The NGW Project Bike. Body/frame/style

[octane]

More slow progress,
even though this doesn't exactly look like "progress":






..the thing is; I'm not really a fan of the Dyna ignition set up,
after having one breaking down on me, and reading about several others
with the same experience,
but I really wanted to install their DynaTek
Hi-Performance Ignition coils, wires etc.
to give that extra spark-punch now that the engine
will suck in quite a bit more fuel
(and the yellow wires don't look too bad either .-)




and in order to get the full
benefit of the coils one need to install the Ignition System as well,
so that one can get rid of the original ballast resistor.(*)

...and while I was at it; why not take he whole
false-tank thing apart and clean up that unholy wire-mess.
Phew!..lots of wires, including quite a few non-original ones.
Looks like an alarm-system of some sort.




.
(*)
There's some confusion on this thing.
There's a good thread on it here
with a link to a very informative piece on the subject on Randakks site.

Now to ad to the confusion; my above set came
with a resistor with exactly same size and shape as the OEM (see photo)
(unfortunately I'm not able to measure the ohm's on it today),
but the 'instructions' makes no mention of it (!!!!).

Anyway:
The instructions says:
"...it may be used with other coils that have at least THREE OHMS resistance, in which case the ballast resistor will be bypassed..."
Three OHM is what the Hi-Performance coils have (on the primary side).
The OEM's are aprox. 2 OHMS (again on the primary side)
and the instructions for the DynaTec coils says;

"...generally a ballast resistor should not be used with DYNA COILS on electronic ignition..."
OK...so electronic ignition (like the Dyna) ---> no ballast resistor.

[octane]

PS:

if you want my advise:

Don't EVER use that 'splice connector'
that comes with the Dyna set



the connection is a joke
and I've seen a few simply fry up both them-selves and the wires:

The connection can be so very poor that the current
is forced to travel over a very very tiny area
------> lots of resistance-------> lots of heat


Leaving your whole ability to get a spark on your plugs,
in the hands of that flimsy
piece of ......er.....plastic, in not such a good idea.
Make a proper connection. Ideally you should solder it in.

My 214 cents !

[rufussrgnt]

Octane is 100% correct. NEVER use this type of connector. They were originally designed for solid (single conductor) wire and were known as "displation" connectors. On solid wire, they actually made a gas tight connection. On stranded wire, they are a joke. The decision, to market them for stranded wire was made by marketing types, not engineers.

[JCLUTTS]

I have been known to drag people that use these things in to the street and shoot them. they are one of the worst connecters (or should i say wire cutters) ever made. in my industry people that use them are fired on the spot.

clutts

[octane]

...so I take it
that you guys agree


.-)




.

[Frenchy]

Hate to stir the pot, but no I don't agree! The problem I've run across with these connectors, has been due to the installer, not the connector.. I've been an industrial/commercial electrician for going on thirty years. These have been approved for use by engineers & the National Fire Protection Agency for use on stranded wire.

The most common error I've seen, is when someone doesn't use the proper tool to crimp them! Another problem would be that the secondary wire is not properly seated in the connector.. I've seen a few other problems, but they all boil down to user error.............

Sorry guys, but I have used these things for years with NO problems!

[octane]

Hate to stir the pot..

That's all fine .-)
We can disagree all we want and it's still fine.
That's one of the beauties of living in 'our' world
and not in, let's say; North Korea.

Tell me;
what IS the 'proper tool' to crimp them ?

[RebelRouser]

I Have To Agree With Frenchy On This One One Because The Dayna On My Bike Is Wired This Way, And That Was Not The Cause Of It's Failier, And Two, And This One Most People Do Not Know, Electricity Dose Not Flow Through Copper Wires It Flows On Top, The Invent Of Stranded Wire Was The Best Improvement To Coper Wire And Electricity, The More Strands The Common Places For The Electrical Current To Flow The Less Resistance, Now That School Is Over, To The Point, Ever Check The Resistance On One Of Those Conectors, Allmost ZERO. A Aspde Or Two Way .001, Graduate Of The Lenkurt Electrical Lab.... But I Still Perfer Solder Connections Above All Others 8)

[Frenchy]

The tool of choice would be a small pair of slip joint pliers. Preferably a channel lock type. You need something that will fully contact both surfaces. This way you can ensure that you are pushing the spice plate (for lack of the proper term) is being properly seated.

Probably the absolute worse tool for the job would be a pair of diagonal cutter!! I've seen people use there, & it's cause all kinds of problems..

[octane]

Gentlemen!
Allow me to disagree.

...... But I Still Perfer Solder Connections Above All Others 8)

...
Probably the absolute worse tool for the job would be a pair of diagonal cutter!! ...

Gentlemen!
Allow me to agree.




.-)

[Rat]

Its really hard to have this kinda discussion without sitting around the same table. Preferably in a PUB!

Gord

[Jay]

These connectors have there place (most would say in the garbage).
I use them where needed . Like Frenchy said the biggest problem is user error.

[octane]

Its really hard to have this kinda discussion without sitting around the same table. Preferably in a PUB!

Gord

HEY GUYS:
come over here to my workshop !!!
There's beer in fridge !






AAAAAAnyways;
I didn't use any of the connectors for the coil/wire set-up either.

I really like these ones:



which you seal by applying heat, and the colored' stuff you see
on them melts down and 'glue'/seal the connection:



Overkill? Maybe...but I like'em .

For the heat treatment I use
another of my favorites;
this micro-heat-gun:




..it has a 'shield' at the tip
that allows you to single out one particular wire/connection
within a bundle of wires
without interfering with the others




In fact it's just a cheapo lighter with a 'mesh' burner
(no flame) attached



..it's real nifty and dirt cheap.



So now the coils/wires are ready for installation

[Jay]

Those are the type we use at work. They work great .

[JCLUTTS]

ok i will say this and i am done on this subject. the best connection is no connection. period end of story. but this is not a perfect world. the use of wire and connecters is a must. the goal is a connection with the least amont of loss and in every connection and wire there is loss. so if the least amont of connections with the most surface area is ideal. Why use a device with one of the least amounts of surface area and one of the most connections. we could probibly all agree that soldered or welded connections are probibly the best but can not easily be disconnected. so some type of spade (m/f/) or lug (with hardware) is better for quick disconnect with out cuttting. scotch locks and the other quick disconnect form called t taps will never and i repeat never be used in any shop i work at or anything i own. they are a sign of lazyness and of cutting corners. and also engineers also say wire is wire and that is just stupid there are differant types of materials and purities that make some better and it is not just advertisingand if anyone disagrees on the wire thing i cam proove it.


clutts