'82 Cafe Racer Build - GL1100 born naked and will be again

[Easter]

Great fun tearing into these old beasts. Im just havin trouble sleaping since i got mine
what am i gonna do next keeps me awake all night

Yea, I know the feeling! Five years of poor sleep.

[Track T 2411]

Looking good! I did my '81 last year in much the same way, although I didn't paint the engine. For the nicks, scratches, and small rusty spots on the frame, I used brush-on rust killer, followed by oil based brush-on Rustoleum primer and gloss black paint. You can find it in pint cans. It matches the frame paint pretty well.

[GW Hobo]

Looking good! I did my '81 last year in much the same way, although I didn't paint the engine. For the nicks, scratches, and small rusty spots on the frame, I used brush-on rust killer, followed by oil based brush-on Rustoleum primer and gloss black paint. You can find it in pint cans. It matches the frame paint pretty well.

That's a great tip, thanks. I was wondering how folks had handled touchup frame painting if they didn't break things down to the frame for a full paintjob.

[GW Hobo]

First, thanks to anyone who checks out my progress. I had a question regarding wiring/solenoids and wanted to put this out to anyone who passes by my rehab job before I asked my question as a new thread.

I put the carbs on, got it buttoned up, and it started. It ran for about 20 seconds, then died out. I kept trying to start it and it would run for shorter and shorter periods before dying out. Finally, I couldn't get it restarted at all. Meanwhile, when I kept trying to restart it, I'd push the starter button and it would start taking longer and longer for the starter motor to kick on. Initially I pushed the button and it was instantaneous. Then, after the bike kept dying, I'd push it the starter button and the starter motor would take a half second to fire, then a full second, then 2 seconds, then 3, then it just stopped. The only noise when I hit the starter button (in an effort to get the bike running again) was clicking back by the battery.

Prior posts suggested it was a bad solenoid or starter motor had died. The way to check was to put a flat head screwdriver or pocketknife bald across the solenoid posts and see if the starter motor started. I did so, as noted in the attached videos. Finally got it to run steady.

1st, please let me know what you think of the engine. It was idling around 1000-1100 rpms.

2nd, regarding the solenoid: I check the dogbone and it looked broken. So I replaced it with an inline fuse (30amp). Still wasn't able to start it normally. So I gave up for the night and went online to buy a solenoid.

It arrived and I installed it. In the meantime, I also removed the gas tank and the rear tire, a process which involved me removing the battery temporarily. I put the battery back, put in the new solenoid, and hooked up all the wires. However this time, I couldn't get the dashboard to light up, showing the bike was in neutral. I tried the flat-head screwdriver across the solenoid starter posts and the engine turned over, but didn't fire. After about 6-8 seconds of the starter motor running, I noticed a white smoke coming from between the air filter housing and the frame cross bar that sits just in front of it.

I pulled the 4-wire plastic clip out of the solenoid. I then touched a strand of 8 gauge wire from the outside battery post on the solenoid to the metal connections for the red wire that goes into the plastic clip. The neutral lights and oil lights came one. So it appears that the solenoid may be the issue. I left things there for now.

I've bounced around the sites and haven't quite found my issue addressed.

1st question - did I screw up my electrical wiring trying to start the bike with out the electrical system engaged? i'm assuming the bike was turning over but no electricity was going to the plugs. Yet something was obviously burning next to or below the front of the air filter housing.

2nd question - if its not the solenoid, what else could it be? I've already replaced the solenoid once (bought online for a GL1100 Standard) but maybe I was sent the wrong type?

Any help would be great. If I don't get much response, perhaps I'll start a new thread, as I imagine that there's no way to get the word out that my rehab project has an electrical problem except to start a new thread...?

Thanks,
Hobo

[CYBORG]

Sounds like a complicated problem, maybe more then one problem. I would make SURE the battery was good, and that the ground from the battery to the frame is clean and tight.

[GW Hobo]

I solved the problem. Embarrassing, but I solved it. Two issues.

1) I bought a new solenoid with a built-in 30 amp fuse. The plastic housing of the solenoid wiring cluster appeared to only fit into it one way (because the cluster had a bunch of extra plastic moulding on one side of the rectangle that was necessary to attach the plastic wiring cluster to the original, 1982 solenoid). But that was the wrong way. So I shaved off the extra plastic housing (dremel tool) to make it rectangle, and inserted it the other way. That solved the "puff of white smoke" from the diode problem from my last start up attempt. I got this tip that it was inserted wrong from a prior post over on Goldwingdocs.com.

2) I glanced at the new solenoid and it appeared to have a "B" next to one post and a "W" next to the other. Thinking electricity, I'm saying, "black and white? But the wires are red." Then I looked at the old solenoid, which had the full writing next to the posts: "Battery" and "Motor". Yep, read the new solenoid upside down - B and M. Reversed the red posts from the starter motor and from the battery. That solved my "no power to rest of bike" problem and explained why the starter motor worked when I jumped the posts. Bike started right up.

