NGWClub®, Inc.

Gents,
I noticed that a piece of the o-ring was sticking out of my number 3 intake. I thought I could simply take two bolts off and lift the intake to put ring in. The rubber coupling is stiffer than I thought. Is there a trick to this or do I have take off that coupling. I heard stories to try not to. Mighty obliged.

need to loosen the bolts on all 4 intakes. You want to make sure to leave some in just a thread or 2 so the rack does not shift.

You may have removed the air filter housing to increase the accessibìlity to the problem intake port oring?

In addition to backing out those acorn head screws, Loosening the band clamps on the opposite side carburetors intake manifolds might allow the rack to be elevated a few more degrees higher on the side you are attempting to replace the oring at.

Remember to retighten the band clamps, again, after running the engine up to full operating temperature.

All good advice above ! The only thing I would add is that I use a q-tip to spread a light coating of #2 permatex in the groove, this helps hold the o’ring in place and helps it seal.

I have noticed that on a lot of the manifold o’ring grooves have become quite rough with age and the #2 permatex helps fill the gaps. One other thing as well is that I years ago made a fixture to test the vacuum seal integrity of the manifolds. At that time it was widely believed that they leaked between the manifold and the rubber. I’ve tested a number of them and haven’t actually found one that leaks, seems Mr Honda knew what he was doing. But I will add that on nearly everyone I have tested they tend to leak through the vacuum gauge test port screw, nearly 100%. In spite of the washer/gasket being installed or not.

So because of this I have taken to putting a small dab of #2 permatex on the screw , seems to seal things up fine. A word of caution here is that you cannot use RTV on any of this because gas dissolves RTV. My .02