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wannabridin wrote:Thanks for that info Rat. Do you mean the small hole in the top underneath the button? Or is air/vacuum supposed to flow around the button to/from atmosphere?

Otherwise, what's the best recommendation to check the condition of the carb top's functionality?

Turn the vacuum cap upside down and dribble some liquid into the vacuum piston guide bore. (The hole you polish)
The liquid should flow out into the cap via a small, side drilled hole at the intersection of the vacuum piston guide base and the vacuum cap, itself.
Partial blockage of that passage would definitely impede the reaction response of the vacuum piston. ( AKA , the slide)

gltriker wrote:

wannabridin wrote:Thanks for that info Rat. Do you mean the small hole in the top underneath the button? Or is air/vacuum supposed to flow around the button to/from atmosphere?

Otherwise, what's the best recommendation to check the condition of the carb top's functionality?

Turn the vacuum cap upside down and dribble some liquid into the vacuum piston guide bore. (The hole you polish)
The liquid should flow out into the cap via a small, side drilled hole at the intersection of the vacuum piston guide base and the vacuum cap, itself.
Partial blockage of that passage would definitely impede the drop rate of the #1 vacuum piston. ( AKA , the slide)

And there should be NO leaks to atmosphere...

Track T 2411 wrote:

gltriker wrote:

wannabridin wrote:Thanks for that info Rat. Do you mean the small hole in the top underneath the button? Or is air/vacuum supposed to flow around the button to/from atmosphere?

Otherwise, what's the best recommendation to check the condition of the carb top's functionality?

Turn the vacuum cap upside down and dribble some liquid into the vacuum piston guide bore. (The hole you polish)
The liquid should flow out into the cap via a small, side drilled hole at the intersection of the vacuum piston guide base and the vacuum cap, itself.
Partial blockage of that passage would definitely impede the drop rate of the #1 vacuum piston. ( AKA , the slide)

And there should be NO leaks to atmosphere...

oooooops! my statement about the #1 vacuum piston was in reference to another topic, not this one.

Thoughts on the Melber mock up?? Should I use it or swap back to spokes??? A big part of me still loves the high shoulder spoke look and the stock GL wheels have JUST that!

Anyone want to buy some Melbers, hahaha!

Small updates:

Ordered another set of replacement tensioner springs (Bike Bandit is unresponsive and VERY slow to ship) and i want to button that job up. Received my front engine seal kit. Worked on the carbs a little more, but i'm about ready to reassemble one half of them then start on the other half. Randakks videos are thorough, but sometimes a bit wonky, mixed with a lack of free time...

Pulled the front wheel so I can swap tires (eventually) and hopefully sell it. "Found" some progressive fork springs, so I'll swap to those for now, then eventually do emulators, straight springs and SKF seals. Installed the Koni shocks (can see them in the pic). Ordered a stainless rear brake line to "match" the fronts.

Father in law gave me some take off Harley parts which included some soft sided saddlebags that just might work with a simple bracket or two (they have a molded backside). Mocked up some (3) LED strips for the brake light (knight riderz LED bars) and they'll fit just fine under the stock lens.

Still need to order new tires (hopefully the BT46), will likely stick w/ the spoke wheels (After a cleanup and light polish and new bearings). I forgot about the mirrored drill pattern on the rear brake disc (my old machinist made a goof), so hopefully that doesn't drive me too crazy. Got a quote from Sargent on re-covering my Corbin seat ($200, 6-8 week lead time), so that's not as bad as I thought!

Ticking away a little at a time, all I can do....

"Anyone want to buy some Melbers, hahaha!"

Bet they would pay for a really nice pair of spoked wheels ....

Gord

I've a set of stock spoke wheels that are in surprisingly great shape, so those might get cleaned up and used for awhile...

Well, made progress on the carbs - have half built. Broke an idle nozzle, but was able to carefully drill it out and thankfully Old Fogey has some spares to send me! I'll get that installed later on.
Pulled the front cover to replace the shift arm spring, clean it up and do the gaskets/seals.

Devised a new tail light based on some lights I have sitting in boxes, that's an Ohmics intelligent based light. It's programmable and has an accelerometer in it to give different braking responses for deceleration rates. Pretty neat! I'll likely use 1 or 2 "Knight Riderz" led bars and some Oznium high intensity led bolts for additional "WATCH OUT" visibility.

P.S. forgive the rotated shots, still can't get that to work correctly....

Well, almost completely done w/ the carbs, just waiting on the emulsion tube and I'll be done (save a few button head screws).

Got the final drive cleaned up and re-lubed the splines and pins w/ some M77.

Currently cleaning up the front cover, it was covered with gunk and some old paint. Replaced the shifter spring with one recommended on here, and it was certainly a stronger spring, should help shifts be more positive and stay engaged on the shift drum. I pulled the water pump to replace all the seals (since I have the set), but I noticed what looked like a drain hole or something and it had grease in it. Is that a lubrication port for the water pump shaft?

Ordered some BT46 tires to go on the factory spokes. Bridgestone currently has a $40 rebate if you buy two tires, so after it was all said and done, those only cost $230 shipped. I'll install them myself, so that will make the deal even sweeter.

Next up is cleaning up the swingarm, rear wheel and whatnot. Have to mount the new tire when it arrives. Need to install the stainless brake line out back and clean up the rear master cylinder some (paint is flaking off from the PO). I'll likely wait to do the hydraulic clutch, as I will probably get matching Nissan master cylinders for the bars.

I'll order some coolant pipe o-rings and gaskets, as I want to clean those up along with the top of the motor.

Making some steady progress, not nearly as fast as I want, but it's coming along!

wannabridin wrote:snip........... but I noticed what looked like a drain hole or something and it had grease in it. Is that a lubrication port for the water pump shaft?

That is the weep hole for the pump. It should be clear.

.

robin1731 wrote:

wannabridin wrote:snip........... but I noticed what looked like a drain hole or something and it had grease in it. Is that a lubrication port for the water pump shaft?

That is the weep hole for the pump. It should be clear.

The pump itself has a weephole? Good to know, i had a hunch that could be it, but wasn't certain. There was some residual grease in there, and some remnant grease around the interface between the front cover and the water pump, so I don't know what was up with that. Should I worry about cleaning it all out of anything leftover?

Thanks Robin, good to know.

side note, ordered an electric fuel pump, Facet FEP304SV. 1-2 psi. Will need to make a bracket for it and wire it up, but it will be here ready for install someday. (i'll incorporate a lean switch on it too, so it'll turn off past a lean angle threshold.)

the weep hole is to let you know if the seals are failing. it should be unblocked of any road grime

rcmatt007 wrote:the weep hole is to let you know if the seals are failing. it should be unblocked of any road grime

I know that hole, mine was clean and dry. I'm talking about the actual hole on the pump.

them pump hole goes up to the shaft. if it is leaking from the coolant side it will spill coolant. If it is leaking from the other side it will be oil. Also, it is REALLY easy to pinch the big O-ring putting it together and it will leak around that. You need to replace the crush washers on the three bolts tat hold the pump or they can leak as well