Bike sputters and dies when warmed up

[tallnwise]

Hi guys,

It has been a while, busy at work, travelling and wet weekends. So got back to figuring things out.

This is the current status:

• fan is good, fuel cap is good, old oils are good, plugs and wires are good, starter and solenoid seem fine.

• so one thing I did not consider was the battery, when I had originally replaced coils, plugs and wires and this issue started - I had installed a new battery

• so with this new battery -- it starts in one crank, but after a while the sputtering starts -- when it stutters voltage drops to 3-4 volts, and this is using a multi-meter -- when I turn off the ignition -- battery shows 13+ volts.

• so for the heck of it, I decided to charge and put in the OLD battery -- this battery does not have the cranks to start the bike, have to use a battery pack to start -- BUT once it starts -- it does not stutter and does not die -- I ran it on the stand for 30 mins, no issue -- turned of for about 10 minutes -- again, jump started it and ran it on the stand for about another 30 mins -- no issues with the OLD battery

SO is it the battery? It is brand new :-(. What could be wrong with the NEW battery -- it cranks fine, when it dies and I turn of the ignition it shows 13+ volts. I can start with the NEW battery without a jump starter in one shot -- but then it stutters and dies.

Thanks,
Dan.

[cfairweather]

Have you replaced the original dog bone fuse with a modern fuse and the related wiring near the battery?

[tallnwise]

yup, got a blade fuse, and have replaced all that fire.

[CYBORG]

Sounds like you have solved the problem by replacing the battery. New does not always mesn good. What is the name ofthe battery, And where did you get it. Sounds like if you replace the ne one, with another new, good one, the problem would be solved

[Track T 2411]

Sounds like you have solved the problem by replacing the battery. New does not always mesn good. What is the name ofthe battery, And where did you get it. Sounds like if you replace the ne one, with another new, good one, the problem would be solved

No argument there, but maybe while reinstalling the old battery an issue such as a poor connection, internally corroded cable, etc. has been (temporarily?) solved? I would probably reinstall the new battery one more time, just for S&G's...

[CYBORG]

Could be. As simple as installing a battery is though, I would hope all of that was checked.

[tallnwise]

Today's update.

• So overnight I charged the NEW battery

• Was thinking similar to "Track T 2411"

• Installed the NEW battery

• Trimmed all wire ends and crimped on new connectors

• Directly connected all wires to the battery terminal versus the L-brackets I had previously installed and used fresh screws

• Tightened everything down real good

• She started in a single crank

AND ran the bike continuously on the stand, intermittently idled her and also put her into gear -- for over 60 minutes -- NO ISSUES.

Guess I need to now suck up my gut, and get the courage and take her out on the road. The last time had to trailer her back home when she had stuttered and stopped in early March.

Thanks all for the support and troubleshooting tips. Fingers crossed, all good now for late spring and summer riding.

Best,
Dan.

[Fred Camper]

Let us know how the ride goes. My money is on no more trailer this time.

[redglbx]

One other thing I might suggest is to take the “new” battery to a local auto parts store and put it on their automated battery tester, maybe charge it first.

Most of those battery testers have the ability to identify small issues with the battery before they become a real problem , I’m thinking possibly a cracked plate or internal short, these things do happen.

[tallnwise]

Today's update:

Not yet taken on the road.

I took the NEW battery to a local store, they charged it overnight and tested it out. Per tests, battery is good.

Here are some battery readings:

• Before putting on bike: 12.98v

• After installation, with key OFF: 12.99v

• With Key ON, engine OFF: 12.5v-ish

• Started engine, at initial idling: 13.7v-ish

• As engine, heated up after 5-6 mins, still at idle: between 14.3v and 14.6v

• At 3k RPM: 14.01v

• Back to idle: 14.3 - 14.6v

• At 3k RPM in 2nd gear: 14.45v

• Back to idle: 14.4v

• Engine OFF, key ON: 13.6v and dropped to about 12.88v

• Key OFF: 12.9v

=================
Testing the 3 Yellow wires, not soldered together, in triangle fashion

• At idle: top - 5v-ish, bottom right - 6v-ish, bottom left - 5.9v-ish

• At 3000 RPM: top - 2.8v-ish, bottom right - 2.75v-ish, bottom left - 2.6v-ish

=================

Is all of this normal? Why is the voltage so high at idle?

Thanks,
Dan.

[Sidecar Bob]

The alternator's output (3 yellow wires) is Alternating Current (AC). Trying to measure with the meter set to DC volts will produce low readings.
This page is about testing the alternators of CX/GL500/650 bikes but the procedures for testing your GoldWing's alternator stator are the same
https://motofaction.org/motorcycles/hon ... x650cx500/
Note that all measurements are made with the regulator/rectifier disconnected from the stator.

It is more usual for the alternator's output to be too low at idle to properly charge the battery as well as powering the headlight and the ignition system. Was your headlight on when you measured 14.4V at idle?

[Whiskerfish]

From your battery readings I would be fairly certain your stator readings will be good once read properly as Bob mentioned.

[redglbx]