Two more carb questions for stock GL1000

[Mike Woodman]

With my carbs off the bike, how much resistance should I feel when moving the air piston through the bore? With the throttle plate open of course. I cleaned them thoroughly But still feel sticky. Also the last time I synced the carbs I noticed that on the final adjusting screw, when I just put the screwdriver blade on the screw with almost no pressure the idle would change dramatically. Could the shaft seals be shot? I know rebuilder say they never fail. Thanks

[dbtroudy]

when I just put the screwdriver blade on the screw with almost no pressure the idle would change dramatically. Could the shaft seals be shot?

That happens to me all the time. The linkages sentative and the three little holes in the carb body that allow the carb to idle are that small.

Randakk posted a set of "Mistakes" that carb re-buliders do not knowing any better. Mistake no. 28 should address your concern

28. Failure to “bench synchronize” the throttle plates. This is a simple visual check to make sure the throttle plates close simultaneously. By checking this before the carbs are installed, you save lots of aggravation later in case there has been an assembly error … especially with the carb throttle plate mating linkage (see #29 below). Hint: there should be a washer on either side of the synchro link which joins the throttle butterfly shafts of each carb pair on the left (2/4) and right (1/3) sides. Ditto for the left carb pair to right carb pair balancer. Obviously, this must happen before the intakes are on.

Also, under mistake No. 11 he posted the following note:

NOTE: I strongly recommend that you leave the decorative chrome trim carb “stay” in place as you separate the carbs from the plenum. This way, the #1/#3 carb pair and the #2/#4 carb pair will stay connected to each other when you remove them from the plenum. You can leave them attached to each other this way throughout the entire overhaul process. For amateurs, it’s probably best not to disconnect the carb pairs. This avoids the rather tedious task of re-uniting the carb pairs correctly. If you do separate the pairs, the synchro links must be joined with a washer on either side of the arm, there is a special connector link that joins the choke butterfly shafts and there is a spring that goes between the 2 throttle butterfly shafts (near the synchro screw).

On every set of carbs I have rebuilt, 7 at last count, all but one had the linkage sitting on top or below the two washers he mentioned. This also affects the idle and synch settings.

[RB]

The piston should bounce right back up..hold cap upside down and tap the piston down it should bounce up almost to the lip of the cap and all should bounce the same. Polishing not sanding the inside and outside of the center shaft is key.