1977 GL1000 Restoration by Novice

[AdamGMaier]

This is the carburetor that I figured would either be in need of a cleaning or somehow assembled wrong by the previous owner. He said it didn't run and he didn't know why. I never attempted to start it because I new the tank was bad and didn't want to suck in dirty old fuel. As far as I can see it looks clean nothing obvious not assembled right.

[chewy999]

I agree with Liam on this one, The size, and the material is what makes a big difference in which is best to use. And how often it might be taken apart in the future

Consider myself told off!

To be honest, never used Time Serts, but then again, the beauty of the forum is you gain knowledge all the time so if ever I need to re-thread a small vital hole, will consider using Time Serts.

[Easter]

Here are some pictures I took with the scope.

looks like some colonoscopies I have seen....

I was thinking the same thing

[AdamGMaier]

The loose screws were the ones that are underneath "The bowls" (I think). Under them are the floats. These are on the carburetor I bought on e-bay. That carburetor is not as squeaky clean as the one that came with the bike but it also doesn't look like it's been disassembled much. I'll post some pictures of the eBay carburetor soon.

[rcmatt007]

even with a time-sert the bowel material is soft so snug not TIGHT

[AdamGMaier]

These are some pictures of the e-bay carburetor. What opinions are out there on which one I should use? One that has been totally rebuilt by someone I don't know. Or one that wasn't rebuilt but perhaps cleaned by some unknown auto shop and then sold on eBay when they came across it in some boxes they had in storage. (Likely a customer that didn't pay).

[Easter]

even with a time-sert the bowel material is soft so snug not TIGHT

Still thinking about colons?

[rcmatt007]

LOL!

first of all, check the numbers on the carbs, they should all be the same. Every year of the 1000's had different carbs (except for the 78's which early had one set, then later the same carbs as the 79's).

Pete or Mike Nixon do an excellent job rebuilding. Other than that "ya pay's ya money and ya takes ya chances"

Randakk has an excellent video for DYI

[ericheath]

Carbs look cleaner than any set I started with. It looks like someone was in there and drilled the "puck" to remove it.

[robin1731]

Like rcmatt said, verify that the carbs are the same year/number. I wouldn't trust any carb that I bought used. I would rebuild the entire rack. that is the only way to know for sure what you are starting out with.

.

[AdamGMaier]

Reading everyone's replies I wondered if something could be wrong that could cause damage? Previously I figured the worst that could happen is they don't work. If so, to what extent of damage would be caused by improper function or improper assembly?

[Liam]

If the carbs are not right then it not so much that it will damage the engine as damage your patience and well being trying to get the engine running properly.
These carburettors are not the simplest of designs, and they need to be put together exactly as designed and be spotlessly clean. Details like the drilled pucks in your pictures as ericheath pointed out, if not sorted will make it impossible for you to get engine to run well if at all. Float levels are also critical, if not within specification will cause fuel starvation or flooding. The flooding can cause the engine to hydro lock and also the fuel can get into the sump and dilute the engine oil.
The carbs can look good on a bench but the only true test is to fit them on the engine and run them. This is where the frustration comes in. They are fiddly to fit and remove, it gets easier with practise, and you may find you have to fit, test and remove them many times. You will learn a lot doing this ,it can be frustrating but very rewarding when the bike runs well.

[Norbert R]

My advice is as above, to first confirm you have 4 correct model carbs for your year, and then get Randakks rebuilt kit WITH the video. It allowed a complete novice like myself to rebuild the rack to a higher standard than virtually any "professional" shop.
Alternatively, have Pistol Pete or Mike Nixon do them, guaranteed to be perfect then.
Good luck

[AdamGMaier]

I forgot to answer the question all carburetors (all 8) are 764A. Just putting them on and seeing if they work is no longer an option. I will either do it myself or hopefully get pistol Pete or Mike Nixon to do it.

[ericheath]

Had a friend who had a 77 who started rebuilding them to find they were 78's with mix and match parts. So he bought a fair set of 764a's to find the same thing. The internet used to be fairly full of people who claimed they were all the same from 75-79 and probably fed this. First thing you need are good eyes or a magnifying glass. Next is good sorting skills as Octane's build shows. Then it is a careful tear down and identifying numbers or Keihin marks on all the brass bits. It is well worth the time to commit to a long slow process. My first set were fairly molested when I got them, but I finished them off so they now hang on the wall of shame. Boy, did I butcher them.