NGWClub®, Inc.

Hey all. After many years of owning 3 different GL's, I found a deal too good to pass up locally (thank you yodagruv!!) for a '77, low miles, CLEAN bike that had recently been laid over (lots of pictures here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=72886)

Now that it's home, I'm in the process of inspecting everything and replacing the layover damage (listed below) and baselining the bike to get it ready to ride. My goal for this bike is to set it up to be a "forever" bike, or one that I keep and ride for a long time (this will also allow me to wrench on my other 4 projects and get them running and eventually sold to the right buyer).

Layover damage:
-replace removable frame section, current piece is kinked from the crash bars
-inspect upper crash bar frame knick (remove p/c and inspect tubes, repair if necessary and re-paint)
-replace headlight module
-repair or replace right headlight ear
-repair rear grab rail somehow
-swap brake light housing or lens
-check if handlebars are tweaked

Things that need work:
-when warming up, zero power below 4k rpm, VERY little power above that. unrideable as such. need to do:
-remove carbs, inspect, deep clean (have a Randakks kit) if necessary, clean/lube all throttle bits
-sync carbs
-check valve lash
-check/adjust Dyna timing
-replace all air hoses (have the silicone kit from Wingovations already)
-install dyna green coils, wires & new plugs
-replace turn signals w/ small LED pods (convert rear to triple run/brake lights)
-remove dipstick tube and clean up associated oil spray

Things to do (over time):
-install stainless 4-4 exhaust
-install rebuilt Koni shocks
-install new fork emulators and SKF seals
-install tapered head bearings (if not already in there from a PO)
-switch to dual braided front brake lines (currently has 3 piece braided lines now) & add braided rear line
-install Randakk upgraded m/c
-install drilled brake rotors
-reupholster corbin seat back half (currently has faded red flames, ewwww)
-all fuilds changed
-spin on oil filter conversion w/ PSC reusable oil filter
-new timing belts/idlers, radiator hoses & thermostat
-lube all cables & adjust clutch
-fix neutral switch light
-solid state regulator & rectifier
-install Melber wheels & good tires

I'm sure i'm missing some things, but this will keep me busy for a bit. The frame "ding" had me nervous, but upon initial inspection, i think it will be acceptable. I'm hesitant to strike an arc on it as I don't feel its necessary, but it might happen in the future. If it's worse than I think long term, I can always sleeve the frame w/ two clamshells and repair and it'll barely be noticeable.

I'm excited to finally have a nearly complete and RUNNING bike for the first time in too long....

Quite a list .... keep us posted ....

Gord(too lazy)Jones

Certainly won't be done at once, but there's a minimum amount of work to be done before it's ready for some good shakedown runs!

And let's not forget, I still have to get the title changed to a rebuilt...

Some pictures of the progress so far. Some ramblings about updates too:

I decided to do a carb rebuild after inspecting the condition of the carbs and the running condition of the bike. Will do a full Randakk rebuild on those and get them as clean as possible, tighten up the linkage, lube the control lines, etc. etc.

Bike came w/ a Dyna S ignition, but will be swapping in some new Dyna 3 ohm plugs, re-using some dyna wires (so long as they check out), NGK caps w/ resistors removed and iridium resistor plugs. I noticed some corrosion on the back plugs on each side along with dark plugs, so I'm not quite sure what was going on with that.

I inspected the cylinder bores as much as i could through the plug holes and I can still see the factory cross hatching, so that's a nice sign.

Need to swap the frame section from my parts piles and clean up the bottom of the engine. I think the oil spray was caused by a leaking dipstick tube, but it's hard to be 100% confident in this.

I'll do the standard tune up items - timing belts & idlers, valve adjustment, thermostat, rad cap, rad hoses, exhaust gaskets, and other things. I ordered a full engine cover & carb kit from stainless cycle to replace a lot of the rusty hardware on there currently.

I think there might be a few electrical gremlins to work out (ex: battery is currently on a maintainer w/ 13V, but headlight is still flickering). I need to hardwire the stator wires to reduce chances for a meltdown, and I'll be properly cleaning all connectors w/ Deoxit and some dielectric grease. Need to tidy up some of the shelter and triple tree area wires too.

