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Finally made room and moved it from the shed to the garage. Been a bit slow getting to this point due to recovering from a wreck on the RD400c in August. Named this project in memory of a fine man that some of you knew - "Pistol" Pete Boody. I bought it from his estate. Mostly complete, the side covers have been removed and stored away safely awaiting new paint and decals. Purchased headlight bucket with al internals at the Barber swap meet.

A fine 1975 bike with aftermarket handlebars. What plans do you have for her? Might be nice to keep her close to what Pete had. Or take it as a free canvas. Your choice.

Probably as close to restore as I can afford.

Today's update:
Spent tree days removing the crash bars. Most of this was wait time for penetrating oil to... penetrate the rust on the lower front mountin bolt so it could be driven out.
Finished that after PT this morning, and pulled the rack. So far, nothing broken or stripped. Also, no evidence that the rack has been disturbed. Draining the coolant over lunch.

Do not drain coolant on your Lunch. It is a known toxin lol. Glad you got the crash bar off.

Carbs off, coolant and oil drained (coolant green, oil black), radiator pulled, handlebars pulled and wiring removed from them. Moving about as fast as I can (and want to) with the busted shoulder and very little space. Next will be to move it a little more out of the way so the carbs can be disassembled and go in the ultrasonic cleaner.

A little more done this morning. Plenum split (that was a bit of a struggle - will need new screws) and all air jets removed. Then pulled #1 float bowl and all jets/emulsion tubes, etc. in there. Was happy with initial look at the float bowl - not clean, but no evidence of water like I have had in so many carbs. Was even able to remove the float valve seat without damage by turning down a drift punch to just fit in it, then wiggling it out. One small step at a time. I really kind of enjoy working on carbs. But, I'm VERY slow at it.

pidjones wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2023 1:45 pm A little more done this morning. Plenum split (that was a bit of a struggle - will need new screws) and all air jets removed. Then pulled #1 float bowl and all jets/emulsion tubes, etc. in there. Was happy with initial look at the float bowl - not clean, but no evidence of water like I have had in so many carbs. Was even able to remove the float valve seat without damage by turning down a drift punch to just fit in it, then wiggling it out. One small step at a time. I really kind of enjoy working on carbs. But, I'm VERY slow at it.
caarb 1 bowl.jpg

Interesting

Nothing wrong with slow carb work, as it lets our brains catch up and often that is for the better.

A demonstration video of the method I used to remove the float valve seat. Sorry for the graininess - the only way that I could get it enlarged enough was to use digital zoom on the el-cheapo Go-Pro clone.

Not a lot today. Carbs are pretty much all clean. Waiting for o-rings to assemble. Moved the Triumph out of the garage and into the shed today - that gives me a lot more room to work on the GL.

Can accomplish so much more with the Triumph out of the way. Rear wheel, brake, fender, etc. out and then tank out. Headers and muffler (shot full of holes). Next, remove the front brakes and footpegs. Rear drive came off easy after the snap ring (not too big a struggle, but went through all of my 90 degree snap ring pliers before I found one that worked). Snaked the harness out. It will be a nice winter project to clean and fix up. A couple hours more of fiddling around, and the engine will be setting by itself on the dolly.

No season like the present better for this effort. You are making good progress and it will start to show with time.

Engine out. Now need to get into the tool kit on the Hunley and get the spanner for the steering stem out. Hope the front disks can be cleaned up by turning. Will definitely need another RIGHT header (must be from 75-77). I put the empty oil filter can back on and will remove the crankcase vent can and tape over its connection, then power wash the engine.