78 GL1000 blowing oil from right side

[FADM Stern GNSF]

Finally started work on a wing I got 3 years ago to fix up (finally have garage space to work on it). First thing was to see if the engine would run (new timing belts, condensor and points, fluids, and new oil pressure switch, plus set valve gap). It started up (after i put 3 gallons in the empty tank and switched to reserve) and smokes for a while (nost was paint burning off the exhaust pipes), then got it to idle. Left side, clear exhaust, right side smoke (plus oil drip from the exhaust port as the pipes are on temp without washers)

I know I have a lot to do to it (perfectly clean 78 carb rack but not set up yet so not surprised it runs rough) but want to make sure the engine is OK before dropping a lot of cash on it. Hoping the oil leak is just the valve seals, but not sure if I should bit the bullet and pull the heads ?

Any idea's, comments or help would be greatly appreciated, as Im good with the CX500's but the wing is new to me.

[robin1731]

Left could be valve cover gasket or many times it's the shift shaft seal. The head gaskets really don't leak oil very often on these.

[gregforesi]

Generally, oil smoke out the exhaust at start-up, or for a second after getting on the throttle after backing down hard, means oil is getting in down the valves. Constant oil smoke when idling (doesn't clear up) or oil smoke when accelerating (every time) and oil smoke from the crankcase vent usually means blow-by at the rings.
Do a compression check on all 4 jugs. You may have a low one on the right side. That doesn't mean there is a show-stopper there, but a crankcase flush (Marvel Mystery Oil is my choice) can free up stuck rings. Sometimes just putting miles on it can fix the problem. Worst case would indeed be a problem inside a jug. If one of the right side cylinders is at 80psi and the other three are at 160 you might want to pull that head and inspect the bores.

My advice is to replace the valve stem seals. It's the cheapest thing you can do right now and may actually fix the problem.

[FADM Stern GNSF]

Thanks all for the advise, going to run it a bit more and find out why the fan wont come on (I had it running 30 min but shut it down once the temp reaches the end of the "normal" range). Wiring is a rats nest as it looks like it had a fairing once upon a time. I an hoping I can resolve it without pulling the heads (assuming I can stuff the cylinder and change the valve stem seals without removing the heads) but will see what a compression and leak down test show. Looks like the bottom end may be OK, but since the exhaust is on temporary (no bike back end or gaskets on the exhaust) its hard to tell as its loud. I know the carbs are clean but not set up so they are probabaly way out on sync, which I can adjust once I find out why the fan wont run.

Thanks all for the help as I know Im going to need a lot more in the coming days

[robin1731]

snip............... going to run it a bit more and find out why the fan wont come on (I had it running 30 min but shut it down once the temp reaches the end of the "normal" range).

You may not quite have gotten to where the fan would come on. Near the end of the normal range is right about when most do kick on. If nothing else have a floor fan of some kind in front of the bike ready to turn on if the bike fan does not come on.

And I mis read where you said RH side was leaking. That could be the tach seal.

[olchris]

Thanks all for the advise, going to run it a bit more and find out why the fan wont come on (I had it running 30 min but shut it down once the temp reaches the end of the "normal" range). Wiring is a rats nest as it looks like it had a fairing once upon a time. I an hoping I can resolve it without pulling the heads (assuming I can stuff the cylinder and change the valve stem seals without removing the heads) but will see what a compression and leak down test show. Looks like the bottom end may be OK, but since the exhaust is on temporary (no bike back end or gaskets on the exhaust) its hard to tell as its loud. I know the carbs are clean but not set up so they are probabaly way out on sync, which I can adjust once I find out why the fan wont run.

Thanks all for the help as I know Im going to need a lot more in the coming days

Watching smoke coming out is worrying, but IMO dont "over-diagnose" just yet... run it as much as possible and as you say the carb are clean(?) and do the leak down test also compression test and these will answer lots of thoughts... Sync it once (at least) ride it/run it hard and sync again........ Always sweeter the second time... (and dont ask me why the smoking disappears!!!!)

I have never known any other engine that seems to "randomly" decide that it will blow some smoke on start up.. Lots of home remedies on here though...

[FADM Stern GNSF]

LOL well funny enough I ran it yesterday for a bit and the smoking stopped ??? . Checked the fan by shorting the switch out and it did come on, so happy there. Do have to troublyshoot the RR as its charging at 17.5V and I sure dont want to kill the new AGM battery I use for my CX500C. Going to get a set of exhaust crush gaskets in it so I can quieten down the exhaust and make sure the bottom end sounds ok

Here is what it sounds like (no exhaust crush washers and pipes on finger tight), but the exhaust sounds make it hard to see if the bottom end sounds ok.

http://vid1237.photobucket.com/albums/f ... lzyhae.mp4

Also may have to replace the left side heads due to a missing exhaust bolt section or maybe KB will fix it

http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff4 ... ljv4my.jpg

Cant ride it, as the whole rear end is off the bike, bought it as is 3 years ago (PO had no idea if it ran, it was one of 12 he had to fix up). Want to make sure the engine is good before pumping a lot of cash into it (needs new calipers, tires, battery, etc).

Hoping the RR problem is the sense wire (black i think), if not may spring for a MOSFET one once I know the bottom end is OK.

[FADM Stern GNSF]

snip............... going to run it a bit more and find out why the fan wont come on (I had it running 30 min but shut it down once the temp reaches the end of the "normal" range).

You may not quite have gotten to where the fan would come on. Near the end of the normal range is right about when most do kick on. If nothing else have a floor fan of some kind in front of the bike ready to turn on if the bike fan does not come on.

And I mis read where you said RH side was leaking. That could be the tach seal.

Well, ran it a bit more today and did a compression test and decided to see if I could get the fan to come on. Took it up as far as 1/2 way through the open area on the gauge between the end of the normal and the red mark, but didnt want to let it get right to the red. I know the fan runs (when i short the connector to the switch. Maybe I should get a new switch and play safe, as it scares the crap out of me seeing that close to the start of the red. Gauge seems to work fine, and the 7V reg is spot on at 7.00V

[NCScooter]

If you have an IR thermometer, shoot the thermostat housing, the fan should come on at 203 F or so. I think the switch is available from Mother Honda. I have one that fits some car, same threads and temp, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinf ... d=2&jpid=0 that was on the cross-over parts list on this forum. Worked fine for 12k miles so far.

[FADM Stern GNSF]

Sounds like a good plan, will get the exhaust on properly with gaskets and use my temp gun to check the thermostat housing. Last thing I want is an overheat especially when things are looking good