Need to replace the head gasket GL1100

[dvcruz]

My '83 interstate is blowing white smoke out the right exhaust. The bike sat for 15 years before I spent 3 months restoring it (about 500 miles ago). It (the smoke) has been getting progressively worse the more I ride it. A few nights ago I pulled the number 3 plug and coolant blew out of the cyl when I cranked the engine. Hmmmm....
I'm thinking I can drain the coolant, remove the timing belt, exhaust pipe and fuel pump, and then remove the head. Put in some new oil plug o-rings and a new head gasket and be done.
My question is, is there a particular position I should or shouldn't have the timing belts at when I remove the head? I'm wondering about the valve being under compression and something moving out of place once I start pulling the heads off? should I be at TDC or just mark the teeth position real good before starting?
Seems like an easy job to do without removing too many parts, or am I missing something?
Thanks all.
dvc

[sunnbobb]

Moved to Tech forum.

[sunnbobb]

Either of the methods you suggest would work fine. TDC AND marking the flywheels would not hurt. Probably replace the belts while yo are at it, and I would suggest doing both heads while you are at it.

[robin1731]

Hopefully you have a manual. I think there may be one on here someplace. I don't remember. I know if you do a search here you'll find all the info you need. Even more really.

[jdvorchak]

When ever I do work like that I always like to put the #1 cyl on Top Dead Center. Just less confusing that way.

[Old Fogey]

When ever I do work like that I always like to put the #1 cyl on Top Dead Center. Just less confusing that way.

X 2 !

[Hoosier Daddy]

Don't forget the o-rings for the coolant pipe on top of the head if you leave the ebow on, or a gasket for the elbow if you take it off.
Put #1 on TDC, T-1 mark on the flywheel and orient yourself with all the timing maks for the pulleys. If I remeber correctly the the right side may want to snap back once the timing belt is removed but if it does it is because of the valve springs wanting to close the valves, or pull them away from the pistons. Have your spanner (wrench) on the cam sprocket bolt and slowly release the tension when you remove the belt.
Seems to me the manual stated to put it at T-1 then rotate it 90 degrees, that way ALL pistons are half way down the cylinders and there is no chance of clashing... Check out the "Shop Talk" section, I know there is a How-to there.

[dvcruz]

Thanks all. I replaced the belts a couple months ago and have already ordered new o-rings and gaskets for the coolant system. I have a manual and I remember how the right side head "snapped" on me when I removed the old belts. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something simple or obvious and knew you guys have probable already been there and done that. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Roady]

x2 on doing both head gaskets at the same time.

Also take a good long look at your water pump. If it's plastic (bakelite), I would replace it.

[rcmatt007]

I agree. When I did mine I went ahead and changed the belts (if I am going to do that much work, might as well fix the easy stuff at the same time) Having it at TDC just gave me one less thing to think about

[Whiskerfish]

Having that right side cam jump is not a problem at all. Even if a valve does come in contact with a piston there is insufficient force to do any damage. I have had many of them off and so long as it is close on reassembly and you do not force anything you will be fine.
One tip is while you are reinstalling the head I keep a wrench on the end of the cam and make sure it is free to wiggle. That way I know there is no contact while I am torquing things down.

[joedrum]

gee it seems to me i realy do things different ....i would take the plugs out ...sink the pistons halfway down front and back cylinder ....lossen all the valves into the rockers and snug the locknuts ....take the head off .....assuming everything is okay ...put it back on .......turn the cam to the closest spot of being right on timing mark and up possistion on pully ....put the crank in the T1 possition......put the belt on with the valves loose pretty easy to do ....snug up the tensioner and tighten ....do the other side ....and then adjust valves ,,,this gives the best tensioner possition on the belts when not fighting valve springs pressure

[morganfrmn]

I just did a head gasket on the 1100...and it took a day to get the belts back on right.

So if i had it to do over i would do one side at a time... and this would allow the other side to hold the center pulley in place.

Turn the engine using the bolt on the back of the stator. turn it to TDC. Ensure both arrows
on the front of the engine belt pulleys are also lined up.

remove clean and repair the right head, replace with a new head gasket and then reinstall.

Put your belt on and fire it up..


Then when ever you get in the mood do the left side the same way.

[Hoosier Daddy]

morganfrmn: How do you get the "rear" belt off, and more importantly, on the crank pulley without removing the other "front" belt first?

[Old Fogey]

morganfrmn: How do you get the "rear" belt off, and more importantly, on the crank pulley without removing the other "front" belt first?

Hmmmmmmmmm................David Blane could do that!