NGWClub®, Inc.

I have used the clear tube method for setting and verifying the float level for years. Over time, my clear tube device has evolved and here is my latest design. You can simply turn the tube down to drain the gas out of the bowl. This makes it much easier and faster to adjust the floats. The brass part is hard to find with the correct threads. The black rubber hose is Honda 5.5 fuel line. It "screws" into the brass end and fits very tight.

Nice, I like it. Can be used with the carbs installed is a nice bonus. Will add to Shop talk if others agree. Need some details on where to buy the brass part.

I like it too and would also be interested in where to find the brass.

I have an idea to support this web site. The first three people that send me a PM, I will give you a kit of four and I will pay shipping within the USA. All you have to do is agree to send a donation of $30.00 or more directly to the NGWClub. I am sure Whiskerfish or another admin will be able to tell you where to send your donation. After that, I will have them on eBay at a higher price.

Currently, 2 out of 3 Kits have been donated to support the web site.

Can an admin person explain the options that are available for those wanting to give a donation to support the web site? Thank you, Cedric

About a hundred years ago, I saw a tech article in one of the MC mags where they made extended-length vacuum adapters from a piece of 1/4" copper tubing, a 5mm nut, and an o-ring. Just thread the tubing back half an inch (you have to procure the 5mm die), put on the nut and o-ring, and Bob's your auntie. I still have them. I imagine it would work for the float bowl drain screws if you had the proper die.

Sorry, but after spending almost all day putting these kits together, I decided to give away only four sets.

I had received the Club's Paypal account information from Whiskerfish. ngwtreasurer@aol.com
Yes. It worked swell...

Joe77gw, redglbx, and gltriker and Robin will receive a free "GL1000 Visual Float Level Tool" set of four, for supporting the NGWClub. Hopefully, Robin, Joe, Steve and Cliff will post their honest opinions of the tool after using them. I learned a long time ago when developing software, that the good and bad opinions should be carefully listened to in order to make a better product. Most people don't like to get negative feedback on something they created, but it is the only way to make things better.

Donations received from Joe and Cliff
Thank You!!

This looks very interesting, I've never tried adjusting float levels like this. I'm assuming this is done off the bike, can you give a little more info on the procedure. Also if you want to sell them, a link to the purchase.

I will be writing some better instructions, but the key is to adjust the floats where the level is at the lower edge of the lip. These clear tubes were designed to be used only when the carbs are off the bike and on a stand, but you can leave the intake tubes on. For safety, you could use water instead of gas. It would be difficult to install these if the carbs were on the bike. It would also be dangerous to use these on the motorcycle, if it was running, because it would be impossible to keep the engine free from fuel. One stray spark, and you have a fire. It only takes about 30 minutes to remove GL1000 carbs.

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cfairweather wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 9:35 am It only takes about 30 minutes to remove GL1000 carbs.

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maybe in the fairweather universe

It has been 29 years since I had one in a 1000 frame so I can't remember if it was significantly harder to get the carbs out of it but with the 1000 engine & carbs in the 1100 frame (& now the 1100 engine & 1000 carbs) it takes me less than 1/2 hour to get them out including removing the left crash bar, which requires a pry bar because of the sidecar subframe.

cfairweather wrote: ↑Mon Feb 12, 2024 9:35 am I will be writing some better instructions, but the key is to adjust the floats where the level is at the lower edge of the lip. These clear tubes were designed to be used only when the carbs are off the bike and on a stand, but you can leave the intake tubes on. For safety, you could use water instead of gas. It would be difficult to install these if the carbs were on the bike. It would also be dangerous to use these on the motorcycle, if it was running, because it would be impossible to keep the engine free from fuel. One stray spark, and you have a fire. It only takes about 30 minutes to remove GL1000 carbs.

viewtopic.php?t=78581

Cliff- In my opinion, water won't hurt your carbs. When you are finished checking the levels, just blow some air through the line with the drain screws removed. It won't hurt anything, but some other fluid may cause problems such as swelling of the o-rings. I would only put water or gasoline in the carbs.