Lower Steering Bearing

[codyjames707]

Hey everyone! I was putting new steering bearings in on my 1977 Gl1000 and while I'm sure most of you know what a pain the lower bearing sleeve is to get out, I noticed a gap when putting the new one in.

When trying to press the lower bearing sleeve into the steering neck, their seemed to be a gap of 3-5 mm that it couldn't reach. I even put the sleeve in the freezer before trying to put it in.

I couldn't remember if the original had this spacing, and couldn't find any reliable images of it either.. So the big question is; is this normal??

Image of the gap:

20190107_202548.jpg

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[pjlogue]

It should be flush. Drive the new bearing out carefully and check the seat for debris or a nick/burr. You can use a dremel and stone to remove any burrs.

-P.

[pidjones]

I seem to remember a gap on mine that permitted my tool to catch the old one for driving it out.

[tomk1960]

That steering race should definitely be flush. If it isn't cockeyed in the opening, you can probably drive it in the rest of the way with an old race.

The top edge sticks out beyond that stop, so that it can be removed again in the future. For under $40 shipped, (Amazon) a tool like the one pictured below will forever eliminate any anxiety you have in regards to race removal. It takes what could be a disaster and turns it in to an easy process that takes less than 5 minutes.

[Oldewing]

Plus One on the above wonder tool, got it and it works great...

[ericheath]

I believe you’re good. Check out the pics from Shoptalk by Old Fogey’s writeup. Looks like yours. As I recall there’s a double step, one to seat the race against and the other is there so you can get a purchase on the old race to get it out.

[codyjames707]

Huh, I seem to be getting mixed answers from another forum as well. But I think this may actually be correct.
I got a few people saying yes, and a few saying no.
But this may be correct to allow someone to change the racer out with a tool since the lip doesn't extend outwards or anything for a regular tool to knock it out like the top racer.

Sound correct?

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[ericheath]

Good reading and advice : https://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/shucking.html

[low-side]

Cup absolutely needs to be up against a shoulder. If there is a double shoulder you are ok, but I've never seen that before. If you're not against a shoulder, the cup will seat in operation and you will have so much clearance that the stem may cock and bind, locking up the fork at speed. I would make absolutely certain that it is up against a shoulder.

[codyjames707]

Cup absolutely needs to be up against a shoulder. If there is a double shoulder you are ok, but I've never seen that before. If you're not against a shoulder, the cup will seat in operation and you will have so much clearance that the stem may cock and bind, locking up the fork at speed. I would make absolutely certain that it is up against a shoulder.

I've honestly gotten answers from both sides saying that this IS and ISN'T normal. Needless to say, I am just as CONFUSED! Haha.

A main response I would have for the racer going all the way up would be to have to ask, how would you get it out then? Because the bottom racer doesn't extend even a millimeter from the shoulder. With it being that flush, I wouldnt know how it would even come out...

[Don R]

I've done a few and never left one that wasn't seated, it will stick out past the ID of the tube. If it didn't you can use a die grinder next time to relieve the neck tube to allow the race to be removed. The first big bump you hit will seat it then the bearing will have play in it.

[low-side]

As Don says, the cup should hang over the shoulder slightly and if you want more than that you can carefully remove the cup and cut a couple small notches in the shoulder 180 apart from each other to make removal easier. If that gap we're normal, why provide a shoulder at all?

[ericheath]

Here is a pic from California Wingnut from Ol Fogeys post. It shows a similar gap from a less clean bike with old race in place.

It is not in my manual but there are two shoulders. One is not visible in the pics, but the bearing seats against it. The gap is there and a second shoulder so you can get a tool on the top edge of the race when removing it.

E441377F-B1C4-49B6-9E9E-D1A2AABE83EA.png

My 77 has this, and my 77 with 1200 triple trees has this. I remember the first time I did it, I put my finger in and thought the same thing. Per the post in Shoptalk, 75-76 are a different size. Might not have this anomaly.

[ericheath]

Several good photos here and comments backing up that there are two steps (shoulders) there.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33145

First is a 77, second is a 78.

F0A6F9B1-1FD1-4161-AA12-9F0C039F132B.jpeg

7B1A13ED-831B-4838-802E-DAB29B0D61B8.jpeg

[codyjames707]

Several good photos here and comments backing up that there are two steps (shoulders) there.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33145

First is a 77, second is a 78.
F0A6F9B1-1FD1-4161-AA12-9F0C039F132B.jpeg7B1A13ED-831B-4838-802E-DAB29B0D61B8.jpeg

You're the man! Thank you for putting to ease my paranoid mind!


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