Just in time too - winter arrived in the Midwest this past week, whereas it was 70 10 days ago. So I got the tank out and the rear tire, and ran it for about 20 minutes with Stabl and marvel mystery oil. Got the radiator fan to kick on so I know my 1982 thermostat is still good. I couldn't tell if the water pump was working so its on my to do. Unfortunately, I stripped one of the water pump housing screw holes when I reattached the radiator supply tubes. Going to be looking for a new one of these because it has a slow drip now. Forgot I was dealing with aluminum. Saw one on ebay for $100...faaack.

Rear wheel cleaned up nicely as did final drive - see pics.

Winter work: clean up fuel pump and reinstall; research front end fork conversion for GL1100 from GSXR 1000 (looking 2004 ish), de-rust the fuel tank, and continue to clean up/derust the frame (just a few spots). I'm going to miss the warm evening nights in the garage after the kids were tucked in, cleaning carbs with a cold beer and the radio on. Winter will slow down the process, but I'll fire it up every few weeks just to hear it roar. I'd love to get it cleaned up. With the amount of dirt and grime on this bike, it must have sat outside some since last running in 2002.

I welcome any thoughts on the front-end conversion. I've seen several good builds here and other places online but if anyone has any recommendations on builds with really good detail on an early 2000s GSXR front end put onto an '82 GL1100, I'd be grateful.

Things are moving along. I'd never ridden a motorcycle before I passed my safety class this past May, but I'll confirm that working on the bike has been as much fun as I thought it would be. Looking forward to riding it in 2018.

[Easter]

I am pretty sure I can come up with a water pump housing if you still need it, say $15 plus what ever shipping costs. Can't be that much in a padded envelope. I remember my firsts build (the orange bike) and having a similar problem with the solenoid. You will be a better rider for knowing your bike thoroughly.

[GW Hobo]

I am pretty sure I can come up with a water pump housing if you still need it, say $15 plus what ever shipping costs. Can't be that much in a padded envelope. I remember my firsts build (the orange bike) and having a similar problem with the solenoid. You will be a better rider for knowing your bike thoroughly.

That'd be great - I'll PM you.

[GW Hobo]

I am pretty sure I can come up with a water pump housing if you still need it, say $15 plus what ever shipping costs. Can't be that much in a padded envelope. I remember my firsts build (the orange bike) and having a similar problem with the solenoid. You will be a better rider for knowing your bike thoroughly.

Easter, thanks for sending that to me. I re-used your box and I'll drop the money and some swag in the mail tomorrow. Good talking to you the other day.

[GW Hobo]

So far 2018 has not been kind. Too cold to do much of anything. I took my gas tank to several folks who said it was too far gone to save. My favorite local Honda dealer (Otto Brothers, Lyons IL) went under after what I heard was over 40 years. And my fork conversion is stuck in 1st gear. Outside of Sundance's posts to pass the time, it's not been what I'd call a productive period on the wing. 40 degrees in the garage would be a start. Hope others are fairing better.

[JamesPal]

If the gas tank doesn't have any holes in the bottom, it might be worth trying to save. My 1200 was pretty bad. When I asked my friends about it all they would say was: "I don't know" and the owner of the radiator shop said he wouldn't give an opinion. The radiator shop rodded it out for $100. Things are expensive where I live. I put a Caswell liner in it. I do that to all my builds. I cleaned the tank in my 1100 with vinegar and did the Caswell liner. It was better than the 1200. You might find a good tank for less than $100.

[GW Hobo]

If the gas tank doesn't have any holes in the bottom, it might be worth trying to save. My 1200 was pretty bad. When I asked my friends about it all they would say was: "I don't know" and the owner of the radiator shop said he wouldn't give an opinion. The radiator shop rodded it out for $100. Things are expensive where I live. I put a Caswell liner in it. I do that to all my builds. I cleaned the tank in my 1100 with vinegar and did the Caswell liner. It was better than the 1200. You might find a good tank for less than $100.

Thanks James - my tank looks fine from the outside. No weak spots or spotts where it's pitted that I can see. What do you mean by "rodded." I have a lead on a tank for $125. I was going to put a request for tanks for sale on this site too.

[raiddrten]

Yes, the weather sure took a turn here as well after a very mild November and December. I have a wood floor shop, but built a hasty wall floor to ceiling and about 8x10 floor area. There are two glass patio doors framed large enough to bring bikes or at least parts of them inside to work on. A small heater takes the edge off. I should show this stuff over on my project, i suppose.

But I just want to congratulate you on getting your bike to run. I have to do my water pump and timing belts before the radiator even goes on. Then the carb kit. It iS a really big deal to hear that engine run the first time [at least mine will fire the pistons] and a lot of people give up because it takes planning, work, and discipline

[JamesPal]

This may not be the correct term for cleaning gas tanks. Rodding is the process a radiator shop uses to clean radiators. It involves using a heated tank to clean the radiator. The hot tank also works to clean steel fuel tanks.

[GW Hobo]

This may not be the correct term for cleaning gas tanks. Rodding is the process a radiator shop uses to clean radiators. It involves using a heated tank to clean the radiator. The hot tank also works to clean steel fuel tanks.

I see, thanks James. Sounds likes its worth a call to a local radiator shop to at least get a sense for it.