A forum for stories, pics and updates of your resto's. Be it a barn find, Grampas hand me down or a bike being brought back to it's former glory.If you are restoring it, show us your stuff!
nakedinterstate81 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 09, 2021 9:14 pm
I still had some gascacinch that I will use for that.
But, while cleaning up the heads, some silicone sealer came out around these plugs
Are these freeze plugs?
Why was sealer in there?
Did they leak?
Not freeze plugs.
(Here's what I had read about the answer to your question. Right now, I can't remember where.)
Honda had published an early production service bulletin about the possibility of these pipe plugs leaking on 1975 GL1000.
There may have been an engine serial number range?
I will attempt to find it for your review.
Cliff )
Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday.
RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing "I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT Me Too!!
nakedinterstate81 wrote: ↑Wed Jul 07, 2021 6:00 pm
Now I can fit a new oil seal and bolt it back to the head.
The manual says to apply sealer to the cam holder and cylinder head surfaces.
Why?
Isn't the whole assembly getting oil ?
All I have is Yamabond.
20210706_121654.jpg
Over the past 10 years since joining the Club, I have read several opinions about the use of sealer in the cam holder to cylinder head mating surfaces. I vaguely remember from 9 years ago when I removed my right side camshaft, the only area which may have had a faint witness of a sealer was in the area where the camshaft seal is captured between the adjacent surfaces. There is no oil pressure in that area. Oil might minutely weep in that area on either side of the camshaft seal, though.
I had a small tube of Loctite 515, a gel consistency anaerobic product, that was used to seal mating halves on small displacement hydraulic motors . That's what I used. Just a little dab in the area I've pointed at will do ya.
Prior to assembly , as a Best Practice I would personally put a very thin smear of a liquid sealer around the OD of the seal, and the general area under the red arrow, too.
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Cliff )
Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday.
RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing "I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT Me Too!!
I went to get some Permatex aviation form-a-gasket sealant liquid and poured it into the well around the plugs yesterday.
Today I fitted the heads to the block and the sealer came out
Any ideas for a better type of sealer?
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1975 Gl1000
1981 Gl1100, looking for a used good engine.
Hey gang, I have my wheels back from the tire guy, the forks are rebuilt and I started installing the front fork and wheels.
The rear wheel is off and the bike is lifted from under the engine.
Something doesn't look right especially with the left fork leg. It's touching the rotor. I have tried rotating the fork legs and checking them on a flat surface but I couldn't see any wild deformation. On a flat surface the upper fork leg just lets a little bit of back light through while rolling it.
I checked the manual again if I have the axle in correct. Nut and speedo gear is on the right, spacer on the left.
The photo shows the handle bar straight with the body and the front wheel looking crooked. The weight is on the wheel.
What am I doing wrong here? It wasn't like that when I took the forks off
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1975 Gl1000
1981 Gl1100, looking for a used good engine.
RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing "I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT Me Too!!
RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing "I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT Me Too!!
Yea, you’ve got a little issue, but I bet you can remedy it fairly quickly. Sounds like you have all the spacers in place, so provided you have your forks flush with the top triple clamp, snug up the top mount, but leave your bottom one fairly loose. Be sure your axle retainers are also on the loose side. Then grab your fork sliders, and give them a pull. With you in front of the front wheel, I would try pulling more with your left hand. This should straighten out your forks to be inline with your front wheel.
You want your axle stub to be slightly proud of the left fork.
20E41CF8-5EB0-46B4-A02D-8A35B2F82F5C.jpeg
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Thanks for the suggestions.
It looks better now.
Fork is flush with the top of the clamps. I left the bottom clamps loose, lifted up the front and pulled a little.
Lowered the forks onto the axle, there was still not enough space between the rotor and the fork slider but I was able to pull the slider flush with the left end of the axle.
Still, the right side has more space between the rotor and slider. Are the rotors the same offset?
Looking from the rear after straightening the front wheel, I think the handle bars are crooked.
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1975 Gl1000
1981 Gl1100, looking for a used good engine.
Look at the manual again. There is a certain way to install the front wheel. Need to have the caliper in place and it involves feeler gauges.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder