Rear Shock Rebuild, GL1100I

[dwayne_hopkins]

Here are the parts to rebuild the shocks; note that you may not need the boots if yours are in good shape, and you may need eye bushings if they are not in good shape.



These are the parts that make up the shock.


Parts laid out in order of assembly, bottom to top.


Spring clip installed.


Guide bushing installed. Nope, I didn't forget the AFT, I'll be filling it from the top with a small baster. Much cleaner that way.


Installing back-up plate A, the thinner of the two.


I used a small hammer, half-inch extension, and back-up plate B to tap new seal in place.


Seal seated, with groove for circlip clear.


Circlip installed.


Dust boot installed.


OK, let's do this once more, with a little more detail!


Spring clip.


Installing guide bushing.


Back-up plate A.


Press seal in place as far as you can by hand, keeping it straight.


Use back-up plate B and tap seal in further with light hammer, rotating the shock a quarter turn each time, and taking care not to hit the shaft.


Once the seal is flush, you will need a little assistance to tap it in further. You can use a piece of 1 1/2" or 2" PVC if you have it.


I used a 1/2" extension (since I had it on hand) to tap around the seal, keeping the seal straight by driving it in by small increments and going around the seal in a front/back/side/side pattern.





Continue until seal is fully seated and circlip slot is clear.


Then install the circlip.


It should seat fully in the groove.


To put the boot on, start like this...


then rotate it to the proper position (this makes the boot easier to put on).


Finally, pull the boot over the body of the shock.


Finished with the rebuild, now to fill them with ATF.


I filled them with 365 cc (ml) of ATF using a 16 ml graduated baster.


Filled to 16 ml each time, except the 23rd time was only 13 ml.


To do this, squeeze the bulb just a little...


until fluid backs up around the tip...


then release the bulb and watch the bubble slowly rise through the fluid.


I carefully reattached the shocks to the air lines without turning them over.


I then reattached the shocks to the bike.


That is all there is too it.

[olered67]

I just got VU JA DE!!! That's like DE JA VU except its an overpowering feeling that you have never been here before!!!
I guess it wasn't VU JA DE but DE JA VU!!!
GREAT WORK AGAIN HOPPY!!!
THANKS

[Roady]

Excellent writeup, Hoppy.

And super pics, too.

But now there's another thing on my list!

(Sent to ShopTalk)

[dwayne_hopkins]

Thanks olered, Roady! The rear shocks are working much better than they were, and we even took the bike out two-up. The front fork springs are shot, however. I am going to upgrade her to Progressive springs up front, and 416 series shocks in the rear. We are planning a trip at the end of the month and I want her bike handling well, since we will be packing camping gear, clothing, etc.

[JBz]

i usually put a air fitting with scrader valve where the hose goes, turn them upside down in the vice and fill them before i put the bushing and seal in. It goes much quicker. on the refill. JB

[dwayne_hopkins]

i usually put a air fitting with scrader valve where the hose goes, turn them upside down in the vice and fill them before i put the bushing and seal in. It goes much quicker. on the refill. JB

I did this away from home without access to my tools, "specialty tools" (selection of PVC pipe, wooden dowels, and rubber stoppers), or vise. So I opted to fill the shocks after assembly, I knew my sister had an old baster or syringe someplace.

[Superdave54]

I am getting ready to rebuild my 1980 rear shocks. My upper and lower bushings are worn. No problem with the uppers. They came right out. But the lowers seem to be glued in, and are some kind of orangish translucent material instead of the hard black rubber on the tops. Anybody else run into this? I have ordered seals and upper and lower bushings from an OEM supplier.

Also, when I drained the shocks (fittings off and turned upside-down), I only got a few ounces of fluid out, instead of the 12.5 they are supposed to have. Thanks.

[CBX n GL man]

Excellent "how to" write up on shocks. Later.

[fish]

great tutorial dewayne... thank you for taking the time to thouraghly document it for us.
I was going to rebuild mine 'cuz they were leaking but they stopped so I guess they are OK.

[Sagebrush]

great tutorial dewayne... thank you for taking the time to thouraghly document it for us.
I was going to rebuild mine 'cuz they were leaking but they stopped so I guess they are OK.

Or they have run out of oil.

[timothy1027]

I am having difficulty refilling rear shocks with ATF on a 1983 GL1100-I. I drained them of ATF (thru the air pressure holes) when I had them off the bike. I now have them reinstalled on the bike. When I try to refill them with like 12 OZ. of ATF, the ATF overflows.
Can I refill the shocks with ATF without dismantling them?
Thanks,
Tim

[Whiskerfish]

The original poster's description made it sound like the fluid went in a drop at a time???

[joedrum]

good stuff thanks

[CBX n GL man]

Hey guys I'm doing a rebuild on some Gl1100 shocks to go on my GL1200.

Just want to confirm a couple things--trans fluid is 365ml correct? also checked on seals and seems to be 2 #s 91257-463-003 & 91257-463-013. So are they different for different years of GL1100?

Also, what have you guys used to flush out all the junk in the shocks before refill. Thanks. Later.

[82aspy]

Hey guys I'm doing a rebuild on some Gl1100 shocks to go on my GL1200.

that will lower it, just making sure

Just want to confirm a couple things--trans fluid is 365ml correct? also checked on seals and seems to be 2 #s 91257-463-003 & 91257-463-013. So are they different for different years of GL1100?

shocks are diff from 1000 to 1200, longer bigger

Also, what have you guys used to flush out all the junk in the shocks before refill. Thanks. Later.

original fluid turns into black goop that includes whatever may be left of the internal rubber bumper