A new toy...

[mikenixon]

Have been on the lookout for one of these for some time and finally spotted it on eBay. Made by Stahlwille, the premium German wrench maker. Though most carburetors don't require this anal an approach, the GL1000 carbs, with their zinc based castings and resulting tendancy to pull float bowl screw threads, virtually demand it. I have already used it. Perfect!

[Sagebrush]

A good quality tool is an always welcome addition to the toolbox.

[mikenixon]

Yup! Tools, toys, same thing!

[5speed]

Yup! Tools, toys, same thing!

I hope my wife doesn't see this..everything I buy for my toys is a very necessary tool.
I even managed to sneak a 1/2" drive impact gun in on the kitchen reno shopping list..for...installing the draw pulls.

[mikenixon]

Yup! Tools, toys, same thing!

I hope my wife doesn't see this..everything I buy for my toys is a very necessary tool.
I even managed to sneak a 1/2" drive impact gun in on the kitchen reno shopping list..for...installing the draw pulls.

Hah!

[Pedrotq]

G'day!

I bought my new to me toy a couple of years ago from e-bay.

it is a TOHNICHI - 50RTD, made in Japan, works from 10 to 15 Kgf-cm which I think means Kilogram force per Centimetre.

Wonderful for carbs like the Goldwings

The only problem that I have found ifs what setting to use on the M4 and M5 screws in the carbs??


Only just today I drilled out all the bowl screw threads on my 76 outfit and shooting Helicoils in them all. Most were damaged as some people use self tappers from the local hardware store to fit the bowls back on.

What settings do you use??

Many thanks, Peter.

[mikenixon]

G'day!

I bought my new to me toy a couple of years ago from e-bay.

it is a TOHNICHI - 50RTD, made in Japan, works from 10 to 15 Kgf-cm which I think means Kilogram force per Centimetre.

Wonderful for carbs like the Goldwings

The only problem that I have found ifs what setting to use on the M4 and M5 screws in the carbs??


Only just today I drilled out all the bowl screw threads on my 76 outfit and shooting Helicoils in them all. Most were damaged as some people use self tappers from the local hardware store to fit the bowls back on.

What settings do you use??

Many thanks, Peter.

Kewell! Almost all the carbs I rebuild, including Gold Wing, have 4mm float bowl screws. Thus I use 7 inch-pounds.

[Pedrotq]

Many thanks Mike for the speedy reply, I will convert the 7 in/lb to the metric equivalent.

Best regards, Peter.

[Liam]

There is a guy over in the States, I think Nixon is his name wrote an article on that there internet thang about
about the use of a device called a TimeSert to be used instead of helicoils for small screws like carburettor float bowls.
I bought a kit of them and sure enough, they are super. You can read about them here:

https://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/ ... epair.html

[robin1731]

There is a guy over in the States, I think Nixon is his name wrote an article on that there internet thang about
about the use of a device called a TimeSert to be used instead of helicoils for small screws like carburettor float bowls.
I bought a kit of them and sure enough, they are super. You can read about them here:

https://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/ ... epair.html

Liam bet me to it. I always use time-serts for screws as small as 4 or 5mm. Especially in something as soft as a carb body. Worth the cost of the kit IMO.

Heli-coils have their place. But I don't think this is it.

.

[5speed]

Yup! Tools, toys, same thing!

I hope my wife doesn't see this..everything I buy for my toys is a very necessary tool.
I even managed to sneak a 1/2" drive impact gun in on the kitchen reno shopping list..for...installing the drawer pulls.

[5speed]

Yup! Tools, toys, same thing!

I hope my wife doesn't see this..everything I buy for my toys is a very necessary tool.
I even managed to sneak a 1/2" drive impact gun in on the kitchen reno shopping list..for...installing the drawer pulls.

um..apparently I hot the quote tool.

[gltriker]

If you don't already have damaged carb body screw threads, consider this.

I had procured, quite to my surprise 2 years ago, a set of LTD carburetors from a member here in the Club. Very inexpensive, too!

Not not even one of the float bowl screws had a stripped hole in the carb casting. The head of the screws were still yellow .!

Anyway....

I don't know whether it's been discussed elsewhere, but the screws shouldn't be used to run the bowl down against the gasket. Push down and hold against the bowl to compress the main jets retaining bracket while diagonally running in the screws. Reduces the unnecessary wear and distortion of the carb body screw threads.

Also, the use of a small drop of blue loctite on the screw threads provides a little more structural integrity to the threads, themselves, in the carb body, too.

The example I'm trying to impart from my personal experience with the blue loctite, is that when the screws are removed, while pressing against the bowl, of course, the blue loctite has filled the gap between the complementing threads, stays there, and very little attaches to the bowl retaining screw threads. Leave it there and apply a new drop of blue loctite when reassembling them.

Acts like a bit of lubricant going into the still undamaged carb body threads, too.

Done.

[mikenixon]

While that may sound good, I wouldn't recommend it. The aluminum in GL1000 carb castings is butter soft. Resistance is just going to unnecessarily add to the tendancy to pull threads.