Maybe I'll call it 'Threenix' for a while ;)

[Fred Camper]

How about an update on what needs replacement. Suspect body panels, wiring and blinkers as a minimum.

[gltriker]

Nice find Cliff. I can see many uses for that in your shop

True that, Doug!! I used it to roll the rear axle/swingarm assembly into that tight quarters parking space and positioned the swingarm upwards to rest against the garage wall allowing both tires to touch the cinder block lower course. That allowed me to place chocks under both tires without it rolling backwards. Perfect

How about an update on what needs replacement. Suspect body panels, wiring and blinkers as a minimum.

The front forks and everything that attaches to them were not affected by the flames, including both gauges and indicator lights panel.

The Pacifico fairing, the shelter frame and both of its side panels were already removed and the left (battery) and right side covers were previously removed, as well. All the pretty painted 'tins' were safely stowed away in the back of my pu truck a few years ago. The LTD carburetors are presently stowed under that hard tonneau cover, too.

The main wiring harness was cooked.
But the fire didn't get as far forward as the multiples of wire connectors which gather on the left of the steering neck.
Both throttle cables, choke cable, clutch cable and tachometer cable were cooked, too.
The rear axle/swingarm and everything attached it, including the air shocks and tires/wheels were not injured ..
The exterior of the fuel tank will have to be repainted.
The interior POR-15 sealer was discolored near the lower right front corner of the fuel tank, adjacent to the fuel pump. The (used to be) perfectly good fuel pump was baked a golden bronze.
The fuel tank level sender top was melted and the rear lights wires sub-harness was cooked.

The rear lights group and the chrome luggage rack they mount onto were not injured.
The running boards had been removed.

AND those precious, but problematic carburetors, which were contributory to the fire, had been removed just a few days before the

The front of the engine was undamaged.
Its top was mostly soot, but the ignition coils and complementing wires were destroyed.

The radiator and fan motor and the shield just behind the fan motor were not injured. The horn and its wires sub harness were not affected.

The DynaS wires lead was thoroughly cooked where it routed under the fuel tank. (I have another DynaS and several Dyna ignition coils, but am thinking about the eBay solution that Cedric documented several years ago) .
The Shindengen R/R was *overheated * and the battery and battery frame were toasted.

I was surprised the fuel tank petcock wasn't seriously damaged (its still functional and has already been Randakk parts resealed ) by the burning gasoline that had almost burned through the attached Tygon fuel hose and transparent plastic fuel filter.
That would have been Huge problem!!!

The left handle bar grip and switches housing were destroyed.
The clutch switch was cooked but the Magura clutch lever was not injured. .

Last summer I purchased a new, aftermarket 1975- 1977 main wiring harness which included the 4 diodes, from a seller in Canada.
I also placed a large order for parts and miscellaneous hardware, including the flexible rubber driveshaft boot, from CMS.
I procured most, if not all, control cables from Motion Pro.

Frame tubes are heavily carbon soot fouled.
When I get the engine up onto a work bench, I'll give another report on its condition, too

You must have noted the seat was also thoroughly baked and my beloved OTC 500 multi-meter was destroyed, as well. I do have a nice aftermarket seat, but the OTC 500 was new circa 1994. NLA now

[gltriker]

Finally, the engine is removed

20250530_180629 - Lifter waiting to take custody of patient.png

20250530_184300 - Engine lifted off motorcycle jack front view.png

20250530_185006 - Engine ljust ifted off hydraulic motorcycle jack.png

20250530_190854 - Engine suspended over table.png

20250530_191729 - Ready to shut off lights and closew doors.png

[Track T 2411]

Nice work! Looks like the lift works well...

[gltriker]

Nice work! Looks like the lift works well...

It did ! Makes me chuckle every time I look at it though. 'Til yesterday, and elsewhere, I've always been the 'patient' swinging at the end of a health facility patient lifter's boom

I finally got back in earnest to the rebuild of the fire damaged motorcycle. snip...

Even though I may never ride again, it's difficult to even consider entirely quitting on this bike. My bike

Ciao for now !

Hang in there! One never knows what the future may hold in store for you. If I were closer, I'd gladly offer a hand... but I am sending positive 'vibes' your way!

I do remember these things...Thank you

[Track T 2411]

You've probably mentioned it previously, but I can't recall... what's your plan with the engine removal?

[gltriker]

The October 6, 2023 fire left its calling card. The engine needs a real good external cleaning and repaint. The cylinders all survived
The frame is coated with soft carbon and smut, too.

https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 71#p821171
and
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 72#p821172

[Rat]

Stay strong my friend … you’ve overcome worse

Gord

[gltriker]

Thanks Gord
I've been thinking how this 1975 GL1000 brike < new one, eh brought me to the Paris Fairgrounds 10 years ago when the Honda GL1000 was the featured marque for the 2015 CVMG Rally.
doesn't seem real though it's been 7 years since we, and the Paris Rally NGW group pals last shook hands

Here's some closer photos of the carbon smut deposits burning gasoline left behind on the engine. The front of the engine was relatively unscathed. The timing belts covers, and oil filter housing were clean.

