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Thanks - Great post. I'm starting a paint job this weekend

spent 30 minutes in the "fraidy" hole in the middle of last night (tornado warning headed right to us), hopefully tomorrow will get back to it... opur youngest gets married on the 17th... so other projects on the list as well

Thanks for the post. Followed the do's and dont's and the paint job came out looking great.

am planning to get back to this next week, with the wedding and all, somethings got put on hold

Thanks, Rodger,

I'm going to be doing some painting soon and this will come in handy. Can't wait to see what else you come up with.

finally got back to working on the job.... taking my time I was able to lay a nice coat of the epoxy primer. next weekend... a quick scuff with 1000 grit paper, then a light coat of a sandable primer, almost all of that will come off with the 1000 grit paper, but it will fill all the tiny spots for a real smooth basecoat --- you want this to be a smooth as a babys bottom!

8) hot rod magazine shows some of the rat rods done in suede , primer with a clear coat over it, did it to the 78 I am working on, not sure what color i want to paint it yet, but it looks good until I decide.................

I would use 320 or 400 grit sandpaper so that the top coats can get a better "bite". For the primer coats, I use the gold paper dry. Be sure to wear a dust mask.

If you like to keep it really smooth between every layer, get an "adhesion promoter" where you buy your paint.

Just a couple of suggestions. Every painter has his/her favorite methods.

Thanks for the photos and keep us posted.

Good luck. 8)

as I mentioned above.... it was now hit with a sandable primer.... the key word is sandable... it isn't nearly as durable as epoxy, but fills in all the spots for a smooth finish.... most was sanded off as you can see

I am using a "three part" system for this job... much like honda used originally... the first is a "ground" or base coat which is metallic... I am actually using two different color ground coats to get the look I want... the second coat will be a transparent color coat... and then finally a urethane top coat

silver and "laser blue" the paint is from a company called metalflake both of these pieces will have both

edit 8/3/17 this was done with lacquer which is no longer easily available. Lacquer melts into the coat below. Urethane candies sit on top, so harder to blend

now to tape off... I have discovered that taping the inside of a curve is infinitly more simple than taping the outside... hence the tank had silver as the first coat, and the fender had blue. Make sure you have PRESSED THE LEADING EDGE well so you have a good edge... also make sure all the other layers of tape have no openings! if you get any paint into the previous area you will be sanding and redoing!

each of the base coats are done with four light coats, alternating back and forth, with up and down,,,, this gives a nice even finish edit 8/3/17 Eastwood has a great flexible plastic tape to do curves and a real sharp edge

okay... I can be anal.... but I could see, just slightly,,, at the right angle... where the repair was done on this radiator fin.... here it is partially sanded (I know-lousy picture) but if you can see the blue between the two primer areas.... that has to go or it will show!

I am very pleased with how it is coming along! usually at this point I think, "maybe just silver and blue!" I will take 1000 grit paper lightly to this. the "edge" between the two coats can be felt, so I want to smooth it some so it will dissapear as I go along. next will be the "second part....
but alas the weekend is coming to an end... so "to be continued"

Looking great Rodger, Keep up the post as I need to be doing this project in the future. You are going to have something to be proud of.

Looking very nice!!