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Riding season 2025 has arrived.
I went to move my GL 1100 this spring and the rear brake had stuck.
Turns out the caliper had decided to stick on while in storage.
I decided to just go ahead and rebuild the caliper, the master cylinder and upgrade the hose to a Teflon hose.
Ordered parts from brake crafters and they arrived very quickly. Very impressed with that.
The caliper had what looked like some severe road rash on it.
Considering how well protected that part is, I’m not sure how that would happen. Anyway, I utilized a angled die grinder with 2 inch sanding pads on them to smooth out the imperfection
I rarely pass up an opportunity to clean paint or polish something when it’s off the motorcycle. Another thing needed while the rear wheel was off was that the final drive was slinging oil/grease A search of eBay and I found the obsolete seals and gaskets. Still waiting on those to arrive.

Hope your seals arrive fast as the season is about to bloom.

The weather had been good so I’m seeing and hearing motorcycles all the time.
Definitely motivation to get it done.
In addition to the seals new grips and clutch cable arrived

Another on the to do list was the timing belts. I know the PO did them when he resurrected the motorcycle.
But that’s probably been 10 or 12 ago. Not sure of the miles.
The seals looked good but the tensioners were OE.
The felt smooth but sounded rough.
So I did the replacement outlined here on forum.
Pretty straightforward and inexpensive. Got the pulleys of Amazon . And the local hardware store had the 14mm bolts and nuts I needed.
I did have to take I little off the Od of the heads of the bolt. The counter sink was 3/4 Od and head of the bolt was slightly bigger. Timing belt replacement was a breeze.
I like to mark the back side of the pulleys for easier alignment. And I find using squeeze clamps really helps hold things in place Next reseal the final drive and get the rear wheel back on.

Good idea on the spring clamp as if you breath they move. Nice update.

Thanks Fred. It’s a trick I use when working on dual overhead cam engines. There’s always one cam that wants to move.

The final drive seal replacement went well.
Marked the locking ring with a chisel so I could put it back where it was. Used a screwdriver and a hammer to break it loose. Once it was free enough, I used a pair of needle pliers as a spanner wrench It took me a few minutes to figure out that there was an inner and an outer seal.
I would say the one trick to this job is that when screwing down the retainer ring use a tool to make sure that the lip of the seal doesn’t get hung up.
I had to screw the ring down slightly, so it would stay in place while using a seal tool to make sure that the lip wasn’t getting hung up. Tighten the retaining ring until the mark lines back up
All in all a pretty straightforward job.
Drain and filled with fresh 75–90 synthetic gear lube

While redoing the rear brakes I figured I’d drill the rear rotor. I went with keeping it simple.
I marked the rotor ant the 9 rivets. And then marked in between those. I copied the pattern that was on the front rotors
Utilizing a 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 holes
After drilling, the holes are utilized a step bit for the chamfering.
This worked well because the step provides a pilot. I then chucked it up on my old rotor lathe and utilize the angled grinder with 2 inch sanding disc to refinish the rotor Once I got it all back on the bike, I filled the system with Dot 5 brake fluid.
I know the rear brake will never see enough use to probably utilize the Dot 5.
But that’s what I have in the front so I went with consistency.

Nice that it will not be an oil slinger any more.

Gotta love the USPS. I literally live an hour and 45 minutes north of the Seattle distribution center.
Instead of delivering the package to me, they sent it to Texas and then Colorado
Maybe they could cut cost if they actually sent the package directly we were supposed to go

Lots of chances to get lost, but hope you get it soon.

Parts showed up.
Changed out the clutch safety switch and discovered a bad neutral light diode.
Install the new clutch cable. New grips.
Remove the air cap from the forks and installed regular ones. Definitely cleaned up that area and made it less cluttered.
Filled the cooling system and change the oil.
Just waiting on the diode to arrive and I think I can button this project up

Ah, very close to getting on the road. Diodes go in super fast.

Once you figure where its at.
Arrived today and in.

I also see what you did to the cockpit: '83 150mph speedo on your earlier GL1100. Nice.

I'm guessing you got tired of burying the 85mph needle up on the interstate.