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The coils pictured are the Chinese ones from eBay and I measured the resistance with a cheap ohm meter. Both measured 4.2 ohms. I suggest you clean the mounts before installing the new coils and recommend using new bolts or clean the used ones. Using a wire brush and a file will help you get the mounts shiny. It is also a good idea to grind the paint off where the mount touches the frame to allow a good connection and this also may improve the transfer of heat from the coils. The coils themselves will work without being mounted; however, the factory thought it was important to bolt them to the frame. This mount is also used to as a ground point, so in my opinion, it should be cleaned to avoid issues.

Note: IMPORTANT! Before you install the new coils, find the two harness wires that previously connected to the ballast resistor. One is a male (black with a brown band) and one is a female (black) near where the coils are mounted. These two wires must be connected together or your bike will not run. Be sure to clean the connectors too.
Here is a picture of these two wires that need to be connected together:
For the 1975-1977 models, connect these two wires together: If you have a 1978-1979 GL1000, connect the two wires together that were previously connected to the ballast resistor. These are both female connectors so you will need to make a small jumper wire with blade connectors on each end. The new DC1-1 coils should be mounted as shown below: If you have a 1978-1979 GL1000, the coil primary wires connect to the wiring harness with a single 6-prong connector. I recommend using these original wires for the new coils. Simply cut the wires off of the old coils and add connectors to the wires so they can be screwed down to the new coils. Cut the wires off right next to the coils so the wires will be as long as possible.

The wire screws are 10NF32 (10-32) X 1/4". The mounting screws are M5 X 25mm. The coils do not have any polarity so you can connect the power (black wire with white stripe) to either connector. The yellow wire goes to the right coil and the blue wire goes to the left. The left (blue) coil is for cylinders #3 and #4. The right (yellow) coil is for cylinders #1 and #2. Note: The front right cylinder is #1 and Left front is #2. The right rear is #3 and the rear left is #4.

If you are using the Dynatek DW-200 spark plug wires you should use resistor type spark plugs. If you use 7mm wires with copper stranded wire inside and with original caps or NGK XD05F caps, you can use non-resistor spark plugs or resistor type spark plugs.

Non-Resistor type:
NGK D8EA
Denso X24ES-U

Resistor Type:
NGK DR8EA
Denso X24ESR-U

Here are the instructions for the DS1-3 Electronic Ignition: viewtopic.php?p=806708#p806708

Understood. Heat transfer is important too.

Can you guys show me on the wiring diagram where the coils are grounded? Where in the Dyna instructions does it say to ground the coils? Why have I seen many bikes at the track with the coils held on with wire ties/zip ties that ran just fine?

Robin- Don't you have anything better to do as an administrator than attack me over something like this? Did the factory use wire ties? They must have had some good reasons why they bolted unpainted coils ends to an unpainted mount and then bolted the mount to the frame. Yes, I agree they will work with zip ties, but that is not how Honda did it. They also attached a ground wire to the mount, so if you want to complain about the design, talk to Honda.

So why would you think it important to complain about something like this. I simply used the original design and urged people to clean the mount. By the way, the Dyna instructions are good, but not perfect and a lot of people have questions after reading them. Unfortunately, your negative comment says a lot about you as a person.

This post was an attempt to help people, but if I get anymore negative comments, I am going to delete it.

No further comments from me on this subject.

I merely asked a couple questions. Wasn't complaining about any design. Wasn't trying to cause trouble. And I did not mention any one individual.

A lot of people have said the coils need to be grounded. The ground wire going to the mount is for other components so they get a good ground at the frame. The coils would be grounded at the frame mount, if they needed to be grounded. All manufacturers mounted them on the frame to get a good solid mount.

Mine are zip tied on my 75 because I was in a hurry. Runs fine. But I know they need to be more secure.
If not grounded properly. Next project after new shinkos this week.

I have the C5 system onmy 78. Huge coil pack. Mounted it with zip ties. Works fine. Has for years

The original coils on these bikes have their primaries grounded through the points.
The secondaries aren't grounded because each end of the winding is connected to a spark plug and the circuit is completed through the engine block.

I plan to install a set of the Dyna coils to my 77 GL1000, Is this the same procedure as above for the coil install? thanks.

I'll answer your question as if directed to the author of this Tutorial, shammon.

Yes. Completely Identical Procedures.

cfairweather wrote: ↑Thu Mar 31, 2022 10:33 am
The coils pictured are the Chinese ones from eBay
connect the power (black wire with white stripe) to either connector. The yellow wire goes to the right coil and the blue wire goes to the left. The left (blue) coil is for cylinders #3 and #4. The right (yellow) coil is for cylinders #1 and #2. Note: The front right cylinder is #1 and Left front is #2. The right rear is #3 and the rear left is #4.

cfairweather
Were those 4 LONGISH primary wires included with the generic DC1-1 ignition coils as shipped to you?

I bought a roll of yellow, black and blue and some connectors and made these. Those coils don't come with anything (no screws, wires, instructions).