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Looking to replace the brake lines on my '81 GL1100 project. They are clogged to the point where a guitar string won't pass through.

Not picky about braided steel vs. rubber. Is there a current "best source" for an entire set? Preferably one that will let me shorten the hose from the m/c since I'll be switching the handlebars.

I have not used them but I see quite a few recommendations for apex http://www.apexbrakes.com/ssl.asp

+1 on Apexbrakes.com. IIRC, they don't have Wing lines listed, but have the specs. I've purchased sets for my '76, '81, and '86. You can contact them and they will build lines to your specs on request. Here's the email address that I've used in the past... Raymond C • havetodoit@hotmail.com

Thanks all. I saw only car options, but will ask their prices for a GL set

I changed mine with modular parts made by Goodridge. You chose the ends you need and the hoses come in different lengths. They have AN fittings so they just bolt together. However, they only come in specific lengths, so there's always a little too much when there's enough. So if you like your hoses dressed tight, then you might not be happy. And it seems like they're becoming hard to find, for some reason.

Shadowjack wrote: ↑Wed Sep 11, 2024 7:47 am I changed mine with modular parts made by Goodridge. You chose the ends you need and the hoses come in different lengths. They have AN fittings so they just bolt together. However, they only come in specific lengths, so there's always a little too much when there's enough. So if you like your hoses dressed tight, then you might not be happy. And it seems like they're becoming hard to find, for some reason.

Their website has a pre-configured p/n for an '81GL, so need to decide if I spend >$200 for front and rear ss brake lines.

Brakes can be so expensive, I don't yet even know if the m/c or pistons are re-usable.

Myself, unless I was doing a full-on 100 point restoration I would only use the braided stainless lines, the improvements in feel and performance is just to big. My 76 went from a very wooden feeling front lever to a much improved feel and power front lever, well worth the money imho. Can’t recommend it enough.

I had the same result on my 1100 as redglbx had on his 1000. Highly recommend stainless steel lines.

redglbx wrote: ↑Wed Sep 11, 2024 8:22 am Myself, unless I was doing a full-on 100 point restoration I would only use the braided stainless lines, the improvements in feel and performance is just to big. My 76 went from a very wooden feeling front lever to a much improved feel and power front lever, well worth the money imho. Can’t recommend it enough.

It's not a full resto. I've already removed the vetter, bought a new Honda bucket, swapped out the shocks for HD, and put on new bars. Signals will be swapped as well and seat might be reworked.

I agree with redglbx.

I second Track T's lead on Apex. His email fits the one used with Raymond at Apex back around Jan '23. Super easy and v. reasonable.

I used Apex to get a custom braided rear line for my '79 mild custom project. Rapid action. Super happy. That rear brake is real, and it has a good feel. My fronts are an older pair Galfer lines - double banjo at the MC - and they're awesome as well.

Stainless lines really are worth a bit more $ than rubber.

Last winter, I sourced some good rubber lines for a near-pristine '79 that I wanted to be as close to resto as I could get it without aiming at concours quality. I got the brake line set from an eBay vendor. New, matched right up, worked great, and had stamped date codes that were within a few months of the purchase date.

None of us NEED braided stainless brake lines.

Don, absolutely correct ! BUT …It is kinda the same as saying we really don’t need air , it’s just better with it.

On my 76, the front brake feel was just so wooden feeling, I must clarify that my 76 was still setup as it was new, 17mm front m/c, oe rubber lines and factory brake pads. The good thing about that setup was/is that my right hand now has pretty great grip. The really good thing about that setup is that in a panic situation you really can’t lockup & skid the front wheel which imho is good but you also don’t get much feedback either.


Simply changing to the braided lines made a significant improvement in feel and power still using the factory oe 17mm m/c and hard pads. I should add that changing to a 15 or 16mm m/c will give you similar results. But being a 30yr brake engineering guy I personally don’t like the idea of a smaller m/c but as long as you stay with a 15 or 16mm piston unit things should be ok.


Don, I will also say that you’ve been doing this long enough that you probably already know all this but I thought I would add all of it for the sake of any newbies that may be following this thread. I will also add that the rubber lines will be fine so long as there are no cracks in them and you change them as a matter of regular maintenance periodically,,, unlike a certain OE 76 Goldwing owner who went around 40+yrs on the factory oe rubber lines,,,, which is a really bad idea/practice,,,,,

Can you even get new rubber lines for bikes?

As for the cost, rubber lines should have been replaced every couple of fluid changes (= 5-6 years) so if you are going to keep the bike longer than that stainless braided lines are definitely a bargain (not to mention the safety aspect of knowing you have good lines).

FWIW, when I was working on the brake on my CX last year I discovered that the 23 year old stainless braided line I had on it had frayed. I figured it didn't owe me anything so I went shopping. I opted for an off the shelf length that was close enough to what I needed (I think it ended up an inch longer but brake lines are flexible) with AN-3 fittings on the ends and a pair of AN-3 Banjo fittings for the ends. After shopping around a bit I ordered a Magnum line and Russel fittings because the Russel line was more expensive but their fittings had a better price (they are all AN-3 standard so they fit perfectly).
FWIW, I like to use Fortnine when ordering online because they have free shipping within Canada on orders over $49 CAD and the order usually gets here in 2 or 3 days. I'm sure there are places in the US you can order from with similar deals & service.

Fortnine's "partner" in the States is Revzilla. At least according to Ryan F9.

I have used Sirus Consolidated in Canada as they had the correct new rubber lines including the rear line in their choice of parts. I used these about 4 years ago when I restored my 1981 Gl1100 and they were available still then and reasonably priced.