A '75 followed me home today

[wog]

I use industrial paint markers to touch up my "oops" and for the rusted bolt heads, nuts, pins, etc. that I can't easily find a replacement.
Gloss black for the frame and silver for the zinc plated items. Not show quality, but I've used them for years and it keeps the rust at bay after wire wheeling...

[wog]

Ended up changing out the 90 degree zerks in the above post with 45 degree.
Much easier to get to with the centerstand down.

I combined what other's have used for the rubber cushions for the tach and speedo.
But I only used one of the vacuum belts (Hover #170) and a DASH #345 O-ring. Total cost was about $1.75 for each meter.
The single belt held the O-ring nice and tight.
(Yes, I know I could have just bought the cushions for the GL1100, but I need at least 10 for my bikes and at over $11/each it adds up too quick).

You guys said you like pics.....

[wog]

Back to the carb cleaning...
I still can't find a supplier for the Yamaha carb dip locally, so I guess it's on to ebay or amazon.
I found other "carb cleaning with an ultrasonic cleaner" tips from other sites that recommended using Pine-Sol, so that is what I tried today.
I diluted it 50/50 with distilled water, and ran it unheated for 80 minutes (in 10each - 8min. intervals) and it came out pretty good. The acid in the Pine-Sol started to turn the aluminum carb bodies dark gray, so I stopped.
Tomorrow, I'll use just the distilled water, heated to the maximum the unit will allow. When I did the bowls in just water, there was no discoloration on the aluminum.

[Fred Camper]

Good progress, enjoy watching your build.

[wog]

Good progress, enjoy watching your build.

Thanks Fred.
I'm still fighting the carbs. Worst I've ever seen.
Not really looking forward to the frozen motor yet, but I'll press on...
Summer in Florida is not our good riding season, so not a big hurry to get it back on the road. Although I do ride my GL1200 some in the mornings.

I made up a simple fixture for removing the float pins. I don't have Randakk's tool (which looks good), so I made this with some steel drops laying around.
I used the screw (head turned down on a lathe) to support the longer/upper post so I could adjust it to just the right height.

(OK, so I actually just got tired of trying to get the upper post to be the exact height by grinding down, always too much, then adding metal to the top.....)

I ordered another set of '75 carbs off ebay for spare parts. Will have it middle of next week.

[Fred Camper]

Nice tool. Oh no, did I really say that

[HOTT]

Love the "O" ring on the gauges

[wog]

Making good progress on the carbs. Rack is back together, combo from the ebay purchase and the original, now for some polishing.

Got this Dunlop classic-looking tire for the front, but can't seem to find anything for the rear. I know, another tire question, but everything I find looks so "modern".

[Fred Camper]

Yes, great progress. Seems like the front shows off the most vintage, so the rear is not so important. But I know other on the board can help identify vintage looking 17 inch rubber. Keep going, your getting closer.

[wog]

Now for the fun part...

[wog]

The other side yielded an ever better collection of precious crystals

[wog]

Back at it.
I signed up for the VJMC Florida rally at Silver River state park on Nov. 2nd, so now I have a deadline to make to get this back on the road.
I can always take the '86, but would really like to bring this bike.

I made a tool to remove the very stubborn steering head nut out of an old 1-1/16" socket. Worked like a charm.

GL1000 teardown 018.jpg

I was going to powder coat the forks silver, but since they're not leaking, I decided to just polish them. I usually dismantle and install new fork seals, but since these don't leak, I hope to get by with just a fluid change. What's your guy's opinion on this? Should I change the seals now, while things are disassembled even though they don't leak, or not?

GL1000 teardown 019.jpg

[Fred Camper]

Do you know the age of the seals and are the sliders smooth without pits? I would not change them without a reason or known concern.

Wow, nice polishing for sure.

[wog]

Do you know the age of the seals and are the sliders smooth without pits? I would not change them without a reason or known concern.

I'm sure they're 38 years old. I believe the only thing that has been changed on this bike was the oil and maybe the tires! There's no leaks now, I'm just wondering if the same thing that happens when I flush and change antifreeze in my cars or trucks will happen to the fork seals. Seems like right after the new fluid in is, the water pump fails, the thermostat gives up or the radiator starts to leak, etc., etc., etc.

Great news on the motor, it's free (although the kick starter is still frozen).

[wog]

Picked up a can of "Leakseal" from H Depot today for under the fenders.
I've used it on other projects and seems to hold up very well. Almost like a spray-on pickup bed liner.