Maybe I'll call it 'Threenix' for a while ;)

[gltriker]

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I located my cylinder leakdown rate tester and proper 12mm adaptor hose to properly diagnose if and where a probable combustion chamber fault/s may exist that might be attributed to extinguishing the October 6th fire with a garden hose .

Here we go...

My cylinder compression tester and its dedicated 12mm adaptor hose were still screwed into the # 4 cylinder spark plug hole.
I was surprised the not released compression gauge reading was displayed as slightly less (~150 psi) compared to the last test session on July 7th.
I released the still present from July7 compression test pressure to reset the gauge to 0psi .

To be continued (with many pictures) in the next post...stay tuned

[gltriker]

Utilizing my new, fully charged AGM battery I performed another compression test on cylinder # 4. Note the time of day.
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20240713_104504.jpg

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The test result is identical to the July7 compression tester gauge reading.
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I then removed the 12mm compression test hose from the #4 spark plug hole, then installed my
dedicated 12mm leakdown rate testing adaptor hose into the # 4 cylinder spark plug hole.
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Before pressurizing the cylinder to be tested at TDC compression stroke, the tester gauge needs to be calibrated with its attached pressure regulator. Note: 0% =100psi
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20240713_110330.jpg

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The leakdown rate test result was not much different when compared to its August 2022 leakdown rate session photo of cylinder #4

https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic ... 85#p810585
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20240713_111304.jpg

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The tester gauge indicated rate of loss is so small, I made zero effort to find it.

Now... the August, 2022 leakdown test link I added to this discussion is very important historical data reference for the remainder of this post- October 6th fire event, engine cylinders' health diagnostic study.

More to come in the next post

[gltriker]

Although the present day leakdown rate test of cylinder # 4 indicates a 5-ish % increase compared to the results from 2 years ago, it just made good sense to perform a present day leakdown rate test procedure on cylinders 1, 2 and 3, as well.
Of course, before connecting the leakdown rate tester tool's quick disconnect coupler onto the 12mm test adaptor hose, the leakdown tester gauge will be double checked for 0% calibration.

Here's each of the remaining 3 cylinders' test results.
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20240713_115205.jpg

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20240713_115109.jpg

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20240713_112632.jpg

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20240713_123641.jpg

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AND cylinder #4
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20240713_111304.jpg

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hmmm

ALL 4 CYLINDERS ARE WITHIN SEVERAL %s of one another.

Without prolonging this diagnostic process, I pondered , what is the most important step taken before performing a cylinders' cranking compression testing session?

Check all 8 valves lash clearance, First!!
.
Number 4 cylinder valves just have to be presently set at 0.006".

Prove it, old man !!

[gltriker]

I first removed the left side rocker arm cover, then rotated the crankshaft to locate T2 top dead center, compression stroke, on the #4 cylinder.

I soon discovered the #4 intake valve lash clearance was less than 0.006", after all my ** fretting and wringing of hands ** about the water intrusion event into all 4 cylinders.

My wife had organized my tools shortly after the fire, so it took a loooong time to locate a 0.006" feeler gauge .

Regretably, I didn't consider bringing a 0.004" feeler gauge to the investigation would have been prudent, too

[gltriker]

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20240713_104504 (1).jpg

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5 hours later... that was not continuous, non-stop diagnostic labor; start to finish...
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20240713_154623.jpg

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At this time I can't say with confidence, that before I loosened the adjuster screw lock nut, the # 4 cylinder intake valve lash was, in fact set at 0.004". The red paint witness mark suggests it was...

I suggested 12 years ago, this is an ongoing science project.

Details! Details! Details!

Done

[Fred Camper]

Nice boost in pressure for a small change in clearance.

[gltriker]

Nice boost in pressure for a small change in clearance.

Yes it is, Jeff.

[gltriker]

What has happened here ???

On April 25, 2023 I discovered this thread had tallied 50,000 views ... 11 years after I had first started the 'project'

Today, March 8, 2025, almost 13 years after its 2012 conception, I discovered this 'project' views count has tallied 75,000 views

Screenshot 2025-03-08 053105.png

to be continued

[Fred Camper]

Wow, that is a lot of views. Cool.

[gltriker]

Here's my source for the air Pressure Testing tool AND those very handy small diameter bristle brushes, all in one neat little package.

To my great surprise these items arrived all neatly nestled in a tin container with a transparent window on the top cover!!

Screenshot_20250325_185709_Chrome.jpg

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Bristle brushes working

viewtopic.php?p=826395#p826395

[gltriker]

Here's a less expensive kit which arrived in a small cardboard box.