Replaced the headlight w/ a proper LED module I had. Straightened up the headlight mounting ear as best I could. Need to pull the old '76 out and start pulling some swap parts (drilled rotors, Koni shocks, fork updates, etc.) off it to stage for future installation.

Took apart the old 5/8 (or 16mm) axial master cylinder and cleaned, lubed and reassembled it. Hopefully it works well as the rubber all seemed to be in good shape. Need to measure for the clutch line so I can get the new one on order from Sunnbobb and then get a master cylinder for it too (I believe I need a 14mm bore).

Need to order some new tires for the Melber wheels (100/90r19 front and 120/90r18 rear), will go with Bridgestone Battleax BT46's for those. I'll be cleaning and refinishing as much as I can along the way, within reason (will re-paint the radiator, but won't shoot the engine in the frame).

Lots to do, but it beats a full rebuild!!

Started carb teardown last night. All went well, but I really should look at getting a better set of dedicated flat heads - my custom made ones just aren't cutting it... Carbs look great on the inside, no battles fought yet. Will be doing a full rebuild w/ Randakk's kit. Have considered taking them fully apart, but not sure about that right now, what with the complicated sync system and all. Will be updated all the hardware w/ stainless screws from Stainless cycle (along with everything on the motor as well)

Well, everything i HAD typed out got deleted when i clicked submit, so no way I can remember all that...

Bottom line, I have A LOT to do to get the bike up to my standards. Neutral switch, seat, turn signals, wheels/tires, parting out the '76 (it has a clean frame & title if needed!), tidying up electrical, etc. etc.

Impossible to do a complete/proper rebuild on the carbs without taking them completely apart.

.

robin1731 wrote:Impossible to do a complete/proper rebuild on the carbs without taking them completely apart.

.

+1 The sync linkage is simple, you just have to make sure you do it correctly...

Good to know, thanks for the feedback guys, will be going with my gut and taking them apart!

Got #2 & 4 torn down to the body. I don't know why I was thinking of taking shortcuts, but glad I didn't...

Next up, proper heated ultrasonic cleaning (I have a very nice unit at home), compressed air and carb cleaner wire (if needed) for all parts. Then new seals, off-idle fix and any other inspections needed.

Always a good evening when you make some progress!!

Nice looking bike for 43 years. Wish I looked the same as I did in '77 Good bones and slate to start with.

As for the stator wires, agree with doing something. I have done the soldering of the wires, but a good clean or renewal of the OEM connectors can achieve the same thing.

Have a look at all the connectors. Have read several forum threads where the author and others have posted that an improvement in the operation of the bike has been a result of a good cleaning/renewal of the OEM connectors.

Look forward to following your progress.

Cheers

Good feedback Red, thanks for that. I too have read fixes like that on other bikes. I don't mind hard wiring them, even a proper crimp connection should an acceptable method.

I believe that a major contributor to the connecter failure is the environment that they live in, near the battery vent tube. With a sealed battery, a good connection should last a long time.

finished up the idler pulley swap to a gates unit. Drilled out the stock pulleys, chamfered the hole and used some grade 10.9 flatehead, countersunk 10mm bolts. I used JB weld on the backside of the bolt head and filled in the groove. I'll grind these both flush after the JB has cured. Will likely get some new springs for the idler plates, just to ensure they're to spec (unless I can measure mine).

Carb cleaning continues, it takes time to get everything as clean as it can be w/ the ultrasonic cleaner. I still need to do a rinse clean as well w/ some clean water to ensure no residue is left on there. Will swap over the idle air jets per Randakk's blog post and do the off-idle fix while they're all apart.

dug through the old parts stash and found a few more "goodies" that I will try and use in time. Still need to get the tires and wheels taken care of. Will likely have some comstars for sale in addition to the lesters.

Lots and lots to do, not enough time....

Well, I got the timing belts and idlers back on, but I don't feel great about the tension. The right side spring looked slightly stretched, so I went ahead and ordered two new ones to use, just to ensure everything is properly tightened.

Has anyone ever devised a way to check the belt deflection/pressure to have a quantifiable value for the belt tension and ensure the differences between each belt are minimal?