Choke Lever Spring Part Number - Wrong Part NAME

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Does anybody have a stock number, or know where to get - - the spring that goes under the L-shaped lever for the choke assembly for a 755A carburetor? Mine has come unwound and is really loose; it keeps "springing" off it's lever, and I was wondering if they are hard to find or if you can still purchase them.

The parts diagram shows the spring, but has no nomenclature/number for it - - or is there a way to rewind it that I'm missing?


The diagram only lists #13 - Pin, Cotter - and that's not it.

[Whiskerfish]

Striking out here.

[pidjones]

I know that I've seen one of the carb rebuilders (probably Randakk or Nixon) post a great photo of how this spring is to be wound. I suggest searching their sites.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Can anybody post a pic of how that lever is supposed to be mounted on a '75 GL1000? I can probably rewind the spring, but I'm a little confused as to where and how it should go...specifically, how Tight should that spring be wound? It's wound around the post three times right now, but still looks pretty loose. It does have some tension on it, but seems like it could be wound one more time, but would that be too tight? A pic of the spring in it's proper position would be great.

What exactly does that arm do? It doesn't look like its connected to anything - nothing turns/opens/closes in the carb when it's activated/rotated....

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Okay, I need some clarification here - - after doing a lot more research on this part, I think I have the wrong NAME for it - it's not the Choke Lever Spring - - the pic I saw calls it the 'Fast Idle Cam Arm'; the spring I'm having questions about is the spring under that piece....what does that part do? I assume because of the name it plays a part in the idle...Sorry about the confusion, but it's not identified in the parts diagram.

Does anybody have a pic of how it's supposed to go/look, and/or a spare they'd be willing to part with? How tight should it be?

[Track T 2411]

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I'm not sure if these pics will help... 769A carbs. The top photo is the lever that activates the high idle and is mounted on the plenum. The spring has three coils on this example.
The other two pics are of the choke mechanism itself, on the number four carb. It has four coils; the one on the number three carb has five coils...
Hope this helps!
I can try to get better pics of needed...

[Chainman]

Some more

[pidjones]

The fazt idle cam arm rides on the fast idle cam and lifts the throttle slightly when the choke is fully actuated to provide a faster idle on starup. The spring mainly keeps it in position and from fouling other linkages.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Chainman that's exactly what I was looking for...! Mine looks just like that, but I was worried that it was too loose; apparently not, which is good to know. FYI I have 755A carbs, bike production date of 5/75.

All things being equal, I'm getting pretty stoked - the carbs are clean an ready to go back in, the rear brakes are clean/prepped and in place, I just need to replace the front pistons (pitted) and reinstall them...still have a long way to go but it's getting there.

Thanks for the pics!

[pidjones]

Please don't be discouraged if you have to pull the carbs a couple more times to get them right. It happens. BTW, make sure to put a good inline filter in. Even with clean, freshly lined tanks there will be stuff that will clog the tiny jets in the carbs. Also, check that your float valves are working with gasoline or my favorite, isopropyl alcohol before installing them.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

On the contrary, I expect that - I'm going use alcohol to bench-test for flow, make sure everything is doing what it should...just off the top of my head, do you have to manually adjust them somehow to leave a little gap in the butterflies in the carb throat like you have to do with a KZ650? Or is that what the little 'spritzer-post' in there does - adds a little shot of gasoline to get the bike going?

I didn't see anything in the manual about bench-setting them...and as long as they aren't as persnickety as Virago carbs, which have to be adjusted ON the bike while the bike is RUNNING, I should be okay. But I always expect problems with carbs. They are, as a friend of mine once said, a Dark Art. At least GL1000 carbs are easy to get to.

[pidjones]

Set the butterflys (bench sync) just about half covering the first hole you see on each. The little post is low speed fuel also, and you should check that it flows by placing carb cleaner straw/squirt bottle tip (your favorite method of applying pressurized fluid) to the bottom side of it. A guitar string is good for opening the nozzle if plugged.