1978 GL1000 Resto Mod

[GalDemSuga]

The 1200 shocks I rebuilt were off our 1200 (but I bet you can find them on ebay(. I got the parts needed from one of the online honda parts (I think chaparral)
For my current projects I am going with progressive rear shocks.

Ok got it. I need to find some 1200 air shocks as I like the idea of air ride.

[GalDemSuga]

My To Do Lists:

1. Valve Seals
2. Timing Belts
3. Front Shocks
4. Rear Shocks
5. Final Drive Leaks
6. Carbs Rebuild
7. Front and Rear Brake Master Cylinder Rebuild
8. Clean Oil of Wire Loom and Frame.
9. Install Polaris SH775
10. Install Headlight Relay Mod
11. Master Ignition Mod
12. Upgrade Coils and Do Coil Relay Mod
13. Add Front and Rear Turn Signals
14. Add 12 Volt Accessory Points
15.Cosmetics--Paint Tank Shelters
16. Find a Headlight Globe
17. Replace Gear Selector Seal.
18. Fix Neutral Light in All Gears
19. Fix Leaking Tach Cable at Cyl Head
20. Upgrade Fuse Box

[GalDemSuga]

What function does "The Stick" play?
I need front fork caps with individual air valves. As you see in one picture the oil from forks went all over and into the wire harness. The Final Drive leaks in 3 places.

[GalDemSuga]

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[pidjones]

I need front fork caps with individual air valves. As you see in one picture the oil from forks went all over and into the wire harness. The Final Drive leaks in 3 places.

No, you don't. GL1000 forks don't need air or air caps. It will cause them to leak. Install standard caps and rebuild the forks with new seals. Don't know what "the stick" is. Never seen one before.

I don't see any final drive leaks, just the gasket oozing some and some chipped paint. BTW, there is a grease fitting there, but it is best to every 100k miles or so pull the joint apart, clean, and regrease with high-moly grease.

[rcmatt007]

agree you do notneed air caps, probably just new o rings and seals. rear drive looks good, once again new o rings at the cap

[GalDemSuga]

I need front fork caps with individual air valves. As you see in one picture the oil from forks went all over and into the wire harness. The Final Drive leaks in 3 places.

No, you don't. GL1000 forks don't need air or air caps. It will cause them to leak. Install standard caps and rebuild the forks with new seals. Don't know what "the stick" is. Never seen one before.

I don't see any final drive leaks, just the gasket oozing some and some chipped paint. BTW, there is a grease fitting there, but it is best to every 100k miles or so pull the joint apart, clean, and regrease with high-moly grease.

The Final Drive was pressure washed so it looks clean but the areas I pointed at were all leaking. 10-4 on the fork caps. I will have to find some that are the correct size and threads.

[GalDemSuga]

My lists keeps growing the more I look I will begin with sorting leaks at the engine. The valve seals have likely been updated by Honda since 1978.

[pidjones]

Valve seals? Why do you suspect them? Is it smoking badly (other than at startup)?

[GalDemSuga]

Valve seals? Why do you suspect them? Is it smoking badly (other than at startup)?

I’m getting smoke at start up and after warming up, if I give it some throttle, I get smoke out of both banks. I keep the bike on the center stand always. I understand all these parts to be original as the bike only has 13,000 km on it. Should I go with the OEM seals or should I try something new?

[pidjones]

I would wait another couple tanks of fuel, and if you still want to change them, go with modern seals (but, the original seals were fine fo many years). I've used the modern Viton seals primarily for temperature resistance. Seals can be changed without removing the heads by jambing the valves up with rope fed through the plug hole.

[GalDemSuga]

I would wait another couple tanks of fuel, and if you still want to change them, go with modern seals (but, the original seals were fine fo many years). I've used the modern Viton seals primarily for temperature resistance. Seals can be changed without removing the heads by jambing the valves up with rope fed through the plug hole.

I am very much inclined to take your advice and wait on the valve seals and hear is why. The bike is not smoking on start up anymore and I think it was smoking because when I stored it, I left the petcock on, and as a result, fuel leaked out of the bowls on the top of the engine, and probably down into the intake. Now, when I start the bike, there is no smoke, but after it warms up, if I blip the throttle, I get small amounts of smoke out of both sides. It smells more like excess fuel than it does oil and it’s white in color. I know the carbs have to be gone through as they leaked and I probably have sticking float needles resulting in excess fuel going into the intake. I plan on running the engine a few more times just to be certain of all the oil leaks.
My engine oil level does not have the sight glass, but some sort of metal gauge. The bike starts very easy with choke and once it warms up it idles without issue. When I first got it years ago, it was hard starting because I did not understand what I was doing. I was constantly leaving the petcock on and as a result, I might’ve been flooding the carburetors. Since pressure washing the engine, I’ve only seen two spots of oil on the ground, which I have not closely looked at as yet. Since I’ve gotten in to the habit of turning the fuel off, there is no longer leaking carbs onto the top of the engine.

[pidjones]

You might try looking at the sight glass area with a UV flashlight. Some of the GL1000s have a "wiper" operated by a slotted screw in the center of the sight glass. It doesn't really help, and confuses people. A UV light usually will make the oil glow green.

[NotSoLilCrippseys]

Others here know a lot more than me on these bikes, but I've turned a few of them around at this point. Don't sweat a little smoke, either at start up or when blipping the throttle - at least not while you're still just figuring out what works and what you need to work on. If you're really worried about the condition of the motor, you can do compression and leakdown tests.

I don't see the leaks at the final drive, even with the finger pointing. But maybe I'm missing something. To my eye, all looks pretty normal back there. I see what looks like dried grease and grime. Pull the drive when you swap the tire out, clean it all up, lube, and go - probably.

I'd love to see pics of what's attached to "The Stick."

On the other side of this build you'll have a really fun ride.

[GalDemSuga]

Others here know a lot more than me on these bikes, but I've turned a few of them around at this point. Don't sweat a little smoke, either at start up or when blipping the throttle - at least not while you're still just figuring out what works and what you need to work on. If you're really worried about the condition of the motor, you can do compression and leakdown tests.

I don't see the leaks at the final drive, even with the finger pointing. But maybe I'm missing something. To my eye, all looks pretty normal back there. I see what looks like dried grease and grime. Pull the drive when you swap the tire out, clean it all up, lube, and go - probably.

I'd love to see pics of what's attached to "The Stick."

On the other side of this build you'll have a really fun ride.

I will take a pic but off the top of my mind there is nothing connected to the stick right now. It is wired to the ACC terminal for power but none of the wires coming off of it has any attachment. The tires were installed 2018 and have little to no miles on them. I think DOT date is 2018. I have to recheck it and if so then I’ll keep them on the bike. The P.O. just had it stored in his business warehouse for years. Last confirmed service date was 1981!!