NGWClub®, Inc.

UPDATE - For posterity, here is what it looks like behind the seal. There is a drainage port, so tiny bits may work their way down to the sump. Personally, I'm not planning to mess with the oil strainer this time around since it's tight to the frame and I don't want to mess with another 44 year old petrified gasket.

also that gasket is made of unobtanium

FWIW, Athena provides a round o-ring in their kits to replace the oil strainer "gasket" (actually a rectangular o-ring).

Yowza! I'd be pretty flustered by bits of metal that large possibly migrating around inside my engine. I'm glad you fished out the big parts.

I feel your reluctance to open up the strainer screen cover, what with the closeness to the frame. It comes down to your level of concern with metal bits. There's more access if you do pull it. I'd probably remove the motor to make it easier to break loose those JIS screws.

It sounds like a lot of work, but a GL motor can come out in about an hour once the carbs are off - or less for someone who's done it a few times. I've done it twice and would budget 90 minutes, with about a third of it spent removing the circlip for the driveshaft. It goes in nearly as easily.

rcmatt007 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 29, 2024 3:56 pm also that gasket is made of unobtanium

If I'm not mistaken, my recent Vesrah GL1000 gasket kit came with a strainer cover gasket. It's been a couple years, so I could be mistaken.

I wonder if you supported the engine and undid just the sub frame on the left and the engine mounts if it would be possible to move t he engine to the left enough to get at that more easily?

Or possibly take the motor mounts loose and let the motor sit down on the frame. Never done this so I don’t know if it’ll help or not but many years ago when I was much younger and ambitious I considered doing that to clean all that to remove any manufacturing debris, but I wussed out !

Some pics of the process to take out the screen viewtopic.php?t=14520#p124339