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looks like you are on top of it. we look forward to seeing it in person. in the mean time get some riding in. you have earned it

Cool I did not know you were going to bring your bike.

puffy75 wrote:Cool I did not know you were going to bring your bike.

Still looking at that, Ross. Its very expensive ( I reckon it will cost around £1400/$2300 both ways) and awkward as I have to take it to Manchester for shipping (about 250 miles) and of course pick it back up from there.

Plus I think it's about 6 weeks shipping time which really eats into the time I have left to get some riding practice in.

Maybe we should find you a bike over here and you could buy it and ship it back for about the same price.

Then you'd have a spare at home.

I'm sure someone has a loaner for you for the rally, don't they?

Bikes are already organised, Steve. I'm down to borrow one from Doug; any problems with that one, WF has offered as well.

Pete Clark(of the Heckler fame) has also very kindly chimed in with an offer so there is no shortage of bikes I can ride.

But it would really make it for me if I can possibly do this on my own machine.

I don't normally take holidays as such, just a few days here and there in this country as I don't like flying.

So this trip is a massive adventure for me, most probably a one-off.

I just hope, if I do bring it, that it's not a disappointment to everyone. Things always look better in pictures.

If you could make it to the west coast I'd loan you one as well.

Before shipping your bike, watch "The Worlds Fastest Indian"... just because you know whats in the box, it's just "Cargo" to the shippers.

Hoosier Daddy wrote:Before shipping your bike, watch "The Worlds Fastest Indian"... just because you know whats in the box, it's just "Cargo" to the shippers.

That's why it has to go to Manchester. These guys ship vehicles all over the world; the bike goes into a properly designed wooden crate such as the manufacturers use.

Well all of this sounds very cool now so I am going to have to look into going for the whole ride!

puffy75 wrote:Well all of this sounds very cool now so I am going to have to look into going for the whole ride!

Yeeeeeehaaaaaaaaaaaa! Another one joins in! Fantastic!

Wow! Fantastic! What a brilliant idea!

So did you in fact take the bike over, John?

Or borrow rides as offered?

We are thinking of doing something a bit similar, not sure when, but I've always fancied riding New York to San Francisco, and a GL sounds like a good bike to do it on. This would be with the French Gal as passenger.....

The problem would probably be finding a good reliable bike there, as the hire companies wouldn't carry anything that old, it'd probably mean what, buying one and then selling it at the end of however long?

Maybe we should work out some sort of reciprocal deal, where people in the US who want to try a bit of riding in Europe borrow a bike here, and vice versa?

Could work like the house swaps that happen in Holiday Swaps....which we intend to do once this place is a bit more finished than it is at the moment.

Maybe we should work out some sort of reciprocal deal, where people in the US who want to try a bit of riding in Europe borrow a bike here, and vice versa?

That should work.

Gord

I replaced the original stock clutch plates with a Barnett clutch and spring setup. As directed, I inserted a plain plate first, then followed with alternating friction-plain plate. when all tightened down, the clutch basket came out flush as required. So everything looks hunky-dory! Two thumbs up to Fogey for this thread.

While I was out yesterday my clutch started acting up. It was still driveable but I left some of my back tire's rubber in the middle of an intersection when it hooked up suddenly. Since I had a damper plate fail in this engine about 10 years ago, that was my first thought. I remembered reading this in Shop Talk so I looked it up this morning before heading to the shop.

It turns out that my damper plate is still in good condition but the "B" friction disc has chunks missing from the friction material on the side that was against the clutch centre and the friction surface of the clutch centre was scored. There are wear marks in the grooves in the centre too so I decided to use the almost new looking one from the parts engine. Fortunately, I had a good "B" plate on hand and one "A" plate that is a bit thicker than the ones I took out so I have re-assembled it with two plain plates from the parts engine in place of the damper, located as Fogey recommends (I figured it was a good idea since it is already apart) and the thicker "A" in place of the thinnest of the old "A"s. Assembled this way the stack is just about the same thickness as it was before, and that doesn't even take the wear on the centre into account.

While putting it back together I came up with a couple of tips and I figured it was as good a place as any to post them:

1) I was about to crawl back under the bike and start putting the plates in one at a time when it occurred to me that there was an easier way to do it. I assembled the centre, plates & pressure plate on the bench, then put 2 of the springs on with their bolts but with a couple of 3/16" fender washers under each bolt in place of the lifter plate and tightened them just more than finger tight. After lining up the friction plate tabs with a straight edge, I was able to put the whole assembly in as one piece with only a little fiddling required to get the splines on the shaft to line up with the ones in the hole in the clutch centre.

While looking in the Haynes book for the torque specs, I noticed that they recommend putting a couple of springs & bolts in with washers to engage the clutch to provide resistance while loosening & torquing the lock nut. Good idea.

2) I used the last tab on the tab washer that came close to lining up with one of the nut's slots. This is one of those indispensable parts that you don't think of until you need one right now so as soon as I was done I ordered a new 90431-292-000 tab lock washer. When it arrives I will put it in a little plastic bag, label it and hang it on the shop wall (I have an area for things like that). It may hang there for 10 years, but the next time the clutch is apart I will have one on hand.

Sidecar Bob wrote:
1) I was about to crawl back under the bike and start putting the plates in one at a time when it occurred to me that there was an easier way to do it. I assembled the centre, plates & pressure plate on the bench, then put 2 of the springs on with their bolts but with a couple of 3/16" fender washers under each bolt in place of the lifter plate and tightened them just more than finger tight. After lining up the friction plate tabs with a straight edge, I was able to put the whole assembly in as one piece with only a little fiddling required to get the splines on the shaft to line up with the ones in the hole in the clutch centre.

While looking in the Haynes book for the torque specs, I noticed that they recommend putting a couple of springs & bolts in with washers to engage the clutch to provide resistance while loosening & torquing the lock nut. Good idea.

Beat you to it, Bob! That's in Shop Talk too.
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20350


2) I used the last tab on the tab washer that came close to lining up with one of the nut's slots. This is one of those indispensable parts that you don't think of until you need one right now so as soon as I was done I ordered a new 90431-292-000 tab lock washer. When it arrives I will put it in a little plastic bag, label it and hang it on the shop wall (I have an area for things like that). It may hang there for 10 years, but the next time the clutch is apart I will have one on hand.[/quote]

Tab washers are getting in short supply, particularly for the 1200, so Bob's idea of forward planning is good!