GL1000 1976 - Head gasket

[nicdes]

Yep, this is part 33 (ref #957010602800) on this part list : https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-gl1000-usa_ ... /0014.html
https://www.cmsnl.com/products/bolt-fla ... 010602800/
Thanks for your advice, I will replace with the original ref

[nicdes]

Hi,
Some news after this week-end.
I'm still waiting for a tool to remove the valve spring and start with the head cleaning. I may get it next week...
So I started to clean the block and changed my neutral switch following this very good topic : https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=14520.
Some picture of the engine :

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I guess it's clean enough, but I'm not sure. What else would you do ?

[gltriker]

What's your plan to correct the corrosion damage on both cylinder heads' gasket sùrface ?

[Sidecar Bob]

Here's what I used to remove the valve springs
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 75#p721718

[Whiskerfish]

Looks clean enough!! I would hit it with a straight edge at many angles just to ensure that it is flat.

[Gowing]

I used one of my small rectangular snowski edge stones to clean the corrosion off my block.

[nicdes]

What's your plan to correct the corrosion damage on both cylinder heads' gasket sùrface ?

Hi,
The same tools I used for the block would not be enough ?
I mean wd40 + scotchbrite + plastic scraper and control with a straight edge ?

[nicdes]

Here's what I used to remove the valve springs
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 75#p721718

I had seen it, looks great !! I already found something I bought but I'd really like to make some of my own tools...maybe later.

[nicdes]

I started the work with the head. First is removing the valves. I found some weird things

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[nicdes]

These two springs couples seem to be mounted upside down. I guess the engine can not run at his best if they are not well mounted.
It makes me remind something I read here : "never trust the mechanic that worked before you"

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[gltriker]

What's your plan to correct the corrosion damage on both cylinder heads' gasket sùrface ?

Hi,
The same tools I used for the block would not be enough ?
I mean wd40 + scotchbrite + plastic scraper and control with a straight edge ?

[Sidecar Bob]

I was told this method for cleaning mating surfaces by a long time Honda mechanic and later found the same thing in the Honda Common Service Manual:
- Put something in the oil and water passages to keep debris from getting into them. I like to twist some toilet paper or rag into ropes and push them in just deep enough that the tools won't catch them and pull them out but not so deep they are hard to remove.
- Use a razor blade or an Olfa type knife to remove as much of the old gasket as possible
- When you have removed all you can that way take a fresh sharpening stone that has never been used to sharpen anything (must be flat and free of oil or other contaminants), dip it into clean water a drop or 2 of detergent won't hurt) and rub it against the surface you are preparing in a circular motion. Periodically dip the stone back into the water to clean it and wipe off the surface you are preparing and if there are still bits of gasket or sealant repeat until the surface is smooth & shiny.

There was some discussion a year or 2 ago about the damage abrasive particles from Scotchbrite pads can do if they get into the oil stream. Since then I don't use it on anything I can't flush thoroughly afterward.

[nicdes]

There was some discussion a year or 2 ago about the damage abrasive particles from Scotchbrite pads can do if they get into the oil stream. Since then I don't use it on anything I can't flush thoroughly afterward.

Hi Bob,
Your comment has triggered a huge stress !
I have read many things about the damages scotchbrite pads can do on an engine if used and not thoroughly cleaned.
I used kitchen green pads (not scotchbrite but another brand that surely uses the same componants to produce). I used it on the block by hand or with the scrapper only...do you think the damage is done ?
What are my options as I can't flush it without opening the engine ?

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[Sidecar Bob]

Make the first oil change interval short, maybe 100-150 Km.

[nicdes]

- When you have removed all you can that way take a fresh sharpening stone that has never been used to sharpen anything (must be flat and free of oil or other contaminants), dip it into clean water a drop or 2 of detergent won't hurt) and rub it against the surface you are preparing in a circular motion. Periodically dip the stone back into the water to clean it and wipe off the surface you are preparing and if there are still bits of gasket or sealant repeat until the surface is smooth & shiny.
There was some discussion a year or 2 ago about the damage abrasive particles from Scotchbrite pads can do if they get into the oil stream. Since then I don't use it on anything I can't flush thoroughly afterward.

The Honda mechanics from where I buy my spare parts told me and showed me yesterday exactly the same thing. He uses a sharpening stone and bannish the use of scotchbrite !
From what I have seen sharpening stone can be made with aluminium oxyde or silicon carbide abrasive. I also found arkansas stone. Which one should be the best ?
I guess I should avoid the one with aluminium oxyde as it's what makes scotchbrite bad for our engines...