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Polishing may be a dull, tedious job, but it is SO rewarding! Well done.

Spent a couple of hours this aft installing new headlight (Bikemaster sold by Fortnine here in Canada) and replica front turn signals by the same seller. Had to wire in grounds as the replicas for the turnsignals were grounded through the attachment and did not want ground failure due to the headlight ears being rubber mounted, so connected the headlight mounts to a ground off the factory wiring harness. After I was done installed the Honda emblem between the forks that was purchased earlier from an Ebay seller. The front end now looks like as close as "dam is to swearing" like an OEM setup IMHO without the reflectors on the headlight ears.

I'm getting ready to replace the timing belt and polish the timing cover, and valve covers. Just wondering did you put a clear coat over it after done it just leave it with out?

240zron wrote:I'm getting ready to replace the timing belt and polish the timing cover, and valve covers. Just wondering did you put a clear coat over it after done it just leave it with out?

I did not clearcoat. IMHO moisture or other contaminants getting under clearcoat causes corrosion and I have seen where others have reported some dulling or discoloring(yellowing) due to the clearcoat. Once the covers are polished it just seems easier to me to keep them shiny by using aluminum polish (like mothers) than to have to deal with clearcoat again. I did my 83 approx a year and a half ago and left them without clear as well. I did apply some wax/polish after buffing them. They are still as nice as when I buffed them. One caveat though, I store my bikes in my garage and am anal about keeping them clean.
Make sure to use a mask, safety googles (or full visor) and gloves when polishing. The fine particles coming off the buffing wheel get everywhere, eyes & nose included. The parts also get quite warm when buffing. The parts on the 83 were done in my shop during winter months. In doing the 78 the buffer was moved outdoors to prevent my shop etc from being covered by buffing material and to better able me to keep the particles out of my eyes etc. Just a heads up!

Little bit done the past while. Cold outside but the shop warms up nicely. Wired and installed the rear turn signals. Replica's by Bike Master and sold by Fortnine here in Canada. I am pleased with them, however at the time I ordered there weren't any rear turn signals in stock so these are actually dual filament fronts which are the same shape etc. so just clipped the wire that activates the running light filament. It is against code to show an amber rear running light here in Canada. Didn't notice that I was missing a rear light screw until posting this pic. The hunt is on!

Put the Corbin Gunfighter that I bought for a welcome home gift in place to see how it looked and like the appearance. Now don't know whether to go stock (excellent condition) or Gunfighter with the grab bar attached?

Nice canvase to begin your Rembrandt. Looking forward to the build.

One would argue the gunfighter will be more comfortable than the stock one....

wingrider wrote:One would argue the gunfighter will be more comfortable than the stock one....

Ya I am thinking that too. If I remember back to 79 when I had my new Gl1000, and I don't always remember , the oem seat was never that comfy but that was the time of two up riding so a King/queen was installed. I do think the gunfighter is going to look great but never sat on one for any time.

Read so many good reviews about braided stainless steel brakelines that I thought this was a good time to install them on my bike. Still trying to get them bled properly but thinking that they will be a good addition. They are Apex lines and seem to be very nice quality.

Nice! I like the look of the sliver lines (makes note to self).

Finally got my 2001 Harley Sportster slip-ons installed. They look good IMHO and I like how they sound.Fairly easy to install.

I love what you have done with the polishing. This is an art I am trying to learn myself. I did some experiments with some small pieces and I can see great possibilities. I have chrome timing and rocker covers but yours are way nicer after polishing. I am going to have a go at polishing some timing covers that I have and see how they turn out.

Thanx Liam, I have admired your work on restoration a lot. Really like the way you dig in and do the work to bring stuff back to life. You seem to pay attention to parts that aren't readily visible. I hear what you say about chrome plating on valve covers, timing belt covers etc. Once they are pitted etc. very hard to bring them back to their former glory. Polishing aluminum is very rewarding and given time most parts can be restored to a glossy finish. I have found that the first step being removing all the clear coat is an absolute must. A good automotive stripper containing Methylene Chloride makes short work of the clear coat. Make sure to do in a well ventilated area and don't breath fumes or get on your skin (some serious side effects with improper use) . Most of these strippers are now banned this side of the pond. I have found that most of the readily available strippers are next to useless. After stripping I use two 6" sisal wheels side by side on a 3/4 horse motor to do the polishing with the brownish/red buffing compounds. Finer polishes are available but not really needed for my purposes.Wear good gloves as the parts get quite warm while polishing and keep a firm grip on the pieces as they can be grabbed by the polishing wheel and deposited many feet from your station.Enjoy the polishing. Very rewarding.

I love the look but hate the work. So my bikes are kinda flea bitten.

I've found carb cleaner on Scotchbite pads pretty good at removing Honda clearcoat from aluminum, but softer wire wheels used lightly can work also.