NGWClub®, Inc.

looks like your ready for vintagedays. some good upgrades on the brakes

Ready for the East Coast Run for sure. Sure do like the improved voltage at idle now that the majority of aux lighting is LED (smd 1, smd 5, and two superbrite types in the front blinkers and tail light). That and the MOFSET regulator now allow some room for accessory power.

Just reviewed your thread.

I do like me some "BadDog" now and then.

Update regarding newer accessory and ignition load relay. Mentioned earlier in my post, usb charging efforts off ignition feed failed due to inadequate voltage to the cigarette lighter adapter. Issue solved since I installed this relay.

The wire you run up front to the relay needs to be 12 gauge or larger. I say this as later you may put your headlights on a relay and this same wire then works for those two relays as well.

You need to have adequate electrical power of course, so read up on LED's above if you think your bike is limited in accessory power. But when the stator output is fine, the addition of a relay gets the USB charger to get the phone charged in about 2 hours.

Fred Camper wrote:Update regarding newer accessory and ignition load relay. Mentioned earlier in my post, usb charging efforts off ignition feed failed due to inadequate voltage to the cigarette lighter adapter. Issue solved since I installed this relay.

The wire you run up front to the relay needs to be 12 gauge or largee. I say this as later you may put your headlights on a relay and this same wire then works for those two relays as well.

You need to have adequate electrical power of course, so read up on LED's above if you think your bike is limited in accessory power. But when the stator output is fine, the addition of a relay gets the USB charger to get the phone charged in about 2 hours.

Are you speaking english, Jeff? lectricity issues boggle my feeble mind!

Yes, I do speak englectricty so if you need a translater please invite me down to share your beverages.

Fred Camper wrote:Yes, I do speak englectricty so if you need a translater please invite me down to share your beverages.

For polkadot you need to translate it to Lawyerese. But then the rest of us wouldn't be able to understand it.

robin1731 wrote:

Fred Camper wrote:Yes, I do speak englectricty so if you need a translater please invite me down to share your beverages.

For polkadot you need to translate it to Lawyerese. But then the rest of us wouldn't be able to understand it.

Yes, there is no end at that point. Oldewing needs aeroplanese, Roady needs fillyese, and I could go on and on...

Lost in Translation.

Fred Camper wrote:

robin1731 wrote:

Fred Camper wrote:Yes, I do speak englectricty so if you need a translater please invite me down to share your beverages.

For polkadot you need to translate it to Lawyerese. But then the rest of us wouldn't be able to understand it.

Yes, there is no end at that point. Oldewing needs aeroplanese, Roady needs fillyese, and I could go on and on...

Ok guys: You are always welcome to stop in a share a beverage, but the Lawyerese must stay otherwise everyone would understand that we do not really understand "stuff" ourselves.

Exactly why there are different languages in I.T. and graphic arts.

Here is the process used to update the front transmission cover screws from the "cream cheese' cross point screws to proper Stainless Steel Allen Bolts. This process applies to GL1000's as later bikes have hex fasteners for the front cover. This is well documented in the How 2 4 Wings thread with yellow pointers.

There are nine cross point JIS screws (some call them Phillips but these are Japanese bikes and they are actual JIS Cross Point screws). After 30 years on the bike, these screws are not going to come out with a cross point screwdriver alone.

This job will not be completed without removing the radiator first. You need room to work.

This process is documented here in the how to: http://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13108

Randall Washington has documented it here: http://www.randakksblog.com/water-pump- ... #more-1093

I have paraphrased below.

Step 1, spray all nine screws with penetrating oil. PB Blaster seems to be the best. Use what you have.

Step 2, while the penetrating oil soaks into the threads, order replacement screws from Robin1731 at NGW, using email: geaster@tc3net.com. The price is fair and you get the correct length (no extra hardware store trips). You will also need a hand impact driver with a significant assortment of #3 Phillips Bits (25mm, 50mm, 80mm) and a large straight bit (usually comes with the driver). A quarter inch drive universal joint is helpful as is a name brand Vice-Grip or two (the needle nose was most helpful for me)

Step 3, place the impact driver with a #3 Phillips bit of optimal length to get a straight shot at the first screw. Be sure the impact driver is set left, to loosen the screw. Check to ensure it is loosening first on a scrap block of wood if you have any doubt. Insert the bit into the screw, rotate the impact driver left as to loosen the screw, and while holding counterclockwise torque, now hit the driver with a hammer repeatedly until it starts to turn.


I was able to remove 5 of the 9 screws on my 1977 with this method.


Step 4, on remaining screws, hit the head of the screw with a drift (a 3/8th inch steel rod is fine) until the head of the screw becomes somewhat flattened.


Step 5, pound a #3 Phillips screwdriver back into the stuck screw to reform the grip surface.


Step 6, repeat step 3


Still stymied? If so, perhaps you have lost grip with the #3 Phillips bit.

Step 7, consider cutting a slot in the head if possible. This is also the time to add heat using a propane or better torch. Heat expands metal it is contracts as it cools. The repeated heating and cooling can loosen the screw a bit.

The slot and heat aided me with the left side upper screw which as the hardest to align the impact driver. Even with a slot, I was not able to get full rotation of the screw due to the restricted angle of access but could make it turn about 180 degrees.

Step 8, if you have enough head surface available, clamp on the needle nose vice grip and slowly remove the screw, a 1/8th rotation at a time.

Your results may vary.

Your results may veary....along with words chosen for each "work detail"


Sounds like you got it all in one there Sir, well done.



time to ride yet???

Can you translate it into 'beereze'?

Gord