http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic. ... ht=#136393
Well, although it worked fine I was less than happy at the results regarding the lever force needed.
When I was over at Cyborg's we did some experiments and I found that the whole clutch from an 84/85 1200 would JUST go in! (in theory, as it was a lash-up job just to test some ideas out).
When I got back home, an 84 1200 clutch just happened to be on eBay so I grabbed it.
OK, so why would I want to do this? Here's the reason
(begin FC4 edit 30MR2023)
The black part in the center on the left clutch pack is a diaphragm spring. This method of springing allows high clamping pressure with low actuating pressure. The six springs on the GL1000 clutch are eliminated.
If the pressure plate is removed, the diaphragm Spring needs to be compressed to reinstall the circlip. Here is one method to compress the spring for circlip installation.
(end FC4 edit 30MR2023)
This is a BIG clutch! 1200 left, 1000 right.
The 1200 basket has one more tooth on the oil pump drive sprocket. The oil pump chain is the same for all the 1000/1100/1200 which means that the 1200 oil pump sprocket is smaller by one tooth also! 1200 left, 1000 right. That also means that the 1000 oil pump will be overdriven by my reckoning by about 12% which should help the lubrication a bit.
The GL1000 mainshaft instead has a plug in the end, with a squirter hole. I didn't want to mess with the mainshaft so I used the GL1000 push rod cup instead which needs to be swapped into the GL1200 lifter plate.
The 1200 pressure release plate has an open bearing to allow the normally fitted long guide pin to go through. The 1000 has a push rod cup instead which needs to be swapped into the 1200 one.
The GL1200 pushrod has to be shortened down to 42.5mm.
The correct locking washer for the 1200 clutch locates on the nib above the screw. I could not locate one over here so the clutch pressure plate was drilled and tapped for a screw and the 1000 lock washer used.
Is that tight or what!
Actually, it's not as tight a fit as it looks. There is some overlap of the gasket which, when trimmed away, leaves a gap of 2mm-3mm between the outer clutch basket band and the cover.
All buttoned up!
All ready to go back into the bike, having checked that nothing is fouling on the covers. There is one drawback immediately apparent from this conversion. There is no way that ANY clutch work can be done with the engine in the frame. It is not even possible to remove the slave cylinder!
I tested this out thoroughly today. Nice light, smooth action at last!
This would be a great conversion too for anyone with a sidecar or someone like Randakk who is pulling a lot more power out of the motor.
(there's one or two more pics in the album
http://s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm27 ... %20clutch/ )
One more thing. The clutch design changed for the 86 / 87 1200 to a ribbed type of clutch basket with altogether different friction plates. This basket looks as though it may be slightly bigger from pictures; not sure on that as we didn't have one to try but if it is, it won't go in!
