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I replaced my brake lines with stainless lines. That gave me banjo fitting on both ends. Just be sure and put the banjo bolt into the master cylinder before bolting up the MC because you will need (probably) to twist your line a bit and that is very hard to do with just the bolt on the end of the line.

Thanks Easter for your reply,
Did your new hose go then from the master cylinder directly to the rear caliper? (skipping the splitter and delinking the front caliper from the system)

Yes, it is a single brake line with banjos on both ends. This is an '80 and did not have linked brakes. But I did de-link my '83.

This has me wondering if that spare rear brake Master cylinder I have for my 2000 Kawasaki Nomad might also be a viable part for my GL1000. I'll have to look into that in the near future. Unfortunately I'll be working 12 hour nights for the next 3 days and I seem to get nothing done when i am on nights. This might be a good job for my upcoming 2 weeks off. Freedom starts next Tuesday at 6 pm. By freedom I mean my normal 8 day break followed by an additional 4 days vacation and 2 more normally scheduled off days which equals a nice 14 day break.

Also, if you want to keep your linked rear brake, russell and Aeroquip make adapters allowing you to put a banjo bolt fitting on a steel line. Just gotta do a google search

Bear151556a wrote:Also, if you want to keep your linked rear brake, russell and Aeroquip make adapters allowing you to put a banjo bolt fitting on a steel line. Just gotta do a google search

Actually, all that is required is to remove the brass insert from inside the outlet of the MC. A banjo bolt will thread in but will not go deep enough to seal unless this insert is removed. I have used easy-outs to extract them.

edit---Sorry, my typing got ahead of my reading. Linked brakes will present a different issue. If you decide to keep them be sure the master cylinder is sized to suite both front and back brakes.

Hi everyone. I'm a mechanic that for some reason said I would tackle fixing my friends 83 Gl1100's brakes. Lines where completely closed off and the rear M/C was bad. I got new lines but got them for the linked brakes. Then found out how bad my MC was and now im down the line of swapping in the GL1800 MC. It seems its the consensus that you need to un-link your brakes to do this. Well finally found the adapter we need to use the GL1800 master and keep the stock hard line from the MC to the front/rear proportioning valve. It is from www.Belmetric.com Its a M10x1 inverted flare to 10mm banjo. You will only have to slightly bend your hard line up to align everything up. I honestly made an account just to put this info on this thread as most google searches eventually lead to this thread someway or another.

https://belmetric.com/m10x1-0-metric-br ... 1.0DF4.75

Sorry for the late reply (I didn't notice this earlier). The 1100's so-called "proportioning valve" is actually just a splitter. The proportioning is accomplished by using calipers with different sized pistons.

Thanks for this tip of using a 1800 master cylinder
I did this mod on my GL1100 sidecar.
Here is some picts of my adaptation :

I taped to M5 one of the M4 holes of the cylinder :
I cut about 13mm of the threated pushing rod of the cylinder :
I made the adaptation plate in aluminium 8mm thickness :
The cylindr in place, retained by one screw M8 and one screw M5 :

Measurements of the adaptation plate :

nice work.