5speed wrote:Andy..jack the front of the bike up until the weight is off the front wheel.
That was my next thought. But then I thought, he surely has a jack or something under the bike to take the load off the front end.
.
I hope it is jacked!
But at the same time, the original spring would have fly out and hit the roof if he removed the upper cap with the forks compressed!
1982 GL 1100
1980 GL 1100 to be fix
1983 Honda Nighthawk 650 sold
1982 Honda CB 750 K under construction
1980 Suzuki A100
1974 Suzuki TS 250 sold
1992 Yamaha RT 180 sold
1976 Honda CB125 sold
2002 Suzuki Katana 750 sold
1983 Suzuki GS770 rusting in a shed
1982 Suzuki GS750 in boxes
5speed wrote:Andy..jack the front of the bike up until the weight is off the front wheel.
That was my next thought. But then I thought, he surely has a jack or something under the bike to take the load off the front end.
.
I hope it is jacked!
But at the same time, the original spring would have fly out and hit the roof if he removed the upper cap with the forks compressed!
I tried all of what you guys suggested. The only 2 things I can think of is..
* Kink in the fork leg at the point the spring stops.
* Diameter of new spring is too wide. Wirth say its within tolerance.
Oh, and if i leave the bike on the side stand and take the caps off (one side at a time) the forks with the original spring in they only pop up about an inch
Did you measure both the stock springs and the new ones to see if they are the same diameter? I.D. and O.D. What about the length? It would have to be a very bad "kink" for the springs not to go in.
And really they should be on the center stand with weight off of the front end to do this. On the side stand there will be some weight on them even one at a time. Even on the center stand if you don't put a jack under the engine and take all the load off the front end.
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1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
The 1100 forks are a larger diameter than the 1000, and IMHO, it would be best (and easiest) to stay with 1100 forks. To use 1000 forks, you would need to change the triple tree, as well. All years of 1100 forks will fit your wheel, but only the '83 forks have the anti-dive feature.
"I have no special talent. I am only passionately curious." - Albert Einstein
"He that is good with a hammer tends to think everything is a nail" - Abraham Maslow
"If you can't take the time to do it right the first time, how are you ever going to find the time to do it over?" -Unknown
In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson! New2U Bike? Read Me.
Track T 2411 wrote:The 1100 forks are a larger diameter than the 1000, and IMHO, it would be best (and easiest) to stay with 1100 forks. To use 1000 forks, you would need to change the triple tree, as well. All years of 1100 forks will fit your wheel, but only the '83 forks have the anti-dive feature.
I hate the antidive, it looks bad and it probably doesnt work>
Track T 2411 wrote:The 1100 forks are a larger diameter than the 1000, and IMHO, it would be best (and easiest) to stay with 1100 forks. To use 1000 forks, you would need to change the triple tree, as well. All years of 1100 forks will fit your wheel, but only the '83 forks have the anti-dive feature.
I hate the antidive, it looks bad and it probably doesnt work>
I guess " Like " is in the eye of the beholder. I have it on my 78......and it DOES work.....very well
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
I didn't think I would like it, but now that I have one with it and one without it, I like it a lot and don't like the feeling of no anti-dive at all on my 77. It makes me think I'm going over the bars on hasty stops. It is a pretty simple mechanism that operates it and with occasional cleaning works well.
Whatever I suggest here should be given ample time for a moderator to delicately correct. I apologize in advance.
77 WING, 1200 engine with 77 heads, cams, gl1100 foot pegs, Magna V65 front end, 764A carbs, [-gone Suzuki M109 monoshock--, replaced with gl1100 shocks] gl 1200 swing arm, gl1500 final drive, wheel and rear brakes Valkyrie seat, Meanstreak tank, Sportster pipes, Power Arc ignition off crank.
77 Wing. black
83 Wing, in pieces
"Continuing education is important even if the subject matter is fairly useless (as in this case)."---Greg Foresi
I wish I had it on my 78. Going aggressively into a corner with the front end compressed from braking sucks. I have found on these that I often have to give it a throttle blip just to set the suspension after braking before I enter.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1984 GL1200 Standard
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
I don't use resistors. Just get an electronic flasher that works with LED's. Any auto parts store should have them.
.
1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
UK_Andy wrote:Iv bought LED indicators for my bike, can anyone point me in the direction of the correct resistors to use please?
Get an 3-prong LED flasher, ~$10 on Amazon. Adding resistors sort of defeats the purpose of going with LEDs. I swapped to LEDs to lower the amp-draw, but adding resistors will raise your amp-draw back to what it was with incandescents... and they are more of a PITA to install.