After a long battle with the 79 Wing I was finally successful last season. Ran beautifully.
Proper storage with non-ethanol gas, topped up and float bowls drained, looking forward
to riding my baby again.
I guess 5 months storage is just too long. Hard to start and seems running on 2
cylinders. Gas leaking from #1 float bowl. Runs on all 4 in higher revs but....
as soon as I turn the petcock on full, the engine dies. Full carb rebuild last year with
proper float height adjusted. Gas leaking outta exhaust.
Only winter mod was converting to MOSFET rectifier/regulator.
I store my 82 for as long us you do and the only issue I've ever had was cranking it until the float bowls fill up.
I'm no goldwing carb expert but between the raw gas coming out of the exhaust and it dying when you turn the fuel on all the way it sounds like you have a stuck float or more..it runs when you rev it up because it's able to deal with the extra gas.
I'd gently tap the float bowls a few times and see if that fixes it.
1982 1100 standard. (sold)
1986 Yamaha FJ1200
2000 Yamaha Roadstar
1976 GoldWing. running but not on the road
1978 Goldwing. future cafe project.
2019 Can-Am ryker (boss's new ride)
2002 Shadow American Classic(sold)
1983 Shadow 500. (sold)
I start mine every weeekend, all winter. Coming up to temp, and chaanging up from idle to about 3000 several times. Do it every year, with no running problems in the sprng. Easier then going thru the carbs every spring
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
Carbs off. #2 full of gas at head. Valves must be closed. #4 not far behind.
Good to be wrenching again although unfortunate circumstance.
Will be poking around the carbs now. They've probably been off
the Wing as often as on...........
Get a set of locking hemostats - really help with the throttle cables. And, hook them up before putting the rack fully in place.
"Love 'em all.... let God sort 'em out!"
Ex 2006 GL1800 - the Black Pearl SOLD! to make room for:
2021 Can-Am Spyder RT Limited Dark Chalk Metallic
1975 Red GL1000 project - ex Pistol Pete project
1972 Triumph T150V Trident rescue - finished and FOR SALE!
1976 Yamaha RD400c
1978 GL1000 with '75 engine - the Hunley
Ex 1978 GL1000
Ex 1979 GL1000
Ex '79 CB750F rat bike
Ex '86 SEi
Ex '77 GL1000
Ex '76 RD400
Ex '72 Penton 125 set up for flat track
Ex '73 RD250
Ex '68 TR6C - chopped
I have a set of hemostats my nurse sister gave me 50+ years ago.
Great for many things.
Dunno, Iv'e tried many tricks to hook the cables back up. Always
seems that cursing works best.....
Busy trying to make sure the float valves seat correctly. They did last year.
Little bit of fine debris was in the bottom of the float bowls.
Had to be really fine to get past two filters.
It's March and you are already taking it out of storage? Maybe it just didn't like to be awakened so early
The worst spring startup issue I remember was the year I took mine out of storage in the end of February (long story) and the starter motor had decided its time was up. I chased battery problems for a week before I realized that wasn't why it wouldn't crank.
Wow again. Thanks for that gltriker. So much cool knowledge !
Just saw your post now. Had the carbs off and apart and back on after
confirming float levels, clean jets etc.
Having a stiff drink. Ran crappy but ran. Perhaps gas got into the oil raising the level
and contaminating plugs & leaking outta the exhaust. Drained & cleaned plugs. Will
try again when I have the energy.
Thank you for the tutorial.
(BTW I do have a Sphygmomanometer)
Last edited by Dirty Dave on Fri Mar 10, 2023 6:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I had wanted to test my regulator upgrade and assumed (yeah I know) the Wing
was gonna run fine, just as it did last year. Electricals 100% but yunno the rest.
This Wing is a full time job. Keeps me busy when I'm not riding something
reliable. (ouch)
There is no direct connection between the crankcase (where the oil is) and the cylinders (where the plugs are) except past the rings. Gas coming out of the exhaust usually means gas in one or more cylinder that is expelled when the exhaust valve opens.
Gas in a cylinder usually means that something is wrong with either 1) a carb float (sticking or adjusted high), 2) a float valve not closing fully (usually debris keeping it from shutting) or 3) on 4 cylinder 'Wings a bad carb to plenum seal allowing the fuel to escape onto the floor of the plenum and flow from there through the carb throat and out the other side and into the cylinder via the intake valve.
When gas gets into the oil it is usually from one of those 3 scenarios letting fuel into a cylinder and some of it percolating past the end gaps of the piston rings.
BTW, I prefer to drain all fuel out of both the carbs and the tank and not put more in until it is time to use the beast again. water can get into your tank when filling up in the rain of from condensation due to damp air entering the tank when you ride on a humid day among other opportunities and when it does it sits on the bottom of the tank because it is heavier than gasoline. If you drain the tank for storage that water will evaporate but if you never empty the tank the water on the bottom will eventually find another way out of the tank.
I've seen too many tanks that rotted out at the bottom because they were left for years without draining, not to mention that in a few years the gasoline itself turns to gel and eventually hardens into "varnish" and when you store a bike for winter you never know if something will happen to prevent you from putting it back on the road in the spring (my 'Wing's PO had an accident at work that broke both his ankles and I am grateful that he emptied the tank before it sat for the next 10 years).
Testing something you've worked on is one thing but running the engine every so often during winter does more harm than good. It mostly wastes fuel and pollutes the air but also unless you run it under load it won't really be thoroughly warmed so whatever moisture & unburned fuel got past the rings before they got warm won't be expelled either.
(The way I treat my winter bike these days is only marginally better because most of my trips don't get it fully warmed up so I try to make sure I get it outside of town to let it run at speed every couple of weeks.)
Dirty Dave wrote: ↑Fri Mar 10, 2023 6:00 pm
Wow again. Thanks for that gltriker. So much cool knowledge !
Just saw your post now. Had the carbs off and apart and back on after
confirming float levels, clean jets etc.
Having a stiff drink. Ran crappy but ran. Perhaps gas got into the oil raising the level
and contaminating plugs & leaking outta the exhaust. Drained & cleaned plugs. Will
try again when I have the energy.
Thank you for the tutorial.
(BTW I do have a Sphygmomanometer) hemostats? Check! sphygmomanometer? Check!
you are welcome.
Download the video file I placed under the 2 photos and take a look at what the pressure tester accomplishes.
There are several rubber sealing components that can fail between the inlet hose barb fitting and cause a person to mistakenly blame a float valve needle and seat as the culprit.
