Float bowl gages

[77Gowing]

ok, I bought two float bowl gages from Randdak's, one for my gl1000, that currently runs great so I did nit really need it. The second one is for the 1100. Problem is, ive not seen any info or pictures how to use the gauges. And what specifically what to do if my measurements are off.
Can anyone provide the necessary details.
Furthermore, I just got an 1100 master carb kit from Randdaks, packaged nicely, most of the little baggies are self explanitory. But there are several smaller bags with seals I have no clue about. This sets my paralysis by analysis mind a spinning and puts a bit of fear in me to even begin. None of the part bags are labeled which I think is bad form. But some are, obvious.
Ill watch the GL1000 video again, read the rebuild book replete with un referenced photos of who know what. Publishing & proofing obviously is not Mr. Halase strong suit, but in large part his info is good. The photos are unclear.

First set Ill tackle will be my 84 1200 as me thinks a couple of float valves are leaking & thining the fuel.

Any help at all to fill in a few holes for me would be appreciated.

Kenny

[Track T 2411]

Check out this link in ShopTalk for the 1100 carbs... viewtopic.php?t=12168
Roady goes through Randakk's kit to explain which baggies go where, has step- by- step pictures and instructions on checking and setting the floats, and much, much more. There are a few additional tidbits farther along in the thread, also, IIRC. And of course, you can always post additional questions...

Edit: Much of the info in Roady's thread also applies to the 1000, and Octane also has a thread on the 1000 carbs in ShopTalk.

[77Gowing]

Thank you so much Track T,
Reviewing this was a big boost to my confidence.
I have never book marked anything here before, but what a God send it is. I'm confident I can do this now. But not without continual reference to these links and Reading TfM!
Several times. Lol

[robin1731]

All the info you asked about can also be found on Radakks site.

.

[rjdoles]

ok, I bought two float bowl gages from Randdak's, one for my gl1000, that currently runs great so I did nit really need it. The second one is for the 1100. Problem is, ive not seen any info or pictures how to use the gauges. And what specifically what to do if my measurements are off.
Can anyone provide the necessary details.
Furthermore, I just got an 1100 master carb kit from Randdaks, packaged nicely, most of the little baggies are self explanitory. But there are several smaller bags with seals I have no clue about. This sets my paralysis by analysis mind a spinning and puts a bit of fear in me to even begin. None of the part bags are labeled which I think is bad form. But some are, obvious.
Ill watch the GL1000 video again, read the rebuild book replete with un referenced photos of who know what. Publishing & proofing obviously is not Mr. Halase strong suit, but in large part his info is good. The photos are unclear.

First set Ill tackle will be my 84 1200 as me thinks a couple of float valves are leaking & thining the fuel.

Any help at all to fill in a few holes for me would be appreciated.

Kenny

I brought home a 77 that was a barn find so I knew that a carb rebuild was almost a given. I fixed everything else first before starting on the carbs because I also was a little intimidated. I have rebuilt dozens of automotive and motorcycle carbs but all these jets and o-rings that came with the rebuild kit had me concerned. After rebuilding them the first time the bike ran better at some throttle settings and worse at others. This is my first Goldwing so I went from knowing nothing about them to knowing enough to be dangerous in a couple months. Once I discovered the Randakks article on rebuilding the carbs and following it step by step my luck changed.

When I read the comment that float levels were critical I removed the carbs again. I have a vernier caliper that can be used as a depth gauge. I set it to 21 mm and checked the height at all four corners of each float to the body of the carb. It was a little tricky because you have to tilt the carb so that the float just contacts the spring on the needle and does not compress it. They were not off that far but each carb was a little different and that is a problem. After making those adjustment the bike ran much better. Having done it once I am not afraid to pull them off to do something to them and the time it takes to remove them is much less as you get better at it.

Hopefully you will find that the rebuild is not that bad once you get started.

[77Gowing]

Thanks for the encouragement. I try to take things as they come but here lately all is "FUBAR"ed. My net is down due to a faulty new cable/modem/router from Netgear. They overnighted a new one, it half way works and the monkies at my ISP cant seem to remember my MAC address long enough to configure the connection. Next my CP is acting up, and the hard drive gave up the ghost on my laptop. Technologically speaking I kaint get a break today. So, I'm just gonna set awhile and read something to soothe my nerves like War & Peace. Lol
I have 3 sets of 1100 carbs, one is seized, so I will start by gingerly taking it down in pairs like Randdak says. I figure if I practice on this one I should be alright. All else fails, I'll contract with one of the sponsors fer a rebuild. I aint touching my carb set from pistol petes on my gl1000. It runs great and...it aint broke. Now why did I buy a float gage for a gl1000 knowing this? Doah?
The pics of gage usage on randdaks site are not good via phone so will take a gander of em on a big screen.
Its all foreign territory for me.
The valve adjusting and ignition setting prior to tuning the carbs makes a bunch of sense as does setting the mixture screws by turn counts. Ive a problem with my 84, she runs on solid on 2 cylinderz, barely fires on a 3rd and not at all on a fourth. Compression is low on the barely fireing and the not at all. Its a 1200 and from what Ive read there is no timing to set.
BUT, this is all armchair wrenching at the moment. Got to check the oil leak tomorrow on the 84, is likely the valve cover gaskets & grommets. Then I need to pull the 1200 carbs cause Im sure a needle & seat is leaking since the fuel pump runs & runs & never shuts off. I did not find anything about setting 1200 float heith, will look it up & see.

Ill be back, thanks guys.