Thanks for the favourable comment.
Hall effect sensors: need a magnet to activate the sensor. The Hall effect sensor I use has the magnet already part of the sensor, no need to experiment or find a spot for the magnet; just connect to the system and use - PnP so to speak.
The 8 tooth trigger wheel signal is very good. Talked to the Microsquirt people at the start of my project before I picked Speeduino and was told that the 8 tooth trigger wheel was good to use in a dual trigger wheel setup.
Have to disagree with the old system not being up to modern day systems. A downside of the older OEM CFI system is the ECU, not being able to connect to the ECU and adjust/recalibrate the engine tune, and CFI component data is not available, otherwise everything is identical. The original CFI system had a diagnostic program as part of the ECU programming, not so today. Have to connect a CanBus system to the ECU of choice for a similar feature. The get home features, dual cam shat sensors, two PB (pressure balance) MAP sensors. Many other good features for the day and for today as well. The owner is limited in what can be done after the fact.
Sequential ignition is good. COP units can be used as coil-near-plug (CNP). Space for the COP units on my '85 FI model is tight so I have had to be creative as to where the units are placed. Wasted spark will provide just as good performance and fuel economy if you want to keep the initial installation as simple as possible. I have mentioned using an aftermarket ECU that will allow you to future proof the system; ie sequential fuel and/or ignition down the road. I would start with wasted spark and paired fuel injectors to start, get the engine tune calibrated/setup, components dialled in, ride for a bit and then if you want to branch out, go for it.
Firing order is 1/3/2/4. For wasted spark cylinders 1/2 are on the same coil, cylinders 3/4 are on the same coil. Paired fuel injectors are cylinders 1/3 and cylinders 2/4. The amount of time between cylinder firings is extremely quick.
What happens is:
Cylinder firing for wasted spark is number 1 cylinder from #1 coil. Cylinder 3 fires from coil #2, coil #1 is charged. Cylinder 2 fires from #1 coil, #2 coil is charged. Cylinder #4 fires from coil #2, #1 coil is charged. This cycle then repeats itself. Fuel will be injected as required. In a Port fuel injector configuration that you will be using, the fuel does not sit in the intake runner very long. Atomizes quite well because the fuel is sprayed almost directly onto the cylinder intake valve.
COP/CNP units such as the LS1 models have internal coil drivers and is a good option for CNP installs. The data for this unit can be found on the Speeduino forum.
Have investigated using two O2 sensors. Most aftermarket ECUs can only use the input from one WBO2 sensor. The second WBO2 sensor would use an analogue input and be tracked as a separate input under a different name. I queried this because the WBO2 sensor I have installed only samples one cylinder bank. The second is to determine if the feeling for each cylinder bank is relatively close.
You can check this without a second WBO2 sensor by reading the spark plugs. If the spark plugs after being taken apart are similar the engine fuelling is probably quite good. I mentioned that there is a cylinder bank balance screw on the throttle linkage that can be used to balance the two cylinder banks so that each is cylinder bank is doing the same amount of work. Connect vacuum gauges to the individual cylinders and ensure that each cylinder vacuum is as close as possible. The cylinder vacuum will be about 9" of HG.
The IAC system wrks well. Hold developed it for the 1200 FI models because without it and during deceleration, the engine would not operate correctly - starved for combustion air, also at idle. This is the IAC system:
Air Chamber Underside 2.jpg
Idle Air Control Valve - 3.JPG
Sequential fuelling/ignition is good, but can be overkill. It is used for environmental emissions at idle and low powers. Once the engine is at cruise or above, sequential fuelling does not play a big part in engine performance/efficiency. Paired fuel injectors work well with a well calibrated VE (fuel) and spark (ignition) table. I have sequential fuel and ignition and did it because I could.
You can use a generic spark (ignition timing) table to get started, then dial it in for optimum power and fuel economy. The 1200 CFI engine has a timing range from 10 to 45 degrees BTDC. Idle timing is at 11 degrees BTDC. Idle timing can be quite different from what Honda has specified because you will not be replicating the Honda engine tune. Idle timing starting at 15 degrees BTDC is a good place to start. 35 degrees at 3500. If you have say 6 RPM increments between idle and 3500 RPM, each RPM setting will be separated by about 3 degrees. Gets you gong, after which you will calibrate the timing settings.
Fuelling is the most important first step after starting the engine, timing is number one. The plugs should look like this - spark plug taken apart:
Number 2 Air Fuel Mixture Ring.JPG
I did a comparison between this plug and one I took out of my 2008 Ford Escape. The plugs were similar in colour and the black fuel ring was the same. This indicates to me that the VE (fuel) table for the 1200 engine is being calibrated correctly.
Change the crank sensor to a Hall effect sensor as well. Will not have to be concerned with a VR signal conditioner. Something like using high impedance fuel injectors. A resistor pack is not required, simplifying the install.
Cheers
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