20250602_142614 - front of engine.png

then we start looking around the other three side views and bottom

20250602_142844 - right side profile with soft carbon accumulation from gasoline fire.png

20250602_142452 - left side profile of '75 GL1000 engine.png

I made a strong solution of Dawn dishwashing detergent and water into a windex spray bottle and started working yesterday. Already had a small collection of various configuration brushes that I employed to do battle with the carbon deposits. This is my first time experience with this black mess.
Lotsa work

[Fred Camper]

Pace yourself as this is one long haul.

[gltriker]

Yeah it's almost overwhelming to try to figure out how to clean up this mess without getting filthy; even moreso to keep the soles of my boots and the tires on my mobility scooter clean to prevent my accidental!y tracking the black smut into our house.

I had planned to drive my wife's car to visit Len Cross' place yesterday afternoon but didn't feel quite right and grudgingly decided to cancel the trip. Most likely from investing too much energy on this project, Monday.
I get distracted by other little things in the garage, too. I discovered the flexible rubber hoses on both of my compression testers gauge assemblies were deteriorating. The Fox Valley one needs a new pressure gauge too. It's not the important one, though. At least 60 years old now and served me well before this GL1000 came into the picture.

The Snap-On gauge hose assembly is metric internal and external diameter dimensions, the hose fitting barbs on both ends are 5mm and would cost megabucks to replace the entire hose assembly from a dealer. I can't recall any walk-in business in this area that might even entertain repairing this 10mm OD hose. Odd Stuff like this wears heavily on my old brain.
Anyways... it keeps me going forward

[Fred Camper]

Time to update those hoses to something now available for a long time. Alternatives to rubber are now available.

[gltriker]

The Fox Valley test kit can remain retired in its small metal box.

I had considered moving just the Snap-On pressure gauge, itself, directly into a new air hose quick coupler (M style, female 1/4" NPT) and use the schrader type check valve in the Snap-On threaded 12mm testing hose end to release the high air pressure in the hose. Why?

20250604_125552 - 12mm Motion Pro hose and M style quick coupler.png

Although doing so would increase the time between repeating cylinder testing attempts, I know it will greatly benefit the air pressure gauge internal accuracy to not abruptly release the compression test pressure accumulated in the hose and pressure gauge by accidentally releasing the quick coupler, instead. Okay, let's do it!

Then, I started to make the changeover and found the Snap-On gauge male nipple threads were not tapered 1/4" NPT.
They resemble a straight tubing type thread (might be 1/4 BSPP?) instead and appear to butt end -o-end against a machined seat in the compression releasing hose fitting. (to remove the Snap-On pressure gauge required a 19mm wrench and a 14mm wrench) I had previously sliced the hose and measured the internal diameter with my digital calipers.
0.202". hmmm what's the metric equivalent. 5mm. The outside diameter was 0.389". another hmmmm. 10mm. This is getting weird...
I want to have a working compression test gauge assembly, again.

I recalled Cedric had considered purchasing a new 0-300 psi Snap-On pressure 1/4" male NPT gauge he found on ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/226706588609?_
In turn, I looked at the specs list and see it has an Ashcroft p/n. That's a good pressure gauge manufacturing company. I reckon that will be as good an alternative as any

update! The ebay seller has accepted my Best Offer of $30 for the same gauge. Free shipping included. Perfect

I have discovered from the Ashcroft website this gauge has a 1/8" NPT bottom mount. Not a big deal, though. Just have to locate a male 1/4" NPT to female 1/8" NPT adaptor bushing. A Hardware store plumbing department item.

[leonardhcross]

Yeah it's almost overwhelming to try to figure out how to clean up this mess without getting filthy; even moreso to keep the soles of my boots and the tires on my mobility scooter clean to prevent my accidental!y tracking the black smut into our house.

I had planned to drive my wife's car to visit Len Cross' place yesterday afternoon but didn't feel quite right and grudgingly decided to cancel the trip. Most likely from investing too much energy on this project, Monday.
I get distracted by other little things in the garage, too. I discovered the flexible rubber hoses on both of my compression testers gauge assemblies were deteriorating. The Fox Valley one needs a new pressure gauge too. It's not the important one, though. At least 60 years old now and served me well before this GL1000 came into the picture.

The Snap-On gauge hose assembly is metric internal and external diameter dimensions, the hose fitting barbs on both ends are 5mm and would cost megabucks to replace the entire hose assembly from a dealer. I can't recall any walk-in business in this area that might even entertain repairing this 10mm OD hose. Odd Stuff like this wears heavily on my old brain.
Anyways... it keeps me going forward

Wow! No wonder you were too pooped to "run away" yesterday. I've see how you get around with that walker. It is very impressive to see how you managed to extract that engine. The next time you start something that big, call me.