1978 GL1000 Resto Mod

[gltriker]

I got the valve seals done. The cams are back on and torqued up. I did finish the tensioners and fitted the new belts but I was uncomfortable with the left pulley marks and took it back apart. I will try again tomorrow. The left pulley seemed to be one tooth off but trying to move it forward kept resulting in the T1 Mark moving forward slightly.

What sort of levering device were you utilizing in concert with the very creative fulcrum to compress the valve springs ?

[GalDemSuga]

I got the valve seals done. The cams are back on and torqued up. I did finish the tensioners and fitted the new belts but I was uncomfortable with the left pulley marks and took it back apart. I will try again tomorrow. The left pulley seemed to be one tooth off but trying to move it forward kept resulting in the T1 Mark moving forward slightly.

What sort of levering device were you utilizing in concert with the very creative fulcrum to compress the valve springs ?

I first tried using a valve spring compressor that I use on my Chevy truck that secures to the rocker assembly mounting surface but it was sort of big and kept slipping so I used a 17 mm open end wrench. It is the same 17 mm wrench that I was using to turn the engine over and it worked perfectly. I also switched out the 3/8 extension that I was using before for a smaller diameter metal bar that came in my original tool kit which is used to remove spark plugs, along with the spark plug socket

[gltriker]

Yes. Perfect repurpose of the Chevy cylinder head rocker arm stud tool, and adaptation of the 17mm wrench, too.

I reckon you are discarding the original ignition coils and installing a new set, too?

[GalDemSuga]

Yes. Perfect repurpose of the Chevy cylinder head rocker arm stud tool, and adaptation of the 17mm wrench, too.

I’ve been wrenching on my own cars for quite some time now and I’m glad I was able to use one of my tools. I was going to use the timing light from my 86 Honda Accord and my 89 Chevy K5 applications but since I’m going to be switching to electronic ignition I no longer need it I was really excited about the prospect

Yes, I’m going to be switching the coils and using an EBay electronic ignition set up. I have to credit Cedric for a write up that he’d done on a different forum. I’m also going to be using an electronic fuel pump and again based on something Cedric had done.

[gltriker]

Yes. Perfect repurpose of the Chevy cylinder head rocker arm stud tool, and adaptation of the 17mm wrench, too.

I’ve been wrenching on my own cars for quite some time now and I’m glad I was able to use one of my tools. I was going to use the timing light from my 86 Honda Accord and my 89 Chevy K5 applications but since I’m going to be switching to electronic ignition I no longer need it I was really excited about the prospect

Yes, I’m going to be switching the coils and using an EBay electronic ignition set up. I have to credit Cedric for a write up that he’d done on a different forum. I’m also going to be using an electronic fuel pump and again based on something Cedric had done.

Yes, Cedric is very generous
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=77232
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=77231

[GalDemSuga]

Yes. Perfect repurpose of the Chevy cylinder head rocker arm stud tool, and adaptation of the 17mm wrench, too.

I’ve been wrenching on my own cars for quite some time now and I’m glad I was able to use one of my tools. I was going to use the timing light from my 86 Honda Accord and my 89 Chevy K5 applications but since I’m going to be switching to electronic ignition I no longer need it I was really excited about the prospect

Yes, I’m going to be switching the coils and using an EBay electronic ignition set up. I have to credit Cedric for a write up that he’d done on a different forum. I’m also going to be using an electronic fuel pump and again based on something Cedric had done.

Yes, Cedric is very generous
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=77232
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=77231

Those are exactly some of the sources that I’ve read. I have always been smitten by these old motorcycles and I’m glad that these resources are out here. I can’t thank all of the people who have put together all this information enough for what they’ve done for me and those who will come after me.

[gltriker]

I went ahead and did the valve adjustment.

With the carburetors presently removed, the process of performing individual cylinder compression testing, now, is even easier.

(Throttle held wide open requirement is completely eliminated )

[pidjones]

Use care to be on the same level with the marks when viewing them. Parallax can be large with the distance between them.

I got down on the ground and viewed them while setting the belts today. The small arrow on the pulleys now line up with the backing plate. I gave the engine a few rotations when I got done and the marks line up. I tensioned the belts enough to be able to twist them 90° and then torqued the tensioners. I will do the valve adjustment tomorrow. My Clymer manual has both the In and Ex @ 0.10mm (0.004in).

Please discard the Clymer manual in the nearest refuse bin. Then, get a HONDA service manual (pdfs are available online if you search).

[GalDemSuga]

I went ahead and did the valve adjustment.

With the carburetors presently removed, the process of performing individual cylinder compression testing, now, is even easier.

(Throttle held wide open requirement is completely eliminated )

I had not done a compression test, so this is an excellent idea.

[GalDemSuga]

Use care to be on the same level with the marks when viewing them. Parallax can be large with the distance between them.

I got down on the ground and viewed them while setting the belts today. The small arrow on the pulleys now line up with the backing plate. I gave the engine a few rotations when I got done and the marks line up. I tensioned the belts enough to be able to twist them 90° and then torqued the tensioners. I will do the valve adjustment tomorrow. My Clymer manual has both the In and Ex @ 0.10mm (0.004in).

Please discard the Clymer manual in the nearest refuse bin. Then, get a HONDA service manual (pdfs are available online if you search).

I got the same advice about the Haynes manual too.

[GalDemSuga]

I did find a Honda manual online that reinforced Clymer but I’ll shelve the Haynes and Clymer ones

[GalDemSuga]

I got the engine covers scuffed up today. I used 220 grit sandpaper. Tomorrow I will scuff it up again with 100 grit sandpaper before priming and painting with VHT Aluminum Engine Enamel.

[rcmatt007]

did you mean 100 grit for the second sanding?

[GalDemSuga]

did you mean 100 grit for the second sanding?

Yes, the lowest I had was 220 grit so tomorrow I’ll pick up some 80 or 100 grit and sand it all again. I am concerned that the 220 grit did not scuff it up enough for the primer to stick. I should also say that in a lot of places to 220 grit went right through the Chrome, and into the copper behind it.

When it comes to painting the tank shelters, I’m going to refer to your painting for dummies posting I will be using rattle cans for that job.

[CYBORG]

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