Cutting intakes shorter?

[fish]

worst case is gunna be below 300
IMHO if you avg 200 you will be fine.

[83gl1200]

Somewhere on here is a link for fresh rubbers, if you need them down the road. Best of luck! Pictures would be great.

Do you know where I might find this link? I can't seem to find it. I was also searching for stainless brake caliper pistons before and never found that link either. I found references to stainless piston calipers but no source, so i already gave up on them and bought the one set i had to have of normal ones. I googled too but the only replacement intake rubber Google gives me is a plumbing part, a standard rubber pipe coupler that doesn't look right.

[HOTT]

If I had my way the manifold would be sitting flat on the block, but it probably needs a little space so it won't melt... How much is also the question.

I think you're gona find the crossover waterworks will keep you from lowering very much.
Sorry only shot I had of an '83 with single mani. to show clearance.

Mill & Frame.jpg (50.83 KiB) Viewed 343 times

You have plenty of room to hide it all. Maybe a lot of time and money for a little result.

Carb & filter.jpg (49.18 KiB) Viewed 343 times

PVC manifolds have proven themselves to be reliable

...........to no comment, is to comment........I guess I made a comment.

[83gl1200]

Yes I know about the coolant tubes being in the way, and I see no reason why they can't be replaced with hoses. If I'm wrong let me know.
Part of the reason to get the manifold low on the block is to use block heat to avoid carb icing issues that plague single carb setups.
If you have something to say by all means say it. If PVC manifolds have issues I don't know about but you do, this is the place to speak up.

[HOTT]

I guess I missed the relocating of coolant tubes. My bad.

PVC Maybe, as a mock-up.
PVC will act like a thermos more than a conductor.
Any heat transfer you are looking for will be significantly lower than with metal.

I would tell you to consider the weight and mass
of a single carb being jostled down the road, while being suspended by PVC.

Not bucking your ideas (Lord knows, I should be the last one).


Ric

[83gl1200]

You didn't miss the coolant tube switch, I didn't mention it. Nor did I mention using block heat until then.
Yes, it's an insulator. I was also contemplating putting copper tubes along side the exhaust manifolds hidden on the lower inside, one on ea side of the bike, which feed hot intake air into a closed air filter. The carb would get heat from inside and outside, and all these lines would be covered in stainless just to look cool, and routed in a way that looks cool. The carb needs to be slammed down so all that stainless braided hose custom work shows from the side of the bike. I want the top of the carb level to line up with intake hoses that strap to the bottom of the fake tank part of the frame.

I know this sounds complex and expensive, but not really. I have less than $80 total into carb, and carb rebuild kit, and manifold including shipping. I'm a very good ebay shopper, and the carb was used. Empi 34/3. The wing carbs could have been $300-400 to get going and I would need a $100 manometer to tune them.

I have a lot of room to come out cheaper with this setup.

The heated intakes would also add support to the top of the carb, because they would strap to frame. This setup would be very sturdy.

Now I have no surprises to show off when it's done, but its better to have you guys checking my plan for flaws I guess.

[NCScooter]

Boy. Lotta discussion. Here's the link to the new intake boots. I called 'em rubbers. Oooops. http://jbmindustries.com/Goldwing.html I would say that 200 to 300 fairing height degrees is correct. Haven't had a chance to check mine yet.

[NCScooter]

Just checked the temps with the fan running. Pretty much every spot I checked on the block and head was at 203. That's the temp the fan comes on. The intake elbows were ~180 at the head end and 125-135 at the carb end. After a little research, the radiator cap will blow at ~260. At that point you would have bigger fish to fry. Or boil. I think that is well below the flash point of gasoline, don't know the melting point of the PVC. I wanna chime in with others here and say that I think it would be more economical to buy Randaaks kit. you're gonna get nickeled and dimed to death on this.

[kurtl42799]

The problem with PVC is not its melting point but it's glass transition temperature. PVC and other amorphous thermoplastics don't transition abruptly from a rigid solid to a molten pool over a narrow temperature range. The material starts off rigid at RT and gradually becomes more rubber-like before melting. The glass transition temp is where the material becomes more piable than rigid. For PVC this temp is about 175 degrees F. I would think the chances of enough heat soak on a hot day with a fair amount of stop and go would be rather large raising the risk that the manifold would just droop until resting on the block.

