1978 GL1000 Resto Mod

[GalDemSuga]

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Just painting the chipped, gouged and rusty chrome covers

[CYBORG]

The confusion I have is that the finer the paper the larger the number. So, 220 is finer then 100. Removing the chrome, and rust etc. would be easier with blasted medium. Or find a set of stock covers to paint. Less work, and probably better results. If you really wnt to work, start with 50 or 80 sandpaper.

[GalDemSuga]

The confusion I have is that the finer the paper the larger the number. So, 220 is finer then 100. Removing the chrome, and rust etc. would be easier with blasted medium. Or find a set of stock covers to paint. Less work, and probably better results. If you really wnt to work, start with 50 or 80 sandpaper.

I should’ve said that was the roughest grit that I had so I used it and in the end I wasn’t convinced that it was enough. I don’t mind work and that is coupled with budgetary constraints. I do not have the luxury of media blasting. It makes it more rewarding and pleasing when it’s all finished.

[gltriker]

POST#94

I got the engine covers scuffed up today. I used 220 grit sandpaper. Tomorrow I will scuff it up again with 100 grit sandpaper before priming and painting with VHT Aluminum Engine Enamel.

I have circled a part that demands special attention must be paid to its mechanically clean condition, if and when it would be painted.

1A1137CA-7BDA-4564-A8F8-BBF06A1CFF39 - GalDemSuga parts.jpeg

You will note there is a special profile "paper" gasket positioned between the *Points Case* and its mating mounting surface on the cylinder head. Note the exposed Points Case mounting screw(s) threads are somewhat corroded. If the primary side of the ignition system circuit is relying on corroded screw threads to conduct a very low resistance ground path connection from the cylinder head into the Points Case, its not a Best practice...

20221023_162422.jpg

The gasket and inevitable accumulation of corrosion between the *Points Case* and cylinder head will most likely create a high resistance ground path in the primary ignition circuit. A fresh coat of paint applied over critical surfaces on the Points Case will insulate the OEM breaker points' baseplate AND the electronic ignition alternatives connections which are necessary to perform their, "make and break ground path" function. The widely used electronic ignition system main baseplate and its twin ground switching modules connection to it, functional integrity, seems to be even more reliant, when compared to breaker points, on a very low resistance ground path circuit connection to the bike's negative battery post to operate dependably.

*Keep It Clean* seems appropriate

[rcmatt007]

If you have chrome, it is tricky as it has a tendency to flack off aluminum and it is darn near imposiible to remove. Usually you start with something like 220 (wet paper) and go to finer and finer such as 400 or even 600. 80 0r 100 will leave scratches and they will how up in the paint.

For head covers and timing belt covers I have used eastwoods silver base powder coat

[GalDemSuga]

@ Matt
I will put down 2 or 3 layers of primer and then sand with 400-800 before I paint the all of the covers. Leaving the 80 grit scratches I just did today will help that primer adhere to the Chrome/Copper or so I’m hoping.

@Cliff
I read the info on the grounding issue when I first saw Cedric posting and Robin asked the question(upsetting Cedric). I dug deeper into it and saw your post which led me to decide that I will add a ground wire to the points case. I planned on drilling below it and then tapping the hole before adding a ground wire back to the frame. I am only painting the outer most part and I will tape off the mating surfaces both at the front and the back. I am replacing all of the screws as well.

[rcmatt007]

use a self etching primer as the base, then a sandable.

[GalDemSuga]

use a self etching primer as the base, then a sandable.

I need to find one that can handle the heat.

[gltriker]

POST#99
I went back into the early pages of this Topic to see if the addition of a supplemental ground wire (drill and tap) is advisable. No. Post #33 shows your engine's ignition points case is not a corroded mess inside.

The example photo of corroded screw threads was taken by me last time I checked the DynaS modules static timing on my trike's engine.
The total package of Dyna ignition components installed on trike's engine has always been very dependable (has fired cylinders 1 and 3 installed NGK Iridium spark plugs which were fouled ugly) anyways
After finding the static timing of both Dyna S modules was still spot on, I reckoned it would prudent to loosen the, " in my face", points case retaining screw and take a gander at the ground path surfaces; the condition of screw threads and where the underside of the case retaining screw head contacts the points case.
No, I didn't check the lowest one of the two screws yet.

Anyways. You've clearly done your homework and already understood the importance of ground path integrity in that area of the primary ignition system. New screws and clean threads in the cylinder head are already in your check list of important details.
No, I never felt trike's engine needed a supplemental ignition ground wire installed. I am, though, going to soon revisit the points case retaining screws (both of them) and proactively, * practice what I preach*.

Good job

[rcmatt007]

use a self etching primer as the base, then a sandable.

I need to find one that can handle the heat.

here is what I have found, rattle can engine paint does not hold up to gas. the heat on the valve covers is not all that hot

[GalDemSuga]

use a self etching primer as the base, then a sandable.

I need to find one that can handle the heat.

here is what I have found, rattle can engine paint does not hold up to gas. the heat on the valve covers is not all that hot

This will be my first paint job and if preparation is good, and everything is done carefully it should hold up.

[GalDemSuga]

I went back into the early pages of this Topic to see if the addition of a supplemental ground wire (drill and tap) is advisable. No. Post #33 shows the points case is not a corroded mess inside.
The example photo of corroded screw threads was taken by me last time I checked the DynaS modules static timing on my trike's engine.
The total package Dyna ignition components has always been very dependable (has fired cylinders 1 and 3 installed NGK Iridium spark plugs which were fouled ugly) anyways
After finding the static timing of both Dyna S modules was still spot on, I reckoned it would prudent to loosen the, " in my face", points case retaining screw and take a gander at the ground path surfaces; the condition of screw threads and where the underside of the case retaining screw head contacts the points case.
No, I didn't check the lowest one of the two screws yet.

Anyways. You've clearly done your homework and already understood the importance of ground path integrity in that area of the primary ignition system. New screws and clean threads in the cylinder head are already in your list of important details.
No, I never felt trike's engine needed a supplemental ignition ground wire installed. I am, though, going to soon revisit the points case retaining screws (both of them) and proactively, * practice what I preach*.

Good job

I’ve been doing a lot of reading just to make sure I get the most out of my 40 year old bike in terms of reliability and safety. I made some changes on my 82 Suzuki GS1100G and I will do similar things here.

[pidjones]

Clear coat with Spraymax Glamor Clear. It is a true 2k with hardener canister inside that you puncture and have 24 hours to use. Good coverage and easy to buff out. I buy mine on Amazon. Spray it over what ever color coat you use.

[GalDemSuga]

Clear coat with Spraymax Glamor Clear. It is a true 2k with hardener canister inside that you puncture and have 24 hours to use. Good coverage and easy to buff out. I buy mine on Amazon. Spray it over what ever color coat you use.

I have gotten the VHT High Heat Clear because I will be painting the exhaust as well. Here are the products I picked up. The exhaust paint is on the way and it’s a satin black.

[rcmatt007]

the very high heat stuff does need to cure with heat. Not that I would ever do that in the kitchen oven