Note how I ran a red line through the seller's description words, "Vacuum Tester"
.NO, It's Not!!
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Screenshot_20250329_105829_Chrome.jpg

[gltriker]

Yeah, there are going to be nay sayers to this strategy I implemented to preserve existing 4mm original float bowl retaining screw threads in the GL1000 carburetor bodies...it came about when my first set of 1976 carburetors were being disassembled multiple times to revisit their internal sealing components. AND the easily congested #35 slow fuel (idle) jets.
Eventually, those very soft 4mm zinc alloy threads in the carburetor bodies were stripping and I couldn't justify (afford) the Time-Sert 4mm thread repair kit. So, as many fellows have done, I tapped the stripped thread holes ( circa 2014?) to accept #8-32 machine screws and thoughtfully considered utilizing a low strength "blue" Loctite, too, which I had collected amongst several other grades of Loctite formula numbers.

Wait, What, WHY?!

I had remembered back in the 1980s, some now unnamed vendor had packaged a hardware store hangtag display to provide a stripped-out grease zerk threads repair kit that utilized a blue liquid very similar to Loctite., and a parting compound. It was not a practical solution... failed soon after the first time a grease gun zerk coupler was attached and removed. (The zerks affected were in the aluminum alloy roller bearing caps on either end of a TORO 21"-reel type greens mower cutting unit, front HOC roller assembly.)

Moving on...

Those Newly oversized carburetor body screw thread diameters required slightly oversizing the 4 holes in each individual float bowl flange, as well. It made sense to me that perhaps a Loctite product would fill the thread space between the newly manufactured 8-32 screw threads and a new 8-32 machine screw threads.
I did, though, leave the still intact 4mm factory threads in the carb bodies alone and installed their original screws with the "blue" Loctite, too.
As I had advised Leonard with this , when reinstalling the float bowl and Loctite treated screws press the bowl firmly against the float bowl gasket, then run in the 4 bowl screws to barely contact the float bowl gasket and let the "blue" Loctite cure for a day or two, then tighten those 4 bowl retaining screws judiciously into greater compression to fully capture the float bowl gasket, especially over the aluminum "puck" and idle/pilot fuel channels.

viewtopic.php?p=826017#p826017

Anyways, when I removed all 16 fuel bowl retaining screws sometime later, the "blue" Loctite had indeed filled the screw threads and after the increased screw removal breakaway torque figure had been overcome, the increased bowl retaining screws prevailing torque presented all the way until the screw was totally removed.

No, ye nay sayers, the hard plastic nature of the cured Loctite did not harm the newly manufactured 8-32
screw threads in the zinc alloy carburetor body, and more importantly, the original factory manufactured 4mm screw threads' structural integrity had been improved and permanent. Excellent. Perfect

My second set of 1976 carburetors (LTD spec,#) arrived with all 16 float bowl retaining 4mm screw hole threads in very good condition in late summer, 2017.
When I refurbished them with a Randakk kit, I utilized the "blue" Loctite on all 16, 4mm screw threads before inserting them into their respective carburetor holes.
Yes, upon eventually removing the '76 LTD carburetor float bowls, again, the original 4mm screw threads in the soft zinc alloy holes were pleasingly intact, and structural integrity preserved < (enhanced?)

I am pretty sure the "blue" Loctite product that I'd used in 2014 was Loctite 242.
When it came time to reassemble the LTD carburetors in late summer 2017, I realized my neighbor had borrowed and not returned the mostly empty bottle. Loctite products have various shelf-life dates...

I discovered on-line, Loctite had produced a new formulation "blue" Loctite, numbered as 243.
That pictured bottle is one I had ordered from a seller on Amazon.
(If moderately interested in the 242 vs 243 formula specs, 242 requires less breakaway torque to remove the screw. Its categorized as Low strength.
Loctite 243 is categorized as Medium strength. Doesn't require heat to remove the 4mm screws in my LTD carburetors, though.


TIP Always thoroughly shake the contents of a Loctite product bottle/tube before applying to the fastener threads. Unless directed otherwise, apply the "blue" Loctite to the screw shaft threads before installing. Too much dropped into a blind hole might cause a problematic hydraulic situation.

20250414_165148 Loctite 243 -30%.png

[Fred Camper]

Nice to have the "rest of the story"...

[gltriker]

Nice to have the "rest of the story"...

Cliff has another method worth trying first. It still allows you to use time-certs later.

Exactly

[gltriker]

.
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... 17#p826017

See the evenly compressed float bowl gasket indentations in the first photograph