PVC seems to be a terrible long term solution for a manifold especially the closer you put this manifold to the block. Heat and PVC don't mix especially when you are using PVC structurally.

BTW, My undergrad degree is in materials engineering with a minor in polymer science.

Hope this helps even though it is probably not what you wanted to hear. I would suggest taking a section of pipe and putting it in the oven at 200 degrees and see what happens to its rigidity. I have never done this so perhaps you will find it to retain enough stiffness.

Kurt

[fish]

Kurt I wonder how the data would change once the PVC has been exposed long term to gasoline vapors and aerosols..under heat and vacuum? perhaps thermal cycling?
How about a long ride on a hot day and at the first offramp the entire system sucks flat like a cheap paper soda straw?

[83gl1200]

Good info, I'll have to check a scrap and see after I cut the basic manifold parts. If it looks sketchy at 250, and I'm picturing it will look more than just sketchy from what you're saying, then it'll just be used at stock height without heat as a temporary measure to get me on the road this summer until I decide what to do permanently. No money lost...

Honestly though, I want a single carb setup regardless of whether it ends up costing more and performs less than the stock setup, so it still doesn't deter me that much long term. There are other options for materials down the road as money allows.

If I wait to get this on the road until I have enough money for randakk's kit, then I will miss this years riding season entirely. That's not going to happen. I've already missed more than half and won't miss the rest.

It doesn't have to be a heated manifold in the summer for just a fun bike that isn't needed for daily use, luckily, so no problem.

quote myself: "All you folks with these great financial warnings about costs, should have spoken up -before- I bought a cheap fixer goldwing."

If anyone needs yet another quote to put in their sig, and you know who you are, that one sentence might actually help others.

Should be a freaking sticky thread showing peoples costs all added up, where each person can post a full list of what their costs were, and how they got financially screwed (or surprised) buying a cheap fixer wing. (And whether they think it was worth it in the end anyway.)

My mistake was I should have just bought any one of the $1500 bikes on cl that already worked and didn't need anything, like that single cyl suzuki 650 I almost bought before buying this money pit. But no... I just had to have a goldwing. I just had to make the mistake of seeing those bulldog style customs, and ol sparky, and some of your cafe's. I just had to be dumb enough to think I could cheaply fix up and create a cool custom goldwing.

I'm not done spending money or even close, but this is the bike I wanted so whatever, I guess I don't regret it. What I do regret most is not waiting on this until winter. I actually had a working like new chinese pos 250 which I sold to buy this fixer, could have kept enjoying having a bike at least, and then sold it and switched to a goldwing project in the winter but I guess I didn't because I didn't trust that thing to keep working. I wanted to dump it before I blew it up and get something larger, and I wanted the best price so I sold it at the start of the season.

[Gowing]

I used an IR gun on my running gl1000 and I remember it being Approx 150 block temp
once warmed up.

[83gl1200]

I used an IR gun on my running gl1000 and I remember it being Approx 150 block temp
once warmed up.

thanks.

My last piece of the manifold puzzle came today.

Upon further measuring (meaning eyeballing it) I couldn't get it low enough to do exactly what I wanted anyway, not with this carb, it still turns out too tall no matter how far down I get it.

I think I'd probably need a side draft carb to pull the first plan off.

Plan b is to just get her going with this and then later I might just add preheated intake air to this at stock height.

Also stainless steel braided hose covering ended up being more expensive than I am prepared for at $10 a foot.

I'll have to find another dress up material for this intake, any suggestions are welcome.

[fish]

71QZNZmySIL._SL1500_.jpg (27.8 KiB) Viewed 308 times

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[83gl1200]

thanks, but I was thinking there might be a fake stainless steel hose covering, or some other material. Maybe some metallic tape or shrink wrap or a hobby material.

I know there's all kinds of fake carbon fiber materials you can stick on just about everything, and I sure don't want fake carbon fiber, but that's the idea.

Technically the black flex pvc doesn't look that bad. It's not eye catching and cool looking, but I might just have to live with that.