Fork Seal Removal

[OldRider2]

Guys I'm at the end of my rope trying to get the fork seals out of my '77 GL1000. I've tried to read most of the posts on this and I have made the Boody Tool mentioned here and on the Randakk Site. The first tool I made was out of 1/8" and although it felt heavy enough, it wasn't. I know the steps to make it said to use 3/16" steel but at the time the 1/8" was all I had. So I picked up some 3/16" X 1 1/4" flat stock, got it bent and ground to the 45 mm width but I still can't budge the seals. As near as I can tell they haven't moved any in either fork. I've even used a block of wood on top of the fork to try to drive the seal out but no luck with that either. Very frustrating to say the least.

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[RB]

Maybe a heat gun would help..or if you have the tubes in your hand, dunk the end into a pot of boiling water for a few minutes..them try to pull them. heat will soften the rubber and maybe loosen up the groove part too.

[OldRider2]

I didn't try hot water but I did use my heat gun both on the outside and inside of the tube but it didn't help any. I know the GL1100 forks are different design but I had no trouble putting new bushings and seals it that bike.

[CYBORG]

Not sure about yours, but some have an internal wire type snap ring that holds the seal down. Hard to see sometimes

[OldRider2]

I will look Cyborg. I have a lot of the rubber removed from the seals but I thought it just looked like the steel of the seal itself.

[elwood440]

I've had good luck with a tire lever.

Made for prying, hooked end, and a nice blunt end to avoid tearing up the seat.

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[CYBORG]

I will look Cyborg. I have a lot of the rubber removed from the seals but I thought it just looked like the steel of the seal itself.

They can be hard to see. Has to be something, cause seals are just not THAT hard to remove

[CYBORG]

you have to find the break in the ring, get behind it with a pick, and pry it out and up. Just a thought

[OldRider2]

I've just looked at one seal and stripped most of the rubber coating off from the steel of the seal and can't see any splits, seam, etc. indicating there might be a split ring of some kind.

How tight does the home made tool fit inside the old seal? Should it be lose, a little sloppy, or is it so tight it won't hardly move? Mine is fairly tight and doesn't more around much. I was wondering if it might be forcing the sides against the inside of the fork tube and creating a tighter fit for the seal. It measures as close to 45 mm as I can get it with a ruler and grinder.

[CYBORG]

I do recall having to use a slide hammer once, but it came out with a couple of hits

[BlueThunder]

Post a picture of the seal, so we can see what's going on.

[robin1731]

Yours is the second tool I've seen like that. The part that hooks on to the seal appears too flat. You need to put a bevel on it so it digs into the seal. Flat like yours appears won't bite into it.

Bevel should go inward from top to bottom. It should be narrower at the part that goes in the furthest.
.

[OldRider2]

As a last resort, I called the local shop where I get my Inspection Stickers and tires mounted to ask if he would work on my fork seals. He said sure. I told him the trouble I was having and the first thing he said was, "Well the problem is they are 40 years old and really stuck". He said he often uses a hair dryer, one that would produce a lot of heat to help get them out. He has a small Ducati Dealership, is in his late 60's and has been around bikes his whole life. I think he does more wrenching then anything.

I digress. I went back to try one more time and heated the first fork tube about 15 or more minutes with my heat gun, trying to pry with a tire tool like Elwood suggested but no joy. I finally stopped the heat long enough to assemble the Boody Tool, put the heat back on it with the tool in the vise while I leaned against the fork. When it started to move a little, I moved it back and forth, finally it came out! On the second tube I only needed to put the heat to it for 5-10 minutes and that seal came out easier.

Note the pictures, the seal and washers are reversed from the way they came out. The metal ring was next to the fork bushing, a rubber coated stepped washer, then the seal. I don't know if the stepped washer was part of the seal and the heat separated it or a separate washer.

Thanks to all for your suggestions.

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[Graham Cracker]

We like success stories

[Dirty Dave]

My machinist buddy made me a similar tool but with a Dutch hammer part of it.
I've had success with it in the past but not this time.

I believe Robin is right. The flat ends seem to just put pressure on the seal and
pin them harder to the fork leg walls.

Gonna get grinding a new profile like he suggests.
(done already in photo)

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