clerk, trying to convince him that ( http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogIt ... 0006402589 ) the tips on that one were simply too large for the clip's holes.

If the tool in my possession now (SER 446) doesn't work, I'm using bent finish nails in it to make it work. It uses clamp plates to retain the pins, where the expensive models used allen head set screws, making them much harder to modify tips to work.

I've been spoiled all these years having access to coworkers with lots of tools to borrow. Figured I'd buy a good tool for future use, but all I got was two trips to town and frustrated.

[Earl43P]

Circlip was cake with the good tool.

Removed the engine following that Whiskerfish tutorial. More cake.

Obligatory photos.
http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/main.php ... Earl43P%2F



http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/main.php ... Earl43P%2F

[Earl43P]

It's back on the road with the replacement engine.

(LH) HG arrived, installed that.
Fixed the RH cam seal oil leak and installed a different cam (found some wear).
Fixed the coolant tube leak (cut o-ring, inboard one, of course).

If you followed this thread at all, http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=40192 I'll elaborate.
I did all that head bolt torque testing with a pristine, but used head gasket.
Started it with that installed, never intending to ride it. It did leak, coolant into the cylinder, but I HAD to start this replacement engine.

So, long story short, I put 6.5 miles on it this morning and I'm about to head out and see if Turner's has a nice set of mirrors (I only have one on the right). I'm also going to swing by the Yamaha dealer and see if they have that carb cleaner, not the dip, for the FZR.

Who would think that I'm crazy if I rode it to SW PA this long weekend?
I figure if it makes it to my brother's in VA, I'll stay there Fri night and press on Sat morning.

[Whiskerfish]

That is a pretty aggressive trip on an unproven engine

It would be much wiser to stay home and do some local 100-200 mile runs and build up some time on it before venturing across State lines.

Now that I have made the responsible recommendation I have done the same thing several times. On Old Fogey's last visit he left town on almost 3,000 mile run on an engine I had zero history on that I had installed 2 days prior to his arrival. Sometimes the schedule just does not allow a good shakedown/ FCF.

If you can knock out a good ride on it today, say 150 miles or better and then strain the oil tonight just to get a look at what is going on inside it might help to alleviate any fears.