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Very nice Ron. I like the idea of having flashing lights. That would draw a riders attention better.
I found this switch. It's made by Cole Hersee for boat hatches. It is normally closed when extended (like the switch in a refridgerator). It's $10. I'm going to try to pick one up tomorrow. The diodes are in my pocket.

All right! We're on our way!!

JD...I was poking around and located more diode schematic representations. I'm going to can the diode schematic in favor of just showing where the striped end should be in the circuit.

After all my searching I found this. I think it makes everything as clear as mud. But it may explain why we found schematic symbols that seem to contradict...

"An electrical engineer views current as abstract positive charges; physicists and technicians view current as physical negative charges (electrons) moving in the opposite direction of the engineer's positive charges. A diode permits the engineer's charges to flow in the direction of the arrow, while the actual electrons flow in the opposite direction, and are blocked in the direction of the arrow."

A few years ago I worked on a forensic project that involved a 150 foot cherry picker that fell over. It had just gone through an extensive refurb and all the diodes were replaced. The new ones were ALL put in backwards and so the safeties didn't work right.

If you find an on-line source for that switch it would be a great help if you posted it. I did a short on-line search last night and came up with nada. There were several switches with the Cole Hersee name on them but not the model 9006-BP5369707 you mentioned. I will extend my search as well. Thanks
and .... BTW when I took Physics in high school back in 1957 that debate about whether current flows from + to - or - to + was going on at that time. All the guys I knew thot it was silly; we knew first-hand from our old cars back then what it was from personal, up close, experience..

Would be nice if a kit comes out of all this.

Sorry about the number. The Cole Hersee number is 9006-PB. The rest of the number is the stock number at West Marine. I picked up a switch today. It has a 1" x 1 1/2" base and the top of the plunger is 3/4" above the mounting surface. The plunger has a rubber boot. The back side is not weather proof but can be siliconed over. The spring was really stiff. It might work but I swapped it out in favor of a ball point pen spring. The switch has 1/4" blades to connect to.

West Marine appears to have good store coverage or you can by it on-line.
West Marine Link

I started to play with the bracket today. I wanted it to mount in front of the left footpeg. My thought was that you just take of the acorn nut and put the bracket on. That didn't work out because the curve in the footpeg bracket is in the way. So version 2 is going to mount behind the footpeg. The switch ends up partially hidden by the footpeg and the wires can follow the starter lead up into the bike. Should be fairly clean. The bracket is a piece of 1/8 aluminum. The switch will mount 3 5/8" in front of the footpeg stud.

I have a second switch that I'm considering. It's a Radio Shack item and you get 5 for about $3.00. They're not weather proof but with some dielectric grease on the plunger shaft and silicone on the backside it should be as good as a 75 cent switch can get. The diodes are 2 for $2.50.

I don't know about a kit. All the stuff is readily available and the bracket is a simple bent strap with a couple of holes in it. I might just put a CAD drawing of the bracket in my photo album.
The 1100 and 1200 owners can figure it out once they see what the real NGW riders are doing.

What are the numbers on the Radio Shack items including the diodes, please. Tnx

Been looking at combining the two, an indicator/ kill switch, like our newer brothers. The side stand switch on the 'new' goldwings is a single pole double throw and mounts on the side stand pivot bolt. Looks like a tidy installation, appears to be common, (used on multiple bikes), and fairly inexpensive on eBay, but ran into a snag. Our side stand spring runs over the bolt, leaving no room for the switch to mount.

Ran across this http://www.goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewt ... p?f=4&t=63 but I'm hesitant on 'gluing' a switch in place. I also think the voltage regulator is overkill and unnecessary, so I replaced it with a resistor in my diagram.




Still got switch selection and mounting, and considering an indicator for the emergency bypass switch. I want the switch to be in a hidden, out of the way place, but want the operator to be reminded to check and repair when and if a fault occurs and the circuit has to be bypassed. I think I'm over thinking this. But if it keeps one bike shiny side up.......

I added a relay to my headlight circuit to keep the juice from running through the starter button (I'm running an H4 100/80 off-road bulb). Today's project (along with the sidestand switch bracket) is to add an emergency bypass switch to the relay circuit so I have a headlight in case the relay takes a poop.

Radio Shack #'s: Diode: 276-1143, Switch: 275-1548 (Normally Closed - they have the same switch in NO as well)

I'm going to go with the smaller radio shack switch on my bike. (I have rearset controls and without the footpeg to hide the Cole Hersee switch it looks boogery.) My bracket will be screwed into the top of the sidestand bracket with #8 allen head screws. It will be a very compact installation. I'm going to keep going on the regular bracket since it won't require any tapping of holes. I'll post photos of both versions.

"If it keeps one bike shiny side up..."
Just so. Especially since in this case it's always operator error.

I don't know if you'll recall, but I intended to use my shift light as the sidestand dummy light. I just have to send the signal to ground. That's why my second wire is grounded to the block (you can just make it out in the second photo).

After spending about 3 hours yesterday fooling with a big bracket for the Cole Hersee switch, I decided to do it the way I originally thought it up for my own bike. It's an itty bitty bracket held in place by two 8-32 screws. I didn't have to remove anything to get the cordless drill into position and the little tap wrench didn't interfere. Some guys shy away from tapping holes, but I think this baby is the way to go.

This photo is from about 5 feet away. This one is from 6" away. The thing that looks like a boot over the top of the switch is shrink wrap. There's silicone in the other end to fill the gap. The plunger shaft is halfast sealed with dielectric grease. Close enough to waterproof for me. The wire that goes up into the bike is wrapped around the starter lead. I think the high beam indicator lamp is 7w. That's about a .5 amp draw through the switch. The little Radio Shack switch is rated for 3amps. It will hold up wired to the head lamp indicator bulb.

I still need to pull my headlamp and search around for the blue wire for the diode.

Hi beam indicator light is 12v...

Sunny...7W
I'll try to remember to use the larger font from now on.

Geez you old guys are tough.

The sun was shining this morning so I pulled the 1000 out and fired it up. I couldn't see the High Beam indicator in the bright sunshine. I could barely make it out in the half-light in the barn. So I am giving up on using it for a sidestand indicator and decided to go with an added bulb. My shift light is red neon and it is really bright and easy to see in full sunlight. It's a "can't miss" as the sidestand light. So in the end I decided to design a little bracket that will mount at the choke cable bracket and hold a red neon light next to the choke knob. Power will come from a gauge light in the dash panel. Ground will be at the engine bolt that holds the starter lead clip (as in my previous photos).

Of course other folk can put it wherever they want. The bracket works out really easy for mounting at the choke cable bracket and switched power is close at hand. The neon lamp is another Radio Shack component.

I'll post the write-up later.

I'm busy right now ordering a friggin water pump and gasket set.

Geez you old guys are tough.

hahahahha

Well I got the instructions and drawings for the brackets done. I don't know how to post a PDF file in a thread so the whole mess is in my album. There is a link in my signature below.