76 GL1000 Restoration

[gltriker]

[Old Fogey]

rings from a 2000 Chevy tracer 1.6 Litre from Rock Auto. Have a set ion my 1200, used 1 mm oversize and adjusted the ring gap to suit - 0.6 mm (0.024"). Working well. Check these out. Standard size is 75.0 bore, there is also 0.5 mm and 1.0 mm oversize. Ring thickness is 1.2/1.2/2.5 mm (top/middle/oil scraper). Enginetech rings are made by Hastings I was told.

ENGINETECH Ring set - 1.pdfENGINETECH Ring set - 2.pdf

His is a 1000, not 1200. Look for Hastings rings 6116 but it seems these are standard 72.00 size only.
https://apacatalog.com/HastingsCatalog/ ... .8,1.5,1.5

[Haleydr82]

Thanks for the advice all! I probably could have saved some money, but ended up finding NOS for the GL1000 oversized rings on eBay.

Hopefully, these rings work out. If not I'll have to get creative.

[wingrider]

Don’t get to creative…contact that company I linked….probably your cheapest option.

[Haleydr82]

Good afternoon all!

It's been a little over a month since my last post, I've been focused on a few other things but finally getting back around to start the rebuild of this motor.

I was able to find OS rings on Ebay, and they seem to be a good fit. The crankshaft and cylinder block halves have been looked over and given a clean bill of health. The right hand case is fully cleaned and cylinders lightly honed, and I'm ready to start putting it together.

If you decide to build one out of two, use the 79 geartrain and selector forks as there are improvements over the earlier engine.

Based on 'Old Fogey's' feedback above, I plan on using as much of the geartrain and transmission parts from the '79 as possible.

One question I do have is with the gear drum, specifically whether or not I can use the '79 gear drum without any issues. They are very similar but have slight differences.

This is the original gear drum from '76:




And the drum from the '79:




It seems like the primary difference is at the side that extends into the front cover. There is a third ring at the head of the drum. I'm not sure if this will cause issues with incompatible shift components and want to make sure I don't have to reopen this case after it is sealed.

Thanks in advance!

[Old Fogey]

The difference is in the neutral stopper arm. Use the 79 selector drum and all the 79 mounting components for that arm and you will be fine.

[Haleydr82]

The difference is in the neutral stopper arm. Use the 79 selector drum and all the components for that arm and you will be fine.

Thanks! I really appreciate your knowledge and how quick you are to respond!

[robin1731]

Oversized rings? Do you have oversized pistons?

[Haleydr82]

Oversized rings? Do you have oversized pistons?

Yes, the PO must have had the cylinders bored .30 over.

[Haleydr82]

Quick question for you all.

I'm putting together the right side of the case with the gearbox components from the '79. I'm at a point where I have the main and counter shafts installed, and the crankshaft laying on the bearings.

My expectation was that I should be able to turn the main drive shaft and shift through the gears smoothly, but what I am seeing is that I can give it about a half turn, and then it appears to bind up. I'll try to post a video below.

My question to you all is, is this expected behavior? Or, should I be able to turn the shaft and gears smoothly?

Thanks in advance!



EDIT:

So, I just came across the below video on wingovations.com, and this video shows what I would have expected (gears shift smoothly and both shafts spin freely). Clearly, something is wrong. I'll have to closely inspect both the counter and main shafts to make sure they are put together properly. Unfortunately, I don't know much about the '79 engine and if it was ever running properly. Any thoughts or idea on what to check is greatly appreciated!

[Haleydr82]

I meant to post this last night, but looks like for some reason it didn't get submitted.

I was able to figure out what the issue was after taking the components apart. I noticed that the end cap on the countershaft wasn't sitting completely flush with the block, so it prompted me to review the gears on the countershaft.

I remember that while initially installing the countershaft yesterday, the last two gears had fallen off and I had to slip them back on. I must have put the second to last gear in backward, which pushed the gears out of alignment (that gear has a 'bump' in the center).

So, after correcting this mistake and putting everything back together, the gear train spins smoothly and shifts as expected. I'll post the video below for anybody curious.

[Haleydr82]

Hello all!

I've been making slow progress and finally joined the case halves yesterday. Just had a quick question before I go much further.

I noticed that on the '76 crankshaft, there is a ' cog' attached to the rear and only a collar on the '79. Can anybody explain what the difference between the two is? I can take pictures if needed.

I'm curious to see if I should stick with the standard '76 components or use the later.

Thanks in advance!

[robin1731]

Without me digging in to it that may be for the kick starter. 76 would have had it but not 79.

[Haleydr82]

Without me digging in to it that may be for the kick starter. 76 would have had it but not 79.

That must be it! Thank you for the quick response!

[Haleydr82]

Hello all!

So, I think I have found a problem and may need to take the case apart again.

I just noticed that pistons 2 and 4 both have an 'IN' marked on the piston head, but the marking is down towards the exhaust valves. Pistons 1 and 3 don't appear to have these markings at all.

When I installed the pistons, I ensured that the oil passages in the connecting rods were facing up, but took the piston orientation for granted (the pistons were already installed in the connecting rods).

By the naked eye, the piston appears to be symmetrical but I'm concerned that this may not be the case and would like to avoid hitting the valves. Can anybody out there confirm that the top and bottom of the piston are exactly the same, or am I going to need to split this case again?

Thanks in advance!

Edit: per the Clymer manual, the pistons are symmetrical and orientation does not matter. Crisis averted!!!