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Remember, the spring just sets the initial tension. Then you tighten the bolts and it stays there.

Of course. But the springs still need to pull evenly and accurately. I could feel a difference between the left and right side belts, hence the reason for wanting to new springs. I know that belt tension can have an effect on timing, so i'd like that to be as close to perfect as I can get it.

Is it recommended to lubricate the backside of the tensioner plate (between the thin slider piece and the backing plate) with anything (very thin layer of beeswax or similar) to help them slide properly?

Read post # 4 in Octanes belt tutorial. viewtopic.php?p=26453#p26453

That's the guide I used (along with this: http://wingovations.com/fitting-timing-belts/4591392336) so I believe the issue is the spring being partially stretched (lower spring constant now). Once new springs arrive, I'll check tightness again.

Got the carb tops and slides all polished up and they move very smoothly now. Continuing on cleaning all the components. Found some felt washers I had purchased awhile back for the butterfly shafts, so that is a nice score.

Scored a MOSFET reg/rec (FH020AA) for cheap on ebay, which will go a long way to improving the charging system (I think the ignition switch is still an issue, might look at relaying the horn and headlight).

Got the radiator hoses cut. Inspected the water pump and it's as tight as it can be, so that's a relief!

Ordered a front cover gasket kit too, so I'll likely remove all those troublesome phillips and replace w/ allens.

Ordered the hydraulic clutch kit from Sunnbobb, just need to source a master cylinder for it (sometime).

Still need to get the wheels swapped so I can sell the lesters!

Wannabridin, you've mentioned Melber wheels a couple times now. I've never heard of them before. Can we get some pics?

Here ya go. Not on the bike, not certain about the color either, might paint them, but they'd need to be sanded down first.

wannabridin wrote:
Ordered a front cover gasket kit too, so I'll likely remove all those troublesome phillips and replace w/ allens.

They AREN'T Phillips. They are JIS, and you won't hate them if you just use the correct screwdriver. JIS bits can be purchased from Amazon as well as full screwdrivers. You will probably need #3 for the big cover screws. Others will need #2.

Sorry, cross head screws. I have a collection of JIS screwdrivers from over a decade ago since I only own metric bikes... I tend to replace with allens when it makes sense

Robin sells a set of Allen head stainless screws for the front cover at a good price. I used it on mine. Personally, I replace cross head (Phillips or JIS) with Allen or hex head on almost everything. Thanks for sharing the pictures of the wheels. I'd never seen those before. They look great.

be sure to use antiseize, and remember you can get a LOT of torque on an allen

Oh yes, anti-seize is a must and will be use. Torque will be followed properly.

I purchased engine and carb sets from stainless cycle, he offered me a deal I couldn't pass up.

Yes, the Melbers are certainly unique. I'm thinking if I paint them, I might use a bronze color, maybe even try to match the gold pinstriping from the factory. Otherwise, polished sure would be amazing, but I'd have to send it out to get done, as I don't have that much time! That would not be cheap either....

some updates.

-Noticed a small leak in a carb top button (when blowing out the tops w/ compressed air), so planning on using some sealant for now to get the bike on the road (I have some Buna-n to try and some Dow 734 as well, hopefully one works for awhile). Picked up some brass freeze plugs and HDPE sheet so I can try to fix them myself like Sunnbobb did. Pistol Pete isn't doing his services currently, so I'm not sure if/when that option will be back.

-Received the alternate tensioner springs today as well, so I'll be able to get those swapped in and set the tension properly. I MIGHT try to quantify the belt tension/deflection, which would help satisfy the quality manager in me.

-Going to get some duplicolor aluminum paint to touch up the motor as necessary.

-Custom dynamics had a killer deal on some 5" knight rider LED bars (side to side running lights and then a flashing brake light). I ordered 3 of them for $10 a pop (usually $30+ each). They're a smoked lens, but I plan on tucking them inside the stock light housing to really help get attention. I also have an Ohmics intelligent brake light to add on back there for more visibility. I'll eventually convert the rear turn signals to red lenses, but that's down the line.

-Off-idle needle washers show up tomorrow. I'll have a bag of 500, so if you want a set, just let me know and I'll mail you some. (they're the ones Randakk recommends)

-Ordered some new air jets per Randakk's recommendation (#100's) as well.

-Moved the bike to the lift table, so working on it should be FAR easier now!

No real pictures to show anything, just a lot of little things moving me forward...

There is supposed to be a small vent in the carb top button ....

Gord

Thanks for that info Rat. Do you mean the small hole in the top underneath the button? Or is air/vacuum supposed to flow around the button to/from atmosphere?

Otherwise, what's the best recommendation to check the condition of the carb top's functionality?