GL1100 with throttle bodies (Fuel Injection)

[socrace]

aussiewingman, I'm going to say that stroke length doesn't relate much to spark advance, it's just used by ecu tuning programs to estimate fuel only. In fact, I don't know of much out there available to estimate spark, except experience-trial-error.
fish, I like a basic single throttle system, although most motorcycle oems seem to use multiple throttles. From what I've read, megasquirt reads MAP every 500 milliseconds or so, and it's not read in sync with the crank rotation, so need to dampen the signal like when using an analog vacuum gauge.

[gswoo]

Thank you all for all the information on this.

Does anyone know why honda stopped putting EFI on the goldwings after the short run in the 80s until later?
Did they have problems with them?

[aussiewingman]

ok i think the reason from what i've read is that injection was still experimental with motorcycles, and i think the carbie company that honda used for the wing was bought by honda in the early eighties and supply became more ecomonical... i maybe wrong...

[socrace]

Unlike cars, EPA motorcycle engine emissions standards in the US and California did not change at all from about 1980 thru 2005. I'm pretty sure that's right. So carbs were probably cheaper and worked well enough during all those 25 years.

[JBz]

aussiewingman, not familiar with the term "stroke journey"? If relates to Ford edis, then needs a crank trigger wheel, which am not using now.
Been trying to fit a wheel and sensor on the front of the wing motor, but there's not much room to work with there. Currently thinking of mounting a standard hall sensor 90 deg to the plane of the trigger wheel, saw this used recently on some VW type 1 efi conversions, is very compact and supposedly works ok.

Hi Sorace. This may be old but I got the efi 86 ltd engine from Dave. Anyway there is a 8 tooth trigger wheel sandwiched in between the timing bely pullys about 3 inch diameter that triggers a vfr. Eventually i plan on machining a 36-1 trigger for it for the edis. Also it has 2 triggers< pulse generators or whatever> on the back of the right cam. I think these are at TDC Thought id let ya know. JB

[socrace]

Hi JB,
Thanks for that info, and yes, that's probably the best way to do it.
Not sure the original GL1200 crank sensor system is able to fit the earlier engines, mainly due to lack of room. I did buy a small hall sensor and trigger wheel to mount in a similar way. But, by the time got around to mounting it, was already summer and decided to do some riding instead! Maybe this fall?

[Jeff K]

I have a couple of DTA pro8's laying around from other projects. Might be worth giving this a shot. Started looking for a manifold, I might be looking for a manifold for a while. I was thinking about putting a supercharger on my project, I'm just having a tough time letting go with more cash than I paid for the bike for a blower.
This seems like it's right up my alley.

Can you give some info on that ford IAC? I've been looking for one for my Valkyrie but the EMU I use needs a pwm valve not a stepper. I never could find one that was easy to adapt.

[socrace]

The IAC is from a '92 Ford Mustang 5.0. The bracket it's mounted on is just some scrap aluminum with 2 holes drilled to hold the air fittings. I'm running it at 150 Htz, seems to work well at that setting.

[socrace]

Thought I would do on update on the project, in case anyone gets this far and is wondering how things turned out over the long haul.

About the only significant issue is that my original location for the coolant temp sensor did not work out as well as I had hoped.

To summarize, had mounted a VDO temp sensor in the fan thermo switch location and used the ecu to control the fan. This left the stock temp gauge unchanged as a backup to the digital readout from the ecu.

The problem with this was that the fan switch is mounted in the thermostat cover, which is on the cold side of the thermostat. So the temp sensor does not "see" the coolant temp until the thermostat opens. This works ok during hot summer months, but in colder weather it takes the sensor a long time to warm to the same temp as the engine. When idling or when running hot, the thermostat opens and the temp location works well, but when cruising during cold weather, the sensor can be as much as 20 degF colder than the engine.

Solved this by converting to using the stock Honda gauge sender as the coolant temp sender (which is located on the hot side of the thermostat). The Honda Shop Manual for the '81 GL1100 has sensor temp-resistance measurements that are nicely distributed and have turned out to be very accurate.

To get some gauge function back, am using the VDO sensor in the "cold" location with a 100 ohm resister in parallel with it to adjust for calibration differences. The stock gauge with the VOD sensor is still as accurate as ever for overheat conditions (like idling) and the 20 deg error while cruising on cold days is not really very noticeable.

[Casper]

Thanks sorace, your input, and thread has helped me.

Cheers,

[JBz]

Hi Bob would a regular 1bar map sensor off a GM car or truck work fine or should I find a 3bar mP sensor. Im going Microsquirt . Thanks JB

Update. I found the answer. Ibar is ok but another ? I believe you used 4 individual hoses connected to the inboard nipples on the intakes for your MAP vacuum. From the factory ! and 3 and 2and 4 are connected by a plastic T there. Would it be a problem to run it off the 2 tees or can I even pull vacuum for the MAP of the bottom floor of the main intake manifold. Thanks JB

[socrace]

Hi jbz,

Yes 1 bar MAP is what I'm using.

I ran 4 equal length vacuum hoses to read MAP, mainly because one of my tees was missing and the hoses were looking pretty bad anyway so I just redid the whole thing the way I thought made sense. All I can say is, if I had it to do over, would probably do it the same way!

Btw, I acquired a microsquirt a few months back and will probably try to install it over the winter, so will be following your progress!

My microsquirt plan is to control both fuel and spark by using the two reluctance sensor readers built-in to the microsquirt to read the stock Honda pickups. The advantage of this will be no need to add any other kind of crank or cam sensor. Will just have to force the Honda mechanical advancer to full advance (plus maybe 10 degrees past) and block it there to make it work, hopefully. Will need to make sure 10 degrees is enough "time" for microsquirt to do all it's calculations, then fire off the coils (using the stock Honda ignitors). We'll see..

[JBz]

Thanks Bob . My microsquirt should be here any day. Ordered it Friday. My engine is a little different than Yours. Mine is a 85 gl1200 LTD FI engine Never heard it run. It has the 8 wheel trigger on the crank with one vr and 2 vr sensors on the right cam Ill just be using one of these vrs on the cam according to Diyautotune. Im basically a mechanical type gearhead and this electronic stuff is going to be a REAL challenge. .Probably be asking more ?? of Ya if that's Kool?????............jb

[socrace]

No problem, with my answering questions!
The ltd has a 1 tooth wheel on the cam (with 1 sensor) and a 8 tooth wheel on the crank (with 2 sensors spaced 180 deg).
I think microsquirt can work with that, by using 1 cam sensor and 1 crank sensor. I think the so-called "extra" code can handle it.
I don't see how it can possibly work with just a cam sensor by itself, though, with only 1 tooth on the wheel.

[irishcarbomb]

Careful with the microsquirt and your 4 coil setup...you'll need a quadspark driver to make that work..

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/quad ... p-481.html

The microsqurit only supports two coil outputs, or four(i guess maybe more) on wasted spark. Also its a pwm only idle control.