NGWClub®, Inc.

I have an '82/3 GL1100 rack with 3 stuck idle jets. One jet came out easily.

I've used my go-to approach over three days: PB blaster, propane, repeat, try a screwdriver again, repeat.

I've read multiple posts on the forum; most/all recommend what I've been doing, which I'll persist with because it often works on most stuck metal parts - over time.

At this point, though, I'm close to shearing off the soft brass tabs that enable the driver to hold to the jet. (I have other OEM jets, so ruining upon extraction is ok.) I'm starting to contemplate a reverse drill and/or easy out (almost never works for me) to extract these jets when the screwdriver will no longer hold.

Other thoughts?

Obviously, these jets are mission critical for the rack and can't be cleaned by spraying carb cleaner in the hole.

NSLC. Sorry to hear this. Those little buggers can be a real nuisance. The only small suggestion that I would add is that, along with PB Blaster and heat, you add gentle tapping. I would consider using a small drift to tap down gently on top of the jet and also light tapping on the tower. I wonder if one might try using just the right screwdriver and tapping down on the jet. The vibration might help and you might get a bit better bight. I would like to hear what others think about this approach.

I can usually get these out; however, I have had to drill and insert new threads to one carb. A heat gun is very helpful on stubborn screws. Get the riser so hot it begins to smoke and then use a screwdriver that fits the slot perfectly to remove it.

Thanks, Leonard and CFairweather.

I have been tapping with a hammer to help seat the screwdriver a bit. I'm using propane and things are getting plenty hot.

The "skinny" driver isn't the "thick" one, and the thick one is too broad to get down into the cavity holding the jet. I might grind down a meatier driver head to fit into the cavity.

I am getting close to losing the ability to get a driver to hold in there. I'll keep with the pb/heat/tap/drive.

If I lose all purchase on a jet, I suppose it'll have to be a reverse drill bit.

If you have to drill it out and damage the threads, I came up with a good way to insert new threads using a brass tube. I can't remember the thread size of the slow jet, but it is a common thread as I recall. Simply thread a brass tube and then cut it to the length of the thread of the slow jet. The tubing size needs to be a tight fit to the hole because it will be press fitted. Screw the jet into the tube fitting. To get it to the correct depth, use a straw or stick and mark the depth of another carb with the jet installed. Then use a flat head punch to insert the jet and fitting to the correct depth. You could add a tiny amount of gas proof adhesive around the tubing where it will seat to insure it remains in place. An epoxy used to line a gas tank is a good choice for an adhesive. I use Caswell epoxy fuel tank liner and highly recommend it.

cfairweather. I may have to go with something like your recommendation.

I moved to an easy out, but that didn't work. The brass is softer than the corrosion bonding threads, it seems. I'm not "into" the threads just yet.

I realize this will draw rebuttals from some, but it is possible successfully clean idle jets without removing them. I have taken this route on multiple '81's with press in idle jets. Ultrasonic cleaners, compressed air, guitar strings, and careful progressive blocking of outlets to test all passages can result in carbs that cold start and idle perfectly.

Personally, I choose this route over potentially damaging carbs when removing stubborn idle jets. YMMV

If you can get an E string or a jet wire that is .35mm or smaller through the hole without removing it, that will work. Measure the wire to make sure it is not larger than the original size. This jet cannot be any larger than .35mm or the idle circuit will be way too rich and it will not run correctly.

I totally agree with Cedric and Too above,, the only addition I would add is that if you have a slightly smaller string / wire jet /torch head cleaner that’s what I would use. As said above the stock idle jet that Honda likes to use is a #35 which is .35mm or .0135in ,, very small… I would add that you should make sure the leading edge is smooth and radius’d,,, you don’t want to scratch the inside of your jet..good luck !

cfairweather wrote: ↑Mon Oct 13, 2025 7:30 am If you can get an E string or a jet wire that is .35mm or smaller through the hole without removing it, that will work. Measure the wire to make sure it is not larger than the original size. This jet cannot be any larger than .35mm or the idle circuit will be way too rich and it will not run correctly.

For the record, high E strings are typically .009 - .011 for electric guitars. Anything in that range should work. Once you think you have them clear, measure how far into the jet you can put the string. I don't know the exact depth, but it's a good check to see that they are all be the same insertion